Nizm0Zed

or dont stop.... no, thats probably bad advice.

Ignore the jealous kiwi, all they have over there are flightless birds, and lots of deer. i hear the birds are good eating though. TBH, i hadnt even realised that it is soo damn soon to april 1, hmmm, im gonna have to come up with something good to mess with everyone......

sorry to burst your bubble fellas, but drop bears really DO exist. the rumour that they dont actually exist and were made up, is actually a rumour propogated by aussies to further confuse and scare non-locals. This is taught to all school kids, usually around grade 5-7 when they start going to class camps. national conformity on the matter keeps everyone in line, and the stories straight. i can however tell you that the bunyip is no more (extinct about 200 years ago) but the yowie is still at large.

Well, bit of an upsetting morning for me. I discovered my friend of several years dead in my back yard. Roger, had been mauled by a drop bear. (roger is my pet kangaroo) Normally i let him sleep inside, as it can be a little dangerous at night, he likes (well liked) to roam around and i guess visit the ladies? but many wild roos will get hit by cars at night, or in rarer occasions attacked by other animals. We had heard reports of a drop bear being in our area, but seeing as they are very uncommon, and we hadnt seen much other evidence, we hadnt taken it too seriously. Just in case you fellas dont know, and i wouldn't imagine you would, seeing as its an aussie thing, drop bears are the slang name for feral koala's, once they get a taste for meat they become more dangerous. they allready have pretty decent claws on them anyway, for climbing trees, but tey'll do a lot of damage to animals, and very rarely, people. they are called drop bears, because they wait for their prey to come under the tree they are in, and they drop down on them. well, i had roger for about 12 years now, he was getting old anyway, i havent been able to ride him for a few years as he was starting to develop athritis (thats what the vet said) So normally he'd just laze arond in the yard, eating grass. well, its sad, but i guess maybe its time to get another one? My son is nearly 5 now, so maybe i'll get him a pet one, if we get a joey, he'll be able to ride him to school in a year or so. rip roger, you'll be missed.

awesome pic Monkey, boondock saints rules!!! I have lost count of how many times i have watched that movie.

lolz, and just think about how much we pay for fuel? yea, you paid for this car by proxy

well, thats two of you. 3 more and it'll be half the country jokes fellas, peace from the other side of the ditch!

so, for a test, why not get some heat resistant matting, and wrap your fuel rail in it. Insulate it from the heat, to try an eliminate any fuel boiling issue. If that works, either replace the heat shield, or look for a more permanent insulation method.

my tig is finger control too, and i think its better then messing with a pedal. I know with some of the crazy angles i have had to weld in, a pedal, or even just having to hold my balance on one foot to even consider controlling a pedal would be near impossible.

as long as it is colder than the charge air temp, it'll work. as for how eficciently? dunno. Ideally you would want to run a gas through it, as the gas will run at a much lower temperature than a liquid, excluding if the gas IS in a liquid state. maybe set it up as a A/C core? you should be able to source a small compact compressor, maybe off one of those tiny jap kei cars or a honda goldwing. having such a small core, would only require a small core on the front of the car too. i dont know if those extruded D pipes would handle the pressure though.

in simple terms, yes, to some degree. that hose rated to 250psi burst pressure, will also be rated to -250psi burst pressure. obviously that'd never happen, but thats what the material itself is rated to. If the hose structure isnt capable of holding its own shape under compression (not extension, like when pressurised) it'll collapse, and may require an internal reinforcement, like a nylon tube, or spring.

no worries chief, but, DISCLAIMER! I was drunk when i worte that, so if its doesnt work, dont blame me..... looking at your new design, perhaps tighten up the plenum, so teh wall runs paralell to the runners, upto about half way between teh second and third runners. Looking at that, it seems to be cavitating because there is too much space to fill?

seems like you would be best off to angle the throttle body so the back wall (i guess you'd call it that) is straight, to try and 'aim' the airflow along the back wall of teh plenum, and reduce the low pressure zone, and cavitation just after teh throttle body.

^^^ Would probably work for arab too.......... (too far?)

dave, would a full set of adustable struts fit in your case? I can send you a bigger case if needed

if your looking purely at weights, you will get useless answers. you ideally need an engine that weights as little as possible, has as much torque as possible, and revs as high as possible. Seeing as this mythical engine doesn't exist, unless you can afford a F1 motor, you must compromise between those three main points into a motor that suits your particular application. Also, some more rotoary info. the fuel economy of a 13B is comparable to a 3.9L engine. 20B is comparable to a 5.8L engine 26B is comparable to a 7.8L engine once you go 20B (3 rotor), or 26B (4 rotor) the engines tend to twist themselves apart. the soloution to that is to dowell the block internally, but an external brace could probably be made too, you could also include engine mounts in that brace. If you want a 26B eccentric shaft, you need to get one made. a few workshops do them, one in NZ does them for around the $3000 mark, not including shipping I have heard roumors of a 6 rotor engine, and only ever found one grainy little pic on the net. the engine capacity would be considered to be about 7.8L but the comparable economy would be the same as a 11.7L motor, and it would be very capable of 1000kw without any serious modification. i would imagine it would sound like a VERY angry nest of giant sized hornets. it would more than likely have a very strong torque output, and a wicked power band. it is worth remembering though, the more rotors the engine has (the bigger it is), the less it'll rev.

hahaha. why the hatin on the oz boys??? Maybe its becasue we have cleaner air, safer cities, better employment and wages, free medical care, goverment assisted low income care, better roads, more open (and beautiful) land, hot women everywhere (there are plenty of wilderbeasts too) ect ect ahhh, but i digress about our lucky country, we do have our bad points too. sometimes the beer runs out :icon52: and occasionally (but rarely) the Kiwis beat us at sport, but its usually some crappy sport like sheep herding:lol::lol: besides, where else in the world would it be completely normal to have a prime minister called Kevin?

bloody hell, not another friggin yank!! jokes, its a nice place to live, plenty of opportunity, particularly if you are willing to work for it. there are quite a few people looking for work here, but our rescession isnt as bad as yours (yet) Oh, and our zeds are rarer, and worth more (and cooler )

but camaro guys arent as smart as zed guys, maybe it'll sell :lol:

im sure there is something behind it? it reminds me of the Lotus Blocks, from the old Elans (and others) the block for the 2.0L twin cam was based off the ford Kent motor, but was identified from other Kent blocks with a cast 'L' on the right hand side. Dad tells me that it was allways amusing to see the people who didnt know about that, say that they must have messed up at the foundry, and cast the block back to front, because the 'Left' marking was on the wrong side. perhaps someone in the japanese early zed scene may know?

^^^ I lol'd

M for Magic? M for Mythical? M for Mishmorshion, oh wait, wrong movie.... perhaps its to identify the foundry the block was cast at?

before you get grand ideas of making an AWD mustang, firstly, consider looking under an AWD car on a hoist, or even a FWD car on a hoist. See the way the chassis is designed, to allow room for the driveshafts to come through, and still have enough room for full suspension travel. Also, note the position of the front diff, relative to the bodywork, and the motor itself. On some cars (the GTR) the front diff is built into the sump, because the driveshafts for the front wheels need to be pretty much inline with the middle of the engine block. On the Subaru's, they are only two cylinders long, so the diff and driveshafts is behind the engine and clutch, the motors sit quite far forwards. On many FWD cars that are also AWD (Evo lancer as an example) the motor is east-west config, so the normal driveshaft layout remains but with a rear diff shaft coming off the inner side of the gearbox, that is mounted to one side. Now, your talking about trying to replicate a system that requires a LOT of room, into a chassis that has very limited space between the frame rails, right where you need the space to start with. the 2 feasible options i see in a S30 chassis, is either cut the body shell off, and drop it on a shortened GTR chassis, or build a tube frame chassis and again, drop the body shell over the top of it. either way, your taking about a LOT of money. If you had to pay a workshop to do all the work, i wouldnt expect much change from $300,000 I cant say i have ever bothered to look at a mustang (they dont interest me) but similar RWD V8's have the same basic design, narrow chassis rails, and all the room in the top of the engine bay, for the wider part of the motor.

why try to redesign the wheel?

but the cars allready have a very good weight bias with the stock cast iron block. Replace it with a straight 6 alloy block and you'll allready have an advantage, and still have plenty of torque. Just remember, torque is what makes it fun to drive, not power.