rossman

You know you can buy them new right?

Great information, thanks for sharing. Did you find other areas with casting flash blocking the coolant passages or was this the only one?

Jon - Are you saying that the 140 won't weld stainless tube with stainless wire? I have a 10+ year old Century 130 welder that will not penetrate .062 wall 304 stainless tube at full heat using .030 stainless wire and tri-gas shielding. It gives me nothing but cold welds.

Thanks for all the input guys. It sounds like the Millermatic 140 will suit my needs. Cheers, Ross

I'm a beginner welder and I'm trying to decide between these three welders. Upcoming projects include Baddog Frame Rails, floor pans and 304 stainless mandrel bent exhaust - 3" dia, .062 wall. I don't currently have a 230 outlet wired in the garage but it's easy enough to install as the breaker box is in the same room. Miller Millermatic 140 All-In-One Wire MIG Welder w/ Auto-Set, 115 V Miller Millermatic 180 All-In-One MIG Welder w/ Auto Set, 230 V Miller Millermatic 211 All-In-One MIG Welder w/ Auto Set and MVP Plug (120/230 V) Are the 230v welders worth the extra money for the types of jobs I am planning? Is the 211 just a combination of the 140/180 or is there more to it? Also, do the prices linked above seem reasonable for new Miller welders? Thanks for your help. Regards, Ross

If you want factory hoses, try Z Car Source: http://www.zcarsource.com/fuel-tank-vent-hoses_8_52880.html

Looks like a Xenon air dam to me. Similar (same?) to the one MSA sells: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1411

Yes, replace it. I believe I have a good used one if you or anybody else wants it. Another option is to get one from Larry (phone number above). His is solid and will never break.

Sounds about right. My late 76 280 came with an externally oiled cam. My current setup is both internally and externally oiled with a high volume oil pump. Another option is to find a good used head and cam combo and swap it out.

I didn't say the engine would not run. The worn lobes are most likely going to destroy themselves prematurely. Since this is a performance zcar site I assume you would want to do the job right. If that is the case then you should replace the cam, rockers and associated parts.

That cam is toast. #6 cam lobes have been starved for oil. It doesn't matter what it is because you need to get a new cam or have it re-ground.

See if this stuff fixes your problem: Extreme-Temperature Compressible Graphite Gaskets. Get the stuff with the stainless wire insert. Just use studs made for exhaust components. You can get them at auto parts stores.

I assume you are referring to the flange between the stock exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. Here is what I would do. Face off the exhaust manifold so that you know it's flat Fabricate a thicker flange Use heat resistant bolts and nuts made for exhaust components Use a graphite type gasket coated with copper coat Install a flex joint in the exhaust pipe down stream of the exhaust pipe to gearbox mount.

Oh gawd no...

Here is a video of me .

This morning I set the coils in a wasted spark configuration (each of the 6 coils fires every 180 cam degrees). It now acts like it wants to start. As I'm cranking it catches for a second, engine speed jumps a little but doesn't start. It does this every few seconds. I sprayed some starter fluid into the intake, started cranking again and got a big backfire through the intake. For sanity's sake I checked again that cylinder #1 is at TDC, cam lobes are up, and crank damper mark is on 0. I think that my timing is off somewhere in the ECU. Any suggestions?

Nice car Bluestag. I saw a Stag on Wheeler Dealers the other day. It had the original Triumph V8.

It looks like the low injector voltage is a problem at the power supply. I think one of the relays is bad. I'll know more when I get back in town on Wednesday.

Well, I tried and failed to start my engine for the first time this weekend. The engine turns over with no signs of combustion. No kicks, jerks, backfires, nothing. There is a strong fuel smell after cranking for several minutes. I have the following setup: L28 Wolf V500 EMS RC 660cc low impedance injectors LS1 coils (6) GM IAT sensor (open element) GM coolant temperature sensor Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump Aeromotive A1000 FPR Aeromotive Pump Speed Controller (drops the pump speed in half below 1500 rpm) Wolf internal MAP Ford 65mm TPS The crank damper mark coincides with the 0 degree timing mark when cylinder #1 is on TDC compression stroke. In this position, the dual slots on the distributor wheel are hidden under the optical sensor. I calibrated the TPS by checking the voltage closed and wide open and entered those values into Wolf. The live display shows the correct throttle position. The fuel pump kicks on and the fuel pressure goes to ~43 psi at the fuel rail during cranking. Once cranking stops the pump shuts off and fuel pressure drops down to 10 psi or so. My inductive timing light flashes when connected to #1 indicating that it's producing spark. Plugs are gapped .028" The fuel and ignition channels wired up such that cylinder 1 corresponds to channel 1, cylinder 2 corresponds to channel 2, etc. The map I am using is based off KTM's L6 map. The only things I changed are the injector open times (scaled 450/660) and I disabled all the channels that don't have a function with my setup. In Wolf software "Ignition Trigger Offset" and "Injector Pulse Offset" values are set up as 0, 4, 2, 5, 1, 3 I timed the engine by setting "Ignition Lock Fixed Timing" to 0 degrees and adjusting the distributor and Ref BTDC until the damper timing mark lined up with 0 using an inductive timing light connected to cylinder #1. "Ref degrees BTDC" is at 75 degrees. Here are some of my observations. The 75 degrees "Ref degrees BTDC" doesn't really make sense to me. It seems like it shouldn't be more than 10 to 15 degrees to get it right on the mark since the dual synch slots were just ahead or right on top of the optical sensor when I verified the damper mark corresponded to 0 degrees TDC compression stroke. The injector voltage with the ECU on and not cranking is ~4.5 volts constant. I thought there should be 0 voltage until the ECU grounds the individual injector. I pulled the plugs after cranking for some time and they appear to be dry or at least not dripping wet. There is a strong smell of fuel in the engine bay after cranking for some time. I cannot find any leaks in the fuel system. I can email my map to anybody who is willing to check it out. Thanks in advance for any help. Ross

Cool car but it's too bad those seat belts are going to crush is spine if he ever gets in an serious accident

I used class 10.9 bolts, cleaned the bolt and adapter threads with brake parts cleaner to remove all oils, applied Locktite blue to the bolt threads and torqued them to 35 ft-lbs. I assume MM adapters are the same design (except metal finish).

nevermind

No, not yet. I'm still closing out a few unfinished tasks. I have been working on it a little bit at a time. I usually get up around 5:00 AM and work on it a couple hours before getting ready for work. My weekends are consumed by Cub Scouts, soccer, yard work, home repairs, social events, whatever my wife needs me to do, blah, blah, blah... Things I've done since my last post... Drilled a timing synch hole in the zxt CAS disk. Blanked a bunch of the nipples from the fuel evaporator tank and brazed on an new 1/2NPT fitting for a vent tube Had a wastegate dump pipe fabricated from 1.5" stainless tube Sanded down and painted the fan shroud Cut off a portion of the transmission mount that was blocking the speedometer cable drive. When I went to install the mechanical drive, I found out that the drive I previously ordered had was wrong (too short) so I ordered another one from Courtesy Nissan. It should be here next week. In the mean time I re-installed the stock Z32 electrical drive to fill the hole. Modified the half shafts to prevent bottoming during suspension movement. They were bound up just installing them with the suspension unloaded. Replacing the stock z31 shafts with JMortensen's shortened shafts fixed the problem. Still need to install boot clamps on the shaft side of the boots. Before I install the clamps I want to compress the suspension under the car's weight and let the boot relax so it's not stressed in the nominal state. Modified the stock 280z fan shroud to fit the AZC radiator. This involved lots of cutting, grinding, filling with epoxy putty, sanding and drilling. Everything but the surface finish turned out good. I got a little crazy sanding down the surface to remove some of the glossy surface in preparation for painting. I painted it with Bumper Black. You can see sanding scratches but it's flat and so it doesn't stand out too much. I'm calling it done for now. Tasks I need to complete prior to first start... Install the fan. Have to remove the intercooler pipe behind the fan to get access to the fan bolts. I discovered this maintenance issue this morning. No big deal, it's just something I have to deal with given the cramped space in front of the engine. Load my Wolf ECU map. I used KTMs L6 map and modified it slightly for my application. Thanks Bo! The main difference between his set-up and mine is the injector size and my lack of aux inputs/outputs. I will add more inputs/outputs (boost control, idle air control, etc.) in time but I'm keeping it simple until I get it running well. Prime/fill the engine/pump with oil Fill the transmission with oil Fill the differential with oil Fill the tank with gas Run the fuel tank vent line (need to get 1/2" ID tube too) Fill the cooling system with water and Water Wetter. No antifreeze. It rarely freezes here and the garage is climate controlled. Gap the spark plugs I'm sure there is more... Hopefully I can attempt the first start this weekend. If it doesn't happen then the next opportunity will be the weekend of the 31st. I have a spring break vacation and Cub Scout camping the two weekends in between.

You don't need anything special for a low compression turbo engine. Given the choice I would go with a S130 gear reduction starter.

Should be fine.