rossman

It might help if you use the correct terms. Your S30 has a Air Flow Meter (AFM) not a Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter. They work on completely different principles.

Did the car run prior to it sitting for 2 years? Who rebuilt the engine and are they a trustworthy source? It could be that the damper inertial ring has slipped causing incorrect timing. Verify timing with a timing wheel and piston stop. A 7 or 8 inch wheel will fit so you don't have to remove the engine.

Take a pair of calipers and measure the shank diameter. Measure the depth of the housing + washer and add 2x diameter and round up to the nearest bolt length. Invest in a thread gauge or get a printable one online. I got mine from Harbor Freight. Go the McMaster.com (or one of the many other online bolt suppliers) and see what they got. Beware of reddat's shipping charges. He has gouged quite a few people on this board including me.

One more question - Does the carrier have to be re-shimmed when replacing the side gears?

Here are a few pictures of the side bearings and ring gear. This first one looks like spalling. Not sure what would cause that. This just looks like normal wear. The ring and pinnion gears look good. The contact surfaces are smooth with no apparent ridges.

Courtesy Nissan found the bearing for me. They had to get it from Nissan...whatever that means. Ordered it on Monday got it on Thursday. I pulled the differential apart today and found that one of the side bearings is also bad. I'm going to replace all of the bearings. Is there anything else I should do while I have it apart?

Looks really nice.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. A quick search came up with 3 hits for 38335-N3220. I'll call around tomorrow. Looking at the FSM, removing the bearing doesn't look too bad. It shows a tool used to remove the bearings. Since the bearing ID is 28mm, I'm assuming that I can use 1" galvanized pipe to drive out the bearing.

EDIT: Goofed up the title, should be "87 - 89 Z31 LSD" I'm looking for a 1988 - 1989 Z31 LSD. Mine has bad bearings and needs a rebuild. I'm looking to see if there are any reasonably priced units out there. Please provide pictures with the rear cover removed.

Removed both the CV shafts and drive shaft. It sounds and feels like the bearings inside the differential. Looks like I'll be rebuilding this one or getting another.

Ok, I'll look deeper. The brake calipers were removed in that video.

Thanks for the replies. All good suggestions. I have checked all of the moving/rotating parts and found no indications of wear or inadvertent contact. My setup is pretty simple as there is no rear sway bar or parking brake hardware. I made of my turning the brake disks as the car sits on jack stands. The sound you hear is coming from the differential. I believe this sound is normal and, like I said when the engine was running and drive train spinning I could not hear any significant drive train noise noise inside the car. NewZed - It's been a couple of years but now that you mention it, I do remember having trouble with one wheel bearing. I did check it afterwards and it seemed to rotate perfectly smooth so I called it good. I suspect that the culprit is a bearing somewhere. Question is, where? Does it make sense to you guys that a bearing will make more noise when loaded as z240 mentioned? It seems to me that the differential would make the same noise whether the suspension is loaded or unloaded. I can understand how differential noise would change relative to input load but that doesn't seem to be the case. The noise only varies with the speed of the car.

I need help diagnosing a grinding noise in the rear of my 72 S30. I just recently got the car running after an extensive engine and drivetrain upgrade and rebuild. It has polyurethane LCA bushings. RT front differential mount with GM style polyurethane mount. Polyurethane mustache bar bushings. Z31 LSD and Z31 CV joints with shortened shafts. New rear wheel axle bearings and seals. AZC Wilwood race brakes all around. The car is making a constant grinding noise while driving. The sound is similar to rolling a steel wheel on concrete. It is constant - all gears, accel/decel, cruising, braking/no braking, turning, etc. The sound only stops when the wheels stop. I put car on jackstands, started it, put it in gear and engaged the clutch in first gear. The sound was gone. When I turn the drivetrain by hand all I hear is a slight dragging of the rear brakes. The brakes were initially dragging and I thought that was causing the noise but I have since shimmed the calipers so there is minimal (normal?) drag. Any ideas what it could be or how I can determine the cause? Thanks, Ross

Check out post #2 in BRAAPs L6 EFI-induction advice and tips.

Don't bother unless you are running some sort of programmable EMS and free flowing intake and exhaust.

Was out in the garage this morning trying to figure out why my fcuking rear Wilwood brakes are dragging... If they weren't dragging, I'd be DRIVING Then again...maybe it's the beer

I don't understand either. A picture or two would help.

I decided to take the car to work this morning. Luckily I went around the block first...clunk, clunk, clunk coming from the front of the car. I quickly realized that I forgot to torque the front wheel spacers. No big deal. Pulled out the scissor jack. Jack no workie, threads are galled. Drove the Fit to work. Will try again tomorrow...

I have the stock clutch fan on my car with a shroud. I don't think the shroud makes much of a difference, noise wise...but I could be wrong. I can hear the fan but it's not what I would call excessive. When I rev the engine with the car sitting still, the fan noise remains fairly constant and is drowned out by the engine/exhaust.

Thanks Pete!

I finished the main exhaust today. It's made from 3" dia, 16 gauge mandrel bent 304 stainless tube. It is installed on the car now too. Still need to plumb in the wastegate and add a hanger in at the end of the transmission. The wastegate just has an straight screamer pipe for now. Installed an Innovate AFR gauge so I can start tuning. Need to get insurance and finish the Honda wiper motor upgrade so I get her inspected. It won't be long before she's cruizing down the road!

This gear. I pinned it with a .125" spring pin and staked the top of the hole to prevent backout.

Try Courtesy or your local Nissan dealer. I got my spindle pin nuts from Courtesy, guy said they use that same nut on late model cars.

Download the FSM from xenons30 and study the wiring diagram. Most likely the crimp on that aftermarket connector is bad and the connections are corroded. I recommend replacing it with an appropriately sized Maxifuse. You might also consider replacing the ammeter with a voltmeter. The key part of any of these electrical mods/repairs is quality and clean crimp connections. Finding corrosion free wire to splice into on a 40 year old car can be challenging.

Cut the notches into the head with a die grinder. Mark the locations of the ports using a FI intake/exhaust gasket. Stuff a soft cloth into each intake and exhaust port to block chips and debris. Cut out the notches. Vacuum out the chips. Remove the cloth.