rossman

I used epoxy for the internal baffle and Locktite thread sealant for the breather fitting.

You have to find the right welder. The guy I used did it for me on his lunch break. Cost me $30 to weld on a couple of stainless v- band flanges.

$55 at Amazon. Save a few bucks and take it to a welder.

I'm working on it. Still need to fabricate a new tranny mount and exhaust pipe. The custom Z32 tranny mount I purchased sticks down exactly where I want to tuck the 3" exhaust pipe . I'm learning to weld so it's going to take a little bit of time. This past week I set the engine timing with a degree wheel. I used a 7" degree wheel so it could be done with the engine in-car. Timing is now spot-on (<1 degree). Today I got my pinned distributor/oil pump drive back from my machinist friend. In stock form, the gear is just pressed on the shaft, relying on friction to maintain timing. The roll pin will safeguard against relative motion between the two parts. Movement between the two parts will result in uncontrolled timing changes and possible catastrophic detonation. Thanks again to Ron (RTz) for the tips on engine timing and dizzy pinning!

I used Alumiweld to "weld" (actually more like solder or braze) a couple of fittings on aluminum pipe. It worked as advertized. In your situation, my guess is that you aren't getting the manifold up to temperature. The problem is two fold. First, Aluminum is an excellent conductor so heat is carried away quickly. Second, the manifold is massive (as compared to a thin walled tube) so it takes a lot of heat to get it up to temperature. Try applying the heat very locally, right at the area you want to weld. If that fails, you might want to grind off as much material as possible to reduce the manifold's thermal mass in that area.

Just today I was almost hit head-on by a guy texting. I was in the center lane waiting for traffic to clear and this guy veered into the turning lane coming right at me heading the opposite direction...texting. He was holding the phone with both hands with his wrists propped on top of the steering wheel. Just at the last second, I guess he heard my horn over the fricken Conway Twitty and jerked the truck over just enough to avoid slamming into me. It would have been bad...F250 @ 50mph vs. Honda Fit

Use a flat prybar in between the pumpkin and the CV flange. It will pop out, just needs a little convincing.

You know it! 15x7 Panasport ultralights

Okay, now it's actually firing on all six cylinders! In the previous video it was only firing on 1, 3 and 5. The sequence was off...n00b mistake . Thanks again to Ron for putting up with all my questions. Of course, as soon as I get it running, I'm taking it down. I'm getting a degree wheel, piston stop and extra dial gauge to set the crank and cam timing more precisely. While it's down I'm also going to have the oil pump drive gear pinned.

Nice looking car Leon! I love Panasports. It's like they were make for S30 lines.

That's cool. I can relate. I am referring to WATER injection not FUEL injection. All TT's are carb'd. Water injection is used to cool the intake charge in order to supress detonation. TT's water injection system is a pretty slick passive system.

Neat swap. What made you got this route vs. an sr20det or something more modern? You have your work cut out for you. Check out the information that texis30O has posted here and here. A search on "tubrotom" will come up with more information. Try using Google: "turbotom site:hybridz.org" Did you get the water injection system with it?

Also, I ended up replacing the 90 degree machined fittings at the tank with 90 degree bent tube type fittings. The pump was noisy and required higher than normal voltage to maintain 43 PSI. I contacted Aeormotive for help. The tech help guy immediately honed in on the tank fitting and recommended that I change them. The sharp corners created by the intersecting drill bores in the fitting cause cavitation on the intake side which leads to poor pump performance. I changed the fittings to XRP high flow fittings. The voltage is now in spec and the noise dropped noticeably.

This morning I got up under the car with the pump running and FPR set at 43 PSI. There was no evidence of any leaks. The pump hasn't been run for any extended periods of time (>30 min) so I'm going to continue to check. So far so good.

You can use anodized aluminum tube nuts and sleeves with stainless fuel line. That is what I used. Most of my AN parts were sourced from anplumbing.com. I'm not sure what you mean by hyper expensive tools. Both Rigid and Parker make hand tools that go for <$200. You could resell the tool on Ebay and recover most of that. I used the Rigid tool to flare my 5/8" stainless lines. The problem I ran into was that the line that I bought had deep extrusion marks preventing a good seal in the as-flared condition. I had to polish the snot our of the flares to get them to seal. In the end it worked and sealed well. Leave a little extra on the ends of your fuel lines that you can cut off and re-flare just in case. Threads I started on the subject: Installing my fuel lines: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99619-installing-custom-fuel-lines/page__p__933971__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=933971 This one involves pressure testing the system after installation. I'm glad I did, there would have been fuel leaks everywhere otherwise. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/104364-pressure-testing-fuel-system-with-no-fuel/page__p__975912__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=975912

I had no luck using a dead blow hammer but the pipe method worked perfect. I used 1-1/4 galvanized pipe and slammed it against a block of wood to prevent damaging the shaft when it let loose from the joint.

I'm looking at the giant hole in my floorboard.... And was wondering what you guys are using to close out the hole. I'd like to have some sort of rubber boot like the stock inner boot. I tried the stock boot but the hole is too small for the shifter and in the wrong location.

It sounds like you have them installed correctly but you can verify by the part numbers printed on each spring. Part numbers ending in .001 go in the front and .202 go in the rear. Also check that the springs are seated correctly in their seats. I have the same springs in my 240z. There is about 1/4 inch more clearance between the front tire/fender lip in the front than in the rear.

You guys crack me up! Hmm, now were is that PCV valve...

No it's not ok. That pipe is the crankcase vent. Plum it to the PCV Valve. Optionally, you could plumb the crankcase vent tube to a catch can or simply mount a small filter to it. In any case, your crankcase must breath else the pressure that builds up inside will blow out your seals.

true, until Or the plating on the fuse box peels off and corrodes, or the terminal screws back out, or .... Keep it simple. Wire it with 4 gauge directly from the battery to the starter.

Run a separate 4 gauge wire from the battery positive terminal to the starter. It looks OK other than that.

A wiring diagram would help. Are all of the 3 inputs connected to a common bus? What size fuse are you using on the starter solenoid? Typically it's connected straight to the battery.

Yes it is! She actually moved under her own power today too, not much, just in and out of the garage. Baby steps I fixed an issue with the fuel system today. At first I noticed that the A1000 pump seemed excessively noisy. I thought "man, there is no way I can deal with this kind of noise." Then when I installed the pump speed controller and it took almost 11 volts to keep the pressure @ 43 PSI. The spec called out 10 volts max. So, I called Aeromotive to see if they had any ideas. The technical guy asked me to take some pictures of the system. The first thing he spotted was the right angle fittings attached to the tank. They were the "forged" type of fitting not the bent tube. They are drilled internally leaving sharp edges at the intersection. He said they are known to cause cavitation. So, on his recommendation I replaced them with XRP bent tube type fittings. Now the pump noise is considerably lower (still loud but tolerable) and it only takes 8.5 volts to keep the pressure up to spec. Problem solved. Also picked up a set of S2000 seats. Got a pretty good deal off CL. They are much nicer than the Miata seats I was going to use. I still have quite a bit to do before she is road worthy. 1) Fix a pretty bad oil leak at the rear of the pan. Snugging the bolts helped a little but I'm thinking the pan may have to come off. For now I'll just keep adding oil. The pan holds 8 quarts so it'll take a while to go dry. 2) Adjust and bleed the clutch. It starts to engage right off the stop. Not sure it this is normal. I haven't driven her with this setup. 3) Fabricate an exhaust system. I got all of the 3" mandrel bent pipe on hand. Need to get a muffler and resonator. I want her to be very quiet. Any suggestions? That's it for now.

I FINALLY got the ! Many thanks go to RTz for his help and setting up the ECU. I couldn't have done it without his help. It's running very rich. This weekend I'm going to hook up the LC-1 and start leaning her out.