rossman

They are nice gauges. I have a GPS speedo and tach. Not having to worry about what dizzy and transmission you have is a definite plus. Planning to get matching boost, oil and voltmeter gauges too.

Nope it's never been done before.

Yes, there should be some play. The drive shaft shop should know how long to make the it if you give them the distance from the yoke flange to the tip of the output shaft. You could have it magnafluxed, but only if you can't see the crack yourself. First try using a magnifying glass and good lighting. You could also try dye/liquid penetrant.

I think a better reference for the diff height would be one of the frame rails or some other common hard point on the body of the car. This would eliminate differences in ride height when comparing to other s30s.

So the cups separated from the ball bearings with the spacers installed? Seems impossible unless something is loose. Are you positive the differential and suspension mounted solid? Something may be moving or deflecting under load.

I can't tell anything by looking at the pictures. Lowering the differential will limit the amount the shaft needs to extend at full droop. Do you have to compress the suspension or pry on the shaft to install the shafts? If I understand correctly, your shafts and bearing cages can float on both ends when installed. I believe this means that the shaft splines can ride on the inner side of the CV cup or spacer in your case. To me that seems like a poor design...but, maybe it has worked for other people.

^what he said. Also, removing the strut springs makes the job much easier.

Your setup is custom. There is no normal. That said, the CV joints can can handle quite a bit of misalignment as long as there is no binding. Have you verified that the axles don't bind thru the entire range of suspension motion?

CrayZ - I live in the Houston area and can help you if you need it. I'm not familiar with your VLSD/Q45 setup but very familiar with S30s including their suspensions. Take a look at the link in my signature for all the mods I've done to my S30.

My other bike is a Cannondale M500 that I picked up used in 2000. The rear derailer and front shocks are completely wore out now and need to be replaced. I think I'm going to rebuild it. The frame is in good shape and pretty light for a mountain bike. I went for a 40 mile ride today. The weather in Houston is cool and clear....very nice. This frame is fairly heavy for a composite but it soaks up bumps well and pedaling effort seems pretty efficient.

I thought I would share my new toy: Giant Defy Carbon Composite. Merry Christmas to me Any other cyclists on HZ?

I kinda miss the pink dress....

Exactly. I believe all 240/260 ignition switches have separate electrical contact pads for cranking and running. There is a momentary cut in power when the ignition switch translates over the pads. I installed a 280 ignition to solve the issue.

Are you certain that you have the front and rears hooked up correctly to the MC? It's worth verifying if you haven't already. I didn't remove the stock proportioning valve from my setup because the ACZ instructions say that you don't have to. I assume Dave knows what he is talking about but I have not had a chance to test mine.

The gear has been known to slip and it's a common and simple race engine mod. It was recommended to me by a couple of reputable engine builders. It's your engine so obviously it's up to you but I recommend you research it... Nice build by the way

Yep, I got a similar story from Rebello when I questioned his decision to use an N42 over F54 for my 89mm bore bottom end.

Pin the gear and shafts together so they don't move relative to each other.

Long time no post. Life has gotten in the way of the project. It's not dead, just on the back burner for a while. The exhaust system, including the wastegate dump tube is complete. I'll post up some pictures...when I find them. I think they are on my old LG G2X phone. I purchased a new Galaxy Nexus, hands down the best phone I've ever owned. The oil pan is back in. Hopefully the leak is fixed. Half installed new throttle cable, since, like a dumb azz, I cut the first one too short causing the throttle to be way too jumpy. Yesterday, I started installing my Speed Hut GPS speedo and tach. Unfortunately the dash has to come out . The dash cap blocks the stock gauges from sliding out the front. Soooo, I got the dash most of the way out but got distracted when a neighbor popped over with beer and BS. I received a replacement half shaft from M2 Differentials. The original set were not the correct length. So, Jon, being the stand up guy that he is, had new shafts made and replaced them at no charge. So, the short term "git 'er runnin'" to-do list includes: 1) Finish installing the throttle cable 2) Swap out the half shafts 3) Finish installing the gauges/dash 4) Fill her full of oil No too much left but I imagine it will take me several months to complete...

Wastegate locations are fairly limited if you're using the stock manifold. A lot of people, myself included, weld an elbow to the manifold just under the turbo flange. Take a look at post #23 from my build page.

What are you doing for your wastegate?

Nice build Steve!

All of the answers to your questions can be found via the search function on this site. All the stock cam gears are the same. I'm assuming, since you didn't say, that your setup is stock EFI. Look here for info on stock cams. When you swap the cam, keep track of the lifters. Each lifter is a matched set with each cam lobe. You will need to make sure the wipe pattern is set up correctly on the lifter lash pad. Search this site for details on how to check for proper cam geometry. Why do you think you need larger injectors? Read BRAAPs L6 EFI-induction advice and tips regarding stock EFI mods.

Move to a different state

Sounds like you got boost pressure into the crankcase and turbo oil return. Where is the smoke coming from? What color is it?

Please explain how no PCV valve equates to excessive oil pressure?