rossman

Axles finally complete, Dash is in, wiring is a mess! My house is for sale and is supposed to close mid-October. I would love to drive the car to my new apartment rather than have it towed. I need to get the car again running soon! Missing a few straps but you get the idea... I'm trying to figure out where all these bullet and spade connectors go:

I seem to have lost the nut that holds the steering wheel nut to the steering column. Can somebody tell me the size and tread pitch of the nut? Thanks!

Thanks NewZed. I found the problem! I knew it had to be something simple and it was. The positive and negative battery posts are backwards. Autozone sold me the wrong battery and I didn't verify it. hahaha!

That's what I did must have missed it. I dunno.

I unplugged everything and that is the only source of resistance less than open circuit. I'll do some more testing and reconnect everything tomorrow.

I thought it would be an open circuit.

Maybe I should rephrase that as a question... Should there be any resistance between the positive and negative terminals on the alternator? My DMM is measuring ~15 MOhm. I'm using as CS130 alternator if that makes any difference.

I assume there should be 0.0 ohms between the positive and negative terminals on the alternator. If that's true then I found the problem.

Thanks guys. I'll work on it later this week. I'd bet money there is a connector reversed or damaged wire insulation as both the fuse box and all the connectors at the steering column are all disconnected.

NewZed - Thanks for your reply. Essentially the only thing stock about the electrical system is the lighting wiring. I've replaced all the fusible links with maxi fuses. I put my DMM on the 10A setting then put the terminals inline with the negative battery terminal and the DMM internal fuse popped immediately. Luckily I have a spare! How can I test for the short without making an electrical connection to the battery? Continuity test? I get 10 - 30 milliohm resistance between ground and the alternator/battery positive terminal. Alternator ground to other grounds have no measurable resistance; which makes sense.

So, the problem is when I go to connect the negative terminal on my battery it arcs every time. Big spark, lead spattering off the battery terminal, ignition off, key out. I assume this means I have a short somewhere. Here is a little history. It's a 1972 240z with extensive electrical modifications, build page here. The car was running, no arcing, no electrical issues. I pulled the dash to install an aftermarket speedo and tach, neither of which are connected to power at the moment. I verified that all the passenger side connections have the same color wires on both sides of the connectors. I pulled all connectors on to the stock fuse box and disconnected power to it. I haven't messed with anything under the hood except removing the old battery and reinstalling a new one. One thing I noticed is that some of the under-dash wire connectors are not obvious where they connect. I'm worried I have a ground connector connected to power. I'm looking for tips to track down the short, like where I should start and how to proceed and if there are any common culprits. Thanks for any help!

Looks very nice! Where did you get it... or did you make it?

Ok, so here it is spring time and the dash is still sitting in my dining room! I finally managed to figure out that the FSM wiring diagram and my car's hand brake wire does not match. Finishing up the dash seems simple enough but now I have other interests that are consuming my limited time

PLATA - Thanks I hope to have it on the road this spring. Lazeum - The speedo uses a GPS sensor.

Ok, I've got a new normalcy...better than the old normalcy...waaaaaay better . I've done a little work. I pulled the dash and installed Speed Hut speedo and tach gauges. Here are a couple of pics. I still need to wire them up. Hopefully that will happen this weekend. Its a 4 day weekend for me.

It's hard to believe that it's been since October when I last posted. The project is still on hold until I get my life back in order. I should be back in my house/garage sometime in July. Divorce sux...I don't recommend it.

I just purchased this car from a my step father. It's a 2005 325i with only 33K on the clock. It's a base model automatic. I think the only option it has is a electric heated passenger seat. The car isn't fast but its solid, handles well and the inline 6 is silky smooth. I'm loving it!

Am I the only one that thinks there is nothing special about yellow turn signal lenses? I'll take clear all around thank you

Will consider the entire housing if the chrome pieces are good.

Have you tried Nissan? I'm sure there is someone here who has a junk block that will let them go.

I'm in need of a set of 240z tail light trim pieces. The chrome plastic pieces that span across the middle of the tail light lenses. Must be in good shape with no or little cracks/fading.

+1 I'm really enjoying this thread.

Glad you figured it out. I wouldn't call that a fitment issue. I'd call it an opportunity to hone your fabrication skills. You're welding prebent sheet metal to 40+ year old sheet metal. Its not going to be perfect.

The horror... the horror...