Nizm0Zed

Austrailan Capital Territory. does that count?

Damn right tony, blame the rum! drink one for me!

In Oz it has been made law that throwing ANYTHING at a car is a very serious offence, even if its something trivial like a tennis ball. Its all due to idiots throwing rocks and bricks into oncoming cars from overpasses. several people have been killed in the process. I have had a beer bottle thrown at a car i was in, fortunately? it was a convertible, and it passed straight through the car. It did however just miss the head of one of the passengers. not a fun experience.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2043.0.html have you read this? this is someone here in oz who has replaced their roof with a CF skin lots of pretty pics too.

hey, didnt they ALL come from Japan origionally? so they'd ALL be JDM? (runs away and hides)

lol, loving the redhead comments. but yea, if she's going to the be the type to try and 'conform' you to her mould, walk away. particularly coming into college. remember, college is a time to do drugs, drink lots of alcohol, and have sex with girls that in 20 years time you'll have to pay lots of money for (please dont to the drugs bit) as a more sensible suggestion though, why not take her to a carshow where you know some nice zed's will be, so she can see how cool your car will look once its done. worked with my missus

what size are your fuel lines? eg, if you were going to go buy some rubber hose, would you get 1/4 inch? 7/16ths? 5/8ths? 3/4 inch? efi will run on the smaller lines, but if you want the engine to make lots of power, eg big turbo, lots of boost. then you need fuel lines big enough to supply the fuel needed. generally, i would say 5/8ths minimum for efi. also, remember to change ALL of your rubber hose to EFI spec, and replace all of your hose clamps with screw type ones suitable for EFI use.

oh im not disagreeing with you at all, and if you want good performance, its the way to go. but if its just to look good, and run well enough to enjoy driving, then a non return system could be done.

just throwing this out there, but technically you dont need a fuel return. look at any of the later model jeeps as a good example, i know the 2001+ grand cherokee's do it. in the tank, where the pump picks up the fuel, is a pressure reg, it regulates the line pressure, and dumps the rest into the tank. they were running reliably enough (jeep? reliable?) to deal with 45 degree celcius days here down under. i know there are some aftermarket ECU's that could regulate it, but im sorry, i dont know which ones.

yea, individual lines for the win. some points to note as to why IT WILL WORK. 1. he's testing all the flares as he does them, so quality control is 100%, i doubt there will be any leaks, and if there is, it'll get fixed pretty quick. 2. he's using high quality stainless steel lines. 3. it looks real cool. 4. the fuel constantly running through the rail will keep it cool enough not to boil. even on hot days. for a get around, you could allways vent the bonnet to reduce the underbonnet temps. so, there is the 7-10 boil window? well if you stop the car, and pop the bonnet, you'll be talking about it for longer than 10 minutes, and the drool of the spectators wil act as a temporary coolant. technically speaking though, (and i know its VERY difficult with the injectors you have) If boiling is a bit of an issue, upping the line pressure a fair bit will increase the boiling point. you could also ceramic coat the fuel lines, to keep the heat out, but it may detract from the looks of it. polished up will look heaps cooler. my other thought for the lines, but its a LOT more work, is to run the line inside a second tube, if your careful you can get some ceramic heat wrap in there, and maybe even the injector wires? for a completely hidden look. either way, awesome work, cant wait to see it finished

that is awesome, now all you need to do is swap those ugly bumpers off and stay away from subies!!!

ok fellow squirters (that sounds so rude huh ) I have bought myself a MS V2.2, got it cheap from someone who has no idea. from the info given to me by them, it has never been fitted or powered up, and was for a 4 cylinder turbo, with either reluctor or hall ignition. other than that, the PO has no idea. he got it with a box full of stuff in an unfinished project. its going on the mighty L28, fitted with custom injection (injector details to be finalised) using a L28 electronic ignition, and single coil, through the dizzy cap. It'll also have a GT3271R turbo off the hot side. I am now considering maybe fabbing up a proper crank angle sensor, blocking off the dizzy and running either waste spark, or full on independant coils, now i have seen that awesome EDIS post. maybe that'll be a good later on project huh. now, i have been having a good look around, trying to nut out what i have. I have read that there are some hardware options that enable or disable certain things. now, i still currently have no idea (but im reading and learning) So, if i post up some pictures, perhaps someone could tell me how its configured, Or at least, if the current hardware configuration will work on my new setup. thanks, Alan.

well, the one i remember the most was my 2nd day on the job as a fresh 1st year apprentice mech. I was working with another bloke, and we were doing a service on a mid 90s' maxima, i was doing the fuel filter, that needs the hose loosened from the top, then raised up and loosened from the bottom and removed. the other bloke had left me there to do it while he went to get some parts. I had raised the car up, after removing the top pipe, and then cracked the bottom pipe. the fuel that was in the filter, came gushing out, over the crows foot, and down the ratchet extension, right into my face and open eyes. I dropped the ratched, said something, and ran outside to the emergency shower and began rinsing my face. The tech comes back, and asks the bloke on the hoist next to me, "where'd the kid go?" the bloke replies, "well, he was doing the filter, and all i heard was 'f&^k, my eyes, my eyes, it burns' and he ran off. Maybe he's out having a smoke" it took a while to live it down, but thats part of being an apprentice huh. i have done plenty worse then that, but that is the one i allways remember. Oh, and after reading all of these, i see a startling connection between many of them. burned wedding rings? so, proof that marriage really is pain.

sorry, havent got any pictures of my workbench NOT covered in carparts, and projects in various stages of completeness but, it is a wooden frame, made out of some pretty solid peices of 2x4 It has a shelf running along the middle, and drawers (from an old freezer) on one side, and my air hose on a reel on the bottom shelf under the drawers. the vice is bolted to one side, and the bench grinder on the other. the top is a couple of 2 inch thick hard wood planks. at the moment all the welding is done in the vice, but im knocking up a new sub bench that has a top made out of industrial flooring grate. had one similar when i learned to weld at school. my tips on a work bench? make sure its heavy. nothing worse than a bench moving around as you bash and bend things on it, bolt the bench down if applicable. also, make sure you have plenty of power outlets ON the bench, i have 4, but 8 would be nice. if you have wood, and are welding in a vice, make one of the mount bolts really long, you can clamp your welder earth onto that, out of the way. with a metal grate bench, you only need to rest your work on it and you have a circuit. If its a metal grate bench, make sure you have a flat plate on it too, makes a damn good scratch pad, good for getting your arc welder rods prepped. also. make a provision to keep your consumeables close by, my tube of TIG rods sits nicely on the back of my bench, within easy reach without even lifting my helmet.

and this is what the resident bogans (rednecks) do to thier utes. (btw, engine and driveline mods would be done to less that 10% of them)

i wouldnt do it out of 3mm steel. for one it'd be heavy, and secondly, if you ever ran into anyone else, they would be like 2 big ramming blades, once the rest of the thin panel work around it peeled away, which it would. i could easily see them puncturing a door in a side on impact. would be easier just to cut the recuired panels off a wreck, and graft them in. or instead, just cut the guts out of it, leaving the lip, which looks in good shape, and replace the panel section with the same grade steel.

seriously, why risk it? Its cheap for a reason. ok, lets say that the impeller comes apart, because its manufactured out of cheap materials, and the balance of it is shot (and lets face it, it is IMPOSSIBLE to balance a turbine that rotates at +140,000rpm without very expensive equipment) So, the impeller comes apart, and shatters inside the housing. the remnants head up your inlet track, from there, two things will happen, they will either embed themselves firmly in your intercooler, trashing it internally (written off cooler) Or if you dont have a cooler, they will end up IN the engine, where they have the potential to jam between the valves that are opening and closing, or the piston that is heading up and down rapidly. remember, if that thing is going to let go, its going to do it at full power/rpm's where it WILL maximise the damage. IMO, not worth it at all, unless its a cheap junker that you dont mind if it blows up spectacularly) Personally, i reckon using one of these turbos is up there with using JB weld to hold a BOV on.

i got a genuine Nismo 0.6mm MLS head gasket from Courtesy Nissan, in texas. they even shipped it half way round the planet for me. Cost about $150 for the gasket. IMO, excellent value

i dont mean to be rude, but correct spelling will greatly increase your chances of getting a positive search. most internet browsers have spell checkers built into them these days. also, search for the same thing by using "common' terms for things, eg, the front panels can be called, quarter panels, fenders, guards ect ect

Hey, truthfully i DO think that something else would have contributed, BUT, as it stands from a completely neutral view, using ONLY the evidence at hand, eg what he has said, that is the conclusion that i came to. and, as i stated at the end of my post, its a very similar conclusion that most outside, or neutral observers would come to, eg Cops, Insurance, Courts ect ect What definitive evidence are you suggesting i have missed? because he clearly said he WASN'T speeding, yet says he WAS doing 5 over? so, the way i see it, if he is comfortable to think that 5 over on a wet surface isnt speeding, or dangerous, then what other aspects is he comfortable to push the limits on. I dont know, and i wont speculate on that, because as far as im concerned, that is wrong, and can lead to bias and discrimination. Only he knows, and as it stands, he isnt sharing that info.

Yes, you were speeding, the speed limit was 70, not 75. so what if everyone else was speeding, thats their stupid error. So it had only just started raining, that means the oils in the road would have just started soaking back up onto the surface. Down here in almost permanent drought conditions, the lightest rains can make the roads very slippery, and the majority of the drivers know it. so you have an issue with your tyres?? As in insufficient tread depth? uneven wearing? compound too hard (cheap tyres) and you know the issue exists, yet as you claim, you were still speeding on a wet road? Nobody is saying you need to be the best driver in the world, but i do agree with BJ that maybe some more driver training would be a good idea. simple fact was, you were doing 'some' aspects in the wrong, and as a result, an accident occurred. Just for the sake of it, lets just imagine that your accident caused a fatality in that mazda6? so what if the driver was stoned, and drinking, while driving blindfolded, YOU hit them, and YOU were doing over the speed limit, meaning in any court of law, YOU would be responsible for their death. i know, sounds harsh, and its very easy to look at the situation as an outsider and criticize, but just be aware that thats what the cops, insurance, courts, random people ect will do.

well, hello from another Canberra Zed driver. have you looked on the ozdat engine design website? http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ play around on there if you havent allready. have a look at the setup of the L28 block with flat top pistons, the N42 head, and a 0.6mm headgasket (Nismo metal gasket)

ok, im stretching on this one, cause its been a while since i heard it, But. I remember hearing that when the ethanol burns, it also releases an Oxygen portion, that oxygen portion needs to be compensated for with a bit more fuel, if the fuel mix isn't increased slighty over the equivalent 'full petrol mix' (gas for you guys) then the engine will run lean, and detonation is more likely, leading to ECU's that retard the timing slightly. I had a very quick look on google for some info, but have come up blank at the moment.

lol, thats right, you guys cant 'legally' drink till your 21. its 18 down here, but in reality usually 16-17 Anyways, if your going to repaint the bay, do some tidying up while your in there. screw bolts into unused holes and grind the heads off, a skim of bondo, and its like it was never there, but can be removed and the threaded hole used if necesarry. grind off any unused mountings hide your wiring and relays, ect. it will make a HUGE difference to its appearance, even if its all stock.

seriously, buy that bloke a case of beer or something. generosity like that is a dying thing these days, you'll earn some damn good karma points too