660Z

Thanks, yeah I think I will get one. As for the solenoid, I have a terminal block I`ll hook everything up to and move the solenoid out into the engine compartment. Mark

I`m building a drag car that might someday see the street but not this year. Anyway I`ve started mounting the solenoid to the side panel where the relay boxes used to be (240z). I`m doing this because the MSD and timing controls are going to be located where the glove box is. Is this NHRA legal? I think it might be because the kill switch terminals are allowed inside the car. Mark

If I were going to road race, I would go with a steel skinned (plastic cell inside) with a tip over saftey valve. Your rules might not require the steel skinned style, but you have more of a chance of roll over then with drag racing. I know all forms of automotive racing will require you to have a tip over valve. Mark

I was afraid you would say that....Damn Thanks for the info...Mark

So did you just tighten from the outside or did you also have to put a wrench on the inside? The foam inside could make it alittle troublesome. Mark

On the sump fittings are they threaded into the pastic or is there a nut from behind. Like a bulk head fitting. I was able to tighten the one but the other is still seeping. Thanks, Mark

If your running flat tops, I would just throw a blower and cam in it. Honestly the only real reason for flattops in a bigblock is for a blower anyway. I have a 66 396 325 horse model in my 68 nova. I put a small factory cam (375 horse) solid .520 lift 309 dur, 60`s model open plane alum intake w/850 db holley. And it runs fine. Even with the metal intake and hdy cam it would hold it`s own. Mark PS. I`ve thought about doing the 454 crank idea myself someday. So thanks for the info in the thead!

I ran a search but everything was about sectioning and didn`t really awnser my question. Are the 240-280z front OEM replacement cartrages the same, or at least interchangeable? I have a 73 drag car and want the cheepest set I can get. I found a set on ebay but the application was 74-78. Thanks,Mark

Well i`m learning right now acually. Started off wanting to do a gasser look. Bought a straight axle/ford spindles off of ebay. Too short made for an angila. Can resell at a later date but that`s $250 sitting there. Abandoned the gasser idea. Too popuar right now. prices skyrocketed. Bought some Wheel Vintiqites rims, thought I could change the backspacing myself....I changed the backspacing but distroyed the wheels....Buying new rims with the correct backspace...$130 wasted...but learned something new. Thought I could modify dirt track headers the way I wanted...nope distroyed them!!!...new headers, found some that would work...$100 wasted Well I learned...Started buying parts when I need them and making sure they`ll work,rather then just to get it on the track...Started looking down the road at the times I want to run and building it right the first time! Case in point didn`t like the idea of running a mini spool and c-clip elim on stock axles and upgrading later. I want to run 9.99 so I`m going with 33 spline axles, spool and c-clip elim kit....will never hurt it and never have to think about it again. Spend the money now and save in the long run. Mark

My initals + I`ve owned this car for 20 years now, Time to bring her out of storage and throw some new parts her way!!! Mark P.S sorry my Aol name is ML68Nova....660z is because I run a 400 sbc in my 240`z

Yes, I`m changing the offset on some 15x10 rally rims to a 7.5 backspace. The wheels are Wheel Vintiquies and the centers are pressed in and then welded. I`m learning the process and found out the press in part whlie taking one apart. I have since learned that Mig weld is ok to use. Mark

With a press in wheel center, is mig enough to secure the center to the rim or is something stronger needed? Mark

Nevermind I worked it out and am keeping the full gage. Mark

I have a full tube front end and full cage with everything tied in. (car is in the construction phase) My problem is I hate how the halo bar and front down tubes turned out (S&W calls it the rollbar to cage conversion kit) and I am disappionted with how they tied into the front sub frame supports that go though the firewall. The conversion part was a pain to install and ended up looking like crap. I want to cut that section out (Conversion kit) and weld the front sub frame supports to the firewall. So my question is with a tube front end attached to the firewall and an 8 point rollbar (S&W) would I be legal for 9.99-10.0 by NHRA standards. For the sub frame support tubes, can I cut them short to reinforce the firewall and weld in the length of tube I cut out. Would it be safe to do so? I know the main hoop, halo bar and probally the windshield down tubes you have to keep intact for saftey, would the frame support tubes fall into this catagory? Thanks, Mark

Thanks for the info, I found an old posting of Dr. Hunt`s saying his is also set at 94 inches. At 91" wheelbase I have some clearance issues and shock issues that I think 94" would clear up, so I`ll shoot for that mesurment. Mark

I`m currently installing a solid rear and was using the stock wheel base of 91" (90.7) Those that have done the swap. What wheel base did you go with? My test tires are 27" and would probablly work but are real close to the front edge like a stock 240z already is. I`m thinking a wheel base of 92 or 92.5 would center the the tire in the wells. I`m leaving everything tackwelded for now until my slicks come in. I`m just interested in what others have come up with. Mark

Out of all the threads for "solid rear" and "which is better IRS or solid" ect, ect... No one mentions the obvious and that is the IRS unbolts and seperates from the chassis in one unit and a solid rear depending on how you have it set up, either with ladder bars or jegster S/S bars or the like, just takes 4 bolts to remove. If you want to go dragracing one weekend and do Autocross the next. You could have the rear changed in under an hour start to finish. Mark

I`ve had and still have a Heriated Disk (L1-S5) in 1992,The last one above the pelvis. Talk about pain!!!! It hits your siatic nerve and just shoots down your legs. Anyway, I was helped with phyisical therapy (sp?) Heat, body pulling and back exerices. I still have pain and problems but as long as I`m moble I`m happy. I won`t lift anything of weight without help, either a friend or something mecanical. Mark

I can`t remember if reverse uses one but the no 1st or 4th is the magnetic pressure switch on the valve body in the front (just undo the clip and pull out, no need to remove the valve body). They`re cheep to buy so replace both. This might cure your reverse problem, but don`t qoute me on that. Mark

I`m finising up my cage, working on it off and on due to my nightshift job. Anyway, while looking at the welds, i`m wondering if my welding pernatration was enough. I`m going to do a strengh test and check penatration on a scrap piece when I get home. If I find that there wasn`t enough. Can I grind the welds flat and go back over the them with a hotter range? My thinking when starting this was I wanted the weld to dig in but not be so hot that it had burn thru or become brittle. Now I`m wandering if I should have set it so it had potenal to burn thru due to the thickness of the tube. Thanks, Mark

I started a thead last year about this subject: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106763&highlight=ipod

Thanks, for the info...I never thought of it ....I have a 3 ton come along that should do the job. Mark

My halo bar is wider than the main hoop where it need to be welded. I know per NHRA rules the main hoop can`t be cut in half and rewelded, but can the halo bar be cut. I need to remove about an inch from the center. Thanks, Mark

Make sure the rotation of the rotors will work with the engine. I almost bought one off of ebay from a thunderbird, but for some reason concluded the ford ran opposit (sp?) of the chevy. This was a few years ago and don`t remember why I came to that concusion. But looking at the pics and it being from a Jag it looks like it should be ok. Even if it was oppisit (sp?) you could correct it with a serpitine setup. Mark

She has no butt....And she`s not naked...What`s up with that?