Nizm0Zed

daydreaming allright...... have you considered how much each option will cost? take the cost, and triple it, thats normal. you also need to work out a timeframe (double that) and wether you can afford to do the project in the time you have given. dont commit all your time and money to it, if you do that, you'll get sick of it quickly and it'll sit in the corner for a long time.

yea, i could probably post a set to you over there, but id rather not, i have pretty limited spare time as it is. if you are 100% stuck, i will help out though.

dunno about girlock and bendix? i thought Girlock was owned by PBR (maybe the other way around) but bendix make pads, not calipers?

my mates and i used to do simple back yard short throw shifters for our various cheap cars. you get 2 sticks (because if you get 1 and use your one, Murphy will destroy it) and cut the little knob off the bottom, then on the other shifter, you cut half the knob and shaft off. Weld the longer peice onto the bottom of the stick you only cut the knob off, and then simply space the quadrant box up higher with a peice (or a few peices)of alloy plate. moving the pivot ball higher than origional accomplishes the shorter throw, but then you just trim the stick down to a suitable length, and re thread for the gearknob.

Hmmm, then id have to sell my other shiny one. Anyone wanna buy a shiny rocker cover so i can buy a shiny turbo one? lol, back on topic. (tony, pm me with a price and pics) edit, yo880 they are definately holden rear calipers, i cant remember if the VT's had a different rear to the earlier stuff, i didnt think they did, but i think its a different pad number. I could tell you if i saw the pad. Im not at work atm, so cant check in my books (i run a parts store)

yea, im in canberra. Geez, the pads in your post are Standard Holden calipers, the Bendix equivalent is DB1086 that should help you to find something with a common number like that. yo880, your calipers look like run of the mill Holden commodore rear calipers. From the VB commodore (1978) up until the VS commodore (1997) they were the same caliper and pad. again, a DB1086 pad http://www.bendix.com.au/ProductCatalogue.aspx?reverse=1&manufacturer=Holden&model=Commodore&Year=Aug-93+-+Aug-97&variant=VS%2c+VR+(All+models)%2c&Hash=089FD40B (i dont know if this link will expire) If the link is no good, go to http://www.bendix.com.au/ProductCatalogue.aspx and either look up a Commodore (VB,VC,VK,VL,VR,VS) or simply punch the DB1085 number into the little window just below the car selection, and pick one of the cars that comes up. if you go that way, you'll notice that they were also fitted to some fords as well, so there maybe a crossover in a stateside car too?

If you can trace the pad, and scan it with a size reference (preferably to scale) then i will look in my brake pad book at work, and give you the info you need.

just remember you need a lot of power and torque to be able to sustain, or increase the speed of a car at high speeds. aerodynamics plays a big part in it, as the car itself has to overcome the sheer drag, and that requires power.

FG = Fibreglass.

i have heard peopel bag the CA before, and usually followed by something along the lines of "the SR20 is a better motor because everyone puts them in their drifters" ie, clueless sheep who dont do thier research. the SR has rockers that are prone to breaking at high RPM it has uneven cylinder spacing, and gets hot spots between cylinders under heavy loading (worked motor, working hard) having a timing chain as opposed to the CA's belt drive, the motor is also inherently noisier. the SR will never rev as hard as a CA BECAUSE it has rockers. the direct shim and bucket arrangement on the CA allows it to be very stable at high RPM. the SR is an Alloy block, so bonus in weight savings, but disadvantage in block strengh, the iron CA block wins that one at a cost of extra weight. yea, bigger capacity is better, so the SR gets that one. and from that making it popular as a swap (more power stock) it has a larger aftermarket following.

M3 huh. and thats a nasty dent. maybe write the bimmer off, and pull the engine and trans, and drop it in a zed? oh, and the minivan? its just cheap soccer mum transport, meh.

I find that hilariously amusing. awesome!!!

no. dont build a NSX. i tried. guess you better do it then huh?

sweet as, cheap cars are fun. hey, seeing as you spent next to nothing on buying it, how hard would it be to convince you to put proper gull wing doors on it? i was reading some thread in the interior section and they mentioned gull wings, and a T top would be the perfect starting platform. you'd only need to make a frame around the door, and up to the top.

are you planning on using the stock ECU from your donor? because if you are, it will make the job VERY easy if you can use the entire body loom, so the instruments, climate control, ECU, everything. basically, what you would want to do, is adapt your lights, steering column switches, and other general body parts, into the S13 loom.

hang on, dont you have a missus? the one that didnt wanna ride in your car? or did you ditch her on the side of the road somewhere?

more pics in my build thread, see my sig.

two words. shopping trolley. 'borrow' them, and hack the top cage off them. then you have a trolley base with wheels on it. maybe use two of them? one under each side?

yea, on first thoughts im gonna say open up the hood a bit, but then nup. it would be way cooler if it all fits under the hood. then you get people thinking, "cool, another awesome zed, could it be any better" then once they see under the bonnet, It'll be "BAM!!! FREAKING AWESOME!!!!" but yea, the angle does look a little funny to me. also, you mentioned that you may redo the lines? If it were me, i would leave the lines all parallel at the main bend around the back of the head, and then open up to meet the spacings on the block. It'll look neater, and transition around the head a bit better. All up though, this is legendary. give it 10 years, and people will be talking about the fabled Twin cam head, 1FastZed's copy, and the handcast 6 throttle intake manifold (and how they should have all been merged in a Z God tribute) Seriously, i see this as epic.

toe is done by winding the tie rods in or out. you should also be able to see tell tale marks on teh tyres, from toe in or toe out. If you have toe in, the OUTSIDE edges of the tyre will feather, as the tyre is dragging on itself. If you have toe out, the INSIDE edges will be feathered,as the tyre is trying to drag away from itself. the wear marks for toe out can be hidden if you have excessive negative camber.

Angus played at my school before he was famous. He's a local boy.

this is all good and well (and i wish you luck in annoying a 20 mile raduis) but have you considered the structural ramifications to your own house?

well, i see that your all smart people (and its a good read, scary i understand it) But seriously, Best answer EVER!!!!! Give this man a Nobel!

so what do the rebels drive? a busted up camaro?

gee, id wanna hope its a joke. this is my first attempt at a turbo manifold. to suit a holden gemini, Or chevette to you yanks. the flange was way too thin, so it warped like nothing else. to anyone wanting to build a manifold, use steam pipe bends, they will support the weight of a turbo, and they wont crack like thin pipe will. also, when your welding your runners on, bolt the flange to a spare head, to stop it from warping. also, allow it to cool completely before joining any runners together, again, to prevent warping. you can even use a stick welder when your using thick pipe like that. i build much better stuff now.