Nizm0Zed

yea yea, i hear ya (btw, im not saying all you yanks are dumb, just poking fun in an aussie way) My criticism's with it, is the starting base. Yes, i know, its the car he had. But if you wanna polish something up pretty, you dont start with a turd, you find a diamond. just seems like if he was really serious, he would be better off using a better base, for a start, diesel over petrol, Or a Hybrid. Or Even a full electric conversion. I know electrics dont have the best range (apparently) but i have seen a backyard setup that went full electric, and had a small generator motor that could sit and run, and charge the batteries, in connection with some solar panels, to keep the charge while the bloke was at work. still burning some fuel, but an absolute pittance in comparison with the original motor. as it is, im seriously thinking about converting my Zed to straight electric, the only issue really holding me back is batteries. they would cost me about $4K for the required setup, and need to be replaced every 5-7 years. there are a few little things that seem like they arent thought through properly though, or done on "internet knowledge" as his grasp of those little bits is incorrect. I know nobody can be an expert on everything, but research can go a long way, no point trying to re invent the wheel.

WTF????? If he's seriously so concerned with the price of fuel that he has to do that, then either convert to electric, or buy a friggin pushbike!!! Just looking at those pics, im sort of wondering if he just built all that stuff permanantly over the original bumper and lights, ect ect, Coz there is a whole lot of weight he could get rid of there. im thinking this bloke is one of the reasons people think americans can be a bit dumb???:grin:

dont forget with your ducting to check for clearance at ALL points of your suspension travel. last thing you'd want is to hit a heavy bump or ripple strip during a corner, and have your duct smash apart into your suspension, brakes or wheel. could cause some serious damage, and maybe even a crash. as for moulding with foam, i use polyurethane foam, and mould straight onto it. you can paint it and then wax it to help it release away form your item. If your careful doing it, you can even reuse it again.

i have a bottle brush with a big long metal twisted wire handle, sort of like a cylinder hone (ball type), I stick it in my drill, and stuff it up the pipe, and it does a decent job of cleaning out any shavings, or loose weld scale. found it at Kmart, for cleaning cups and stuff. about $3 If i wanted to prevent rust (and i wasn't painting or coating inside it) i'd just dip the brush in oil, and run it through, giving it a good coat. Just a thought anyway.

im allways amazed at how stock most V8's look, seems almost like it was a dealer option. And that Corvette one would have made one hell of an option :icon6: I have a before pic, but not much has changed yet, so maybe once i have pulled my finger out huh?

nothing for my zed. but i did get 2 bottles of rum, and a cool as pair of Oakleys. so, maybe i'll get drunk and get some motivation to go work on it??? just recently blew a headgasket, so gotta pull it down.

prices vary, pending on build quality, age, kms travelled(miles in your case), materials, eg steam pipe, stainless thin wall, or mild thin wall. as a rough estimate, a mate who makes them tells people that as a rough estimate, he charges $100 per runner (australian dollar) shop around, and be patient, if you wait long enough, what you want will come to you.

*E-Hug* Good luck with it. I'll be thinking of you tonight when i get into my bottle of rum.

lol, ive spent about $1500 on my zed, plus about another $1000 on the stereo. But i picked the 5th option, coz i was watching the dave chapelle show the other night, and found it soo damn funny (crack dealer in court, pleading the 5th) By the time its finished, i am estimating that i'll have spent about $45,000 on it. and we all know how budgets tend to balloon out. Perhaps i should just sell my kidneys now and pay someone to do it??

let me guess, you were contemplating it when a riced out Honda bounced past, and it came to you....... Cable ties.:mrgreen:

I have a CAM201 (car audio masters) alarm unit fitted in my car, Im sure you could find a similar unit over stateside. Its a 2 point immobiliser alarm and it interfaces directly with the central locking solenoids in each door, and will control a boot popper, that in itself was a bit of a pain to do, as i had to pretty much redesign and rebuild the boot latch assembly with parts form a different car, so i could delete the boot lock, and have the cable and latch on the rear tail light panel, instead of the hatch. i can either pop the boot with a button in the glovebox, or with the second button on the remote. the boot hatch switch was a bit of a pain though, had to fab up a small contact switch to work with it, there isnt really anywhere in the rear hatch to mount a pin switch without creating leaks or a potential rust spot, and zed's have enough of those. The alarm siren itself is a battery backup unit, with built in shock sensor, mounted in the plenum chamber under the windscreen, for maximum noise. there is a glass break sensor inside the cabin, and its interfaced into the standard door pin wiring, with a built in courtesy light dimmer and timer. the whole thing cost me about $220 aus. so in the grand scheme of alarms, a bit over entry level looking at the decent systems. I can add in a power window lifter module if i want too. it also has several programmable functions, like auto arming, or silent arm/disarm ect ect. It keeps the indicators on for 15 seconds after arming or disarming for added illumination in dark areas. Installation was pretty easy, all the wires are marked with little tabs, but once you have wired it all, and removed the tabs, its a full black wire setup. took me the better part of a day to do it. the central locking was a bit of a pain, as there is next to no room at all under the door skins, without fouling on the window lifter mechanism. Definitely look for a black wire system, and the more points of immobilization the better (not gonna tell you where mine are:mrgreen:), check with your insurance too, my premiums are lower now its fitted. some will interface directly with central locking poppers, some require a standalone central locking module, and just tell it to open or close, the former is better. I have seen a cheap standalone central locking module that would pop the locks if it was power surged, so ground a wire to the body a few times to surge the power system, and it'd pop the locks open. make sure you definately get a battery backup siren, mine will go for about 3 hours disconnected from the car (learned the hard way:cry:). I allways prefer to install my own alarm, as then i can hide things where i want, makes it harder to bypass.

I like technic lego. But i usually get carried away and end up spending several hours building some big fat truck. then i remember what i was supposed to be doing, and start again, but by then, i have allready lost interest in it, and put it down for another day.

i got a bare manifold posted form brizzy to canberra for $15 I dont see how he's going to claim postage is $32 unless he's adding in handling fees. if the price goes over $45, i dont think it'd be worth it.

i would imagine they have a roster and start the cars maybe once every month or two. probably only moving them as far as the wash and detail bay, and back again. Would love that job though!!!

Dunno if this has been posted before, but here is a butt load of pics from the Zama warehouse in Japan, home of Nissan's most prized possessions. http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=2079707 (warning for slow connections, LOTS of pics) Yes, i creamed my pants.

it is actually a scientifically proven fact that 99% or straight hetero men cannot differentiate between the colour pink, and salmon. they also have a 'blindness to puce, fuschia, teal, russet, saffron ect ect (btw, that level isn't salmon, salmon is more like the colour of the fish, like when you catch it yourself, skin it man style with a sharpened rock, and cook it dangling form some sticks, while fending off bears with your free hand)

so your raggin on me for having an opinion? or suggesting something? or posing a question that could have been a potential issue to solve?? Fuckit. I'll keep my opinion and ideas to myself. and i'll just build it myself. FYI, there are a surprisingly large amount of innovative ideas (both past AND present) that have originated from Australian sheds, just that most of them get sold to large companies before they gain any recognition. not like being an original American and sticking 26 inch chromies on a busa... [/end rant]

Not very fast, but they will carry a bit of weight. its all in the gearing, usually a worm drive setup. as im sure you can understand, changing the ratio for higher speed would reduce the total load of the motor. a tough compromise to get it right, however the whole runner setup could be pretty light. as for all the different ideas, it'd be awesome if several people make them all in different ways, and we see the pro's and cons of each design.

fark, he's going to be rich on royalties, look at all the manufacturers that have copied his idea:biggrin: yea, so what, its been done by other manufacturers, thats a good thing, means we can learn from their mistakes. I reckon it would be a kickass thing to plan out and build as a one off piece of auto porn for the engine bay of a zed

"Another problem I can see coming is the fact that the runners are going to have to be the same length (at least) as the distance which they can fully extend... or else the runners themselves would not be able to retract into the tube, or it would hit the throttle plates." If your getting that far into the development of it, and it really is looking like a viable option, then i would suggest using a compound design for the runner, say 3? sections. so it'd collapse into (almost)1/3rd of its full length. shame you wouldn't be able to line the inside of the runner with an elastic compound, that'd withstand the stresses of an enginebay, along with the constant stretch and compression. would solve your sealing issues, and any potential flow problems at the slide joints. Q? what about an airbox? would you have seperate airfilters for each runner? or an airbox assembly for it all? then, if there was a box, would it move on the runners too? or just have an outer sleeve that encompasses the whole thing, and 'seals' the telescopic runners inside? that'd solve the sealing issues within the runner itself, and allow you to use one large filter on the front, with a cold air feed directly from the front of the car.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1973-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-coupe-matching-numbers-260Z_W0QQitemZ180189455591QQihZ008QQcategoryZ2030QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ebay Australia. VERY clean 260, going for $16,500 this isn't uncommon around here either

so, basically from what you have mentioned of the Formula 1 days, Ideally on the zed engine (or whatever engine is in there) you would have the 6 runners, all individually controlled (maybe spring loaded to snap back out?) and each one pulled into a set length per RPM position, in the same order as the firing order. all that could be controlled with some circuitry, perhaps a purpose built PIC micro controller with a RPM lookup table in the software, and outputs into controlling seperate motors. In practice, i dont think that theoretical setup would show much power gain at all, once you factor in the weight and complexity of the system, as compared to controlling all the runners as one unit. but i guess you would need a very quick reacting system, if you were to step over say 3 stages (maybe 4?) in the whole powerband, once applied to how fast the engine can rev up, especially in the lower gears. i would imagine in practice, that you would limit the system to only work in the higher gears? and perhaps over a certain RPM? to reduce any lag in the system.

yes you can, nobody is saying that you cant. but what id say people are looking at here, is to keep the straight intake path, which flows way better than a curved track of the same diameter. that, and telescoping runners would look fukn cool when you pop your bonnet for all the ricers to explain why you thrash them everytime.:cool:

the manufacturers have a few reasons for going with those methods, the 2 main ones are cost in production, and more importantly reliability. looking at the 767B setup, sure its an awesome peice of work, but could you really see it lasting through an average manufacturers warranty? without any problems at all? not so much a prob on one of our cars, because 99% of the people here would have no problems with regular maintenance.

i guess you lot must have got a shitload of them over there. you can still find Zed's in decent condition around oz for about the $2000 mark, give or take $1000, but fully restored and immaculate ones (completely standard) are getting $20k modded ones can fetch around the same value too. now i know there is a difference in our currencies, but its not that big, we are getting $1 to your 75-80 or so cents at the moment. i have had people offer me all sorts of things for my 260, and its kinda scrappy looking at the moment