stprasinz

i ran the same setup, but with dished pistons... I also ran 24 psi of boost... the injectors are a little large. and the boost retard should be through the ecu(if thats what sends signal to the msd, or the msd needs a boost timing master..... or something to that effect. I think you should be able to get a usable tune at 10 psi... I'm currently running 12 psi and have a dished pistons, running a head (p90) with .074 shaved off.... I'm running a factory 300zx ecu, and haven't ran lean yet... also if your wastegate is set to 17 psi, its near impossible to ONLY RUN 10 PSI..... If you have a tune for 10 psi, you probably wanna run a9 psi wastegate for that little level of saftey.. but thats my 2 cents... Oh I also only run 93 octane.... if you mix a little (like 1-2 gallons per tan) of race fuel thats gonna give yu some leeway..... with all that being said, I'm thinking my next build is gonna be flat tops, and .080 off the head.... oh and a good sized turbo..... but thats gonna be race fuel only... (local track has it at the pump 6.99.... ok, thats my thoughts... good luck.

I got a deal 3 4" mandrel u bends for 44$!!!! add in some staright pipe, and I amgonna have about 100 total for a full 4 inch mandral the deals are there when you scour and scour and then scour some more.... but thats just the tubing, from there I'll also need a few clamps, and maybe a muffler...... or not lol..

3" come on guys... 4 inch or bigger.... lol. 3" will do wonders... and the turbo itself creates more than enough backpressure for the engine... which I'm not tryinbg to start the age old no back pressure is too much argument either lol.... but realy if they ever make a vacume for the exhaust Ill buy it, cause any back pressure is too much lol....

I have one modified for s30 chasis... how much are you trying to spend... I was gonna put it in my 77 are you upgradeing from a turbo model already? as I do need a afm for a 280zx turbo... might be able to negotiate the price down a little ya know.... oh and the mod for s30 chassis makes the ecu sit in the drivers kick panel not the passenger.... also no idle control, or emissions crap is left in the harness... what would be included is a turbo ecu, harness, maf, the encoder disc from a 300zx and the relays etc... this is a hacked harness. its modified to fit the body, eliminate unwanted stuff. will require the wires to be hooked to the coil positive side, and the coil wire attached to the transistor.(pretty much standard during the ecu upgrade) and the wires are pretty easy to do a couple positive battery wires, all the grounds, and the switched positive(ignitined hot wire) the harness has been wrapped very well with a factory type harness wrap... let me know what you think

you have a factory type you are trying to put on? like from an automatic turbo model? that nipple can be removed... not sure what thread it is, but that does come out.... I have a factory one myself.... just have to install it.. Im a procrastinator lol.... but also summit jegs etc all have the sandwhich plate adapters availible.. Just make sure you get the right thread..... hope i was helpfull...

I have a 77 2+2 and the u joints of the half axels were replaceable.... I don't know about the driveshafts..

is the circuit board different? I see they have a different number on them, but though it would be the same... shoot, guess thats whats wrong, not my chts... but changeing the resistance to the chts seemed to help...... ugh lol.....

also I have noticed sometimes its the pilot bushing, you may have to slightly back the trans out, and ty again.... just a thought... cause the disc should engage more than 3/4 inch... and that pilot bushing is dang close to the same exact size as the shaft making it tricky to alighn.. couldn't they have made it more funnel like lol

well it was the air flow meter.. the carbon track had worn ou completely so i hacked up my 77 put it in soldered the little metal tabs together whammo Now I just gotta tune the meter.. Its running dangerously lean, musta been trying to correct the carbon tracks deterioration.... ran bad ass over 4 grand at 14 psi.... lol but anyway, I got the a/f ratio down to 13-1 light throttle so it runs... limped it here.. now I gotta adjust the armature to lean the idle, cruising out, and loosen the spring up some more for wot..... but its alive!!!!!!!! and yeah I had it running on a 87 z31 ecu swap, but it started to have horrible misfires started above 5 grand but now its down to 2800.... so I swapped over to the 81 ecu... slapped my wide band on it so I'll have good ratios to up the boost and find the limit.... oh 60-1 hifi turbo...... thanks for the help though guys... I was worried about it... but its alive now...

... unfortunately no... it doesn't have any other pump mechanicle, or electrical.... actually its a 1981 turbo motor recently rebuilt running the factory ecu and such, walboro 255 pump in a 77 shell.... it was easier to say it was an 81 280zx turbo... i'm still baffled how it ran for sooooo long with the fuel pump shut off, I even have a fuel pressure gauge on it... and it says 0 psi.... As soon as i energize the pump the gauge shoots to 38-44(38 while idleing and 44 as soon as it dies.....) and the car stalls out instantly!!!!! gonna run some more tests and slap some various parts to her and see how she likes it.. gonna start by replaceing the plugs and trying to start it..... nothing more.... if that works great.. if not, I'll install the old coil I have and try that, if still nothing, original fuel pump...... from there towing it to my shop.....

just as the title says my car (1981 280zx turbo) only runs when the fuel pump is switched off.... If I energize the fuel pump the engine shuts off instantly! I had it running for approx ten minutes with no fuel pressure... hopeing that it would stall and then run correctly... with no luck.... So I decided ok some fluke here.. I'll pop off the pressure line spray fuel all over, and then it'll run right.... No I removed the pressureized side of the fuel line, and it didn't spray, none even came out!!!!!... and it still runs!!!! This is not a lie! I have my car seriously stranded at my buddies house 10 miles from its home (MY DRIVEWAY) and I'm stumped... I'm going today with the factory fuel pump, coil, new plugs, And lots of hope lol.... anyone have anything to try??? I also checked the injectors are getting pulsing signal.. If I unplug 1 it sounds different 2 it chugs 3 barely runs 4 it won't run... So I think the injectors are not the stuck open... hmmm oh andf heres an odd one, it sounds muffled?? very quiet and it was running fine before this.. I was just going to crank up the boost as a matter of fact.... now this And I might add, thats it sounds almost normal with the fuel pump off, but when you can get the fuel pump on, and the car running (the more I messed with it the less that happened to the point where now when I turn on the pump it instantly dies... wanted to throw that in, so its not the exhaust is plugged blah blah blah we were joking about a youtube video busting on the honda that ran water in the oil... this car doesn't even use fuel!!!! it runs on air, talk about fuel economy, the applications are limitless.. lol

if you want to splice into harness grab a dizzy from a maxima, or pathfinder, the dizzy harness unclips from it and the others will clip into it...

everywhere ive looked says n60.... was that a typo? as his came with a n60.. but it doesn't work..... n60 is same as maxima.... is this just myth, wrong parts?

my friend just put an rb20det into his 240sx (yeah its not a z but you guys on this forum know your shtuff) ok starts and idles fine and sorta tries to rev, but at about 2000 seems to hit a fuel cut.. it is an n62 afm ? is that the problem? thing is if i take a peice of cardboard and cut a 2 inch hole in it and cover the meter directing air over the sensor it revs fine??? I don't know what the test i did proves other than the ecu can sorta read the meter and the meter can kinda send signal to the ecu.... I tried full power to his fuel pump ( walboro 255 blah blah blah) also tried pinching the return line(NO GAUGE) no change.... Im kinda lost here.... tried a few things including cleaning afm.... please help... the n60 maf from the swap doesn't work at all... is it wired differently?

just a thought, use 87+ factory 300zx turbo rotors, and 18-19mm(whatever the outboard difference is) spacers, and the apprpriate longer bolts..... sounds like it might work, but that would be a bit of stresser on the bolts being spaced that far....

I have the same problem, but don't wanna overtighten the belt, so I live with it, I have no mechanicle fan on my car so there goes that part of the theory for me.... i figure if I tighten the belt much more, I'm causing premature wear of h20 pump and alternator bearings.... doesn't bother me too much, Ive also heard that might be a bent pulley..... could probably tell just by watching the pulleys.... I am going to remove my alt, and h20 pump pulleys, and sand blast them.... and do the harmonic also... hopefully that cures it for me...... but when I will get around to it?????

go with oem, there under 130$ and totally blow any aftermarket clean out of the water, a machine shop will try and tell you that there cast iron rings are better than any oem rings.... but they don't even compare to nissans oem.....

now if they just finish the conversion, and make it a complete z

I do agree that z31ers are diy. but for under 100$ for a bolt in v8 swap.... thats a seller there. I mean, imo that would save basicly all the headache of putting in the v8.... from there waht, headers, exhaust, fuel lines, and coolant lines thats an awsome price if you ask me!!!!

ok, cl has been doing wierd stuff like replaceing my listings with tractors and such... heres the new link to the 300 1987 300zx turbo 5 speed - $1600 and here is one for a 280zx shell (well, rolling chassis?) http://elmira.craigslist.org/cto/1611444577.html any questions, just ask...

yeah, the bolt spacing for the rims, and rotors is 114.3(4.5) at .375" (3/8). And running different rims shouldn't affect spacing of the rotors and calipers... oh, your reffereing to the spacers of the rim to caliper clearence. I was loking for the amount or thickness of spacer needed to properly space the caliper to rotor clearance... not rim to caliper clearance... thank you for the response though.. I wonder if I will nee to do something about that also though, I'll be running centerline 15's so hopefully this won't be a problem.....

of coarse there the same size, the same studs that hold the wheel on are the same studs the rotors slide over arent they.... so for a 280z I need .375" (3/8") spacers..wow, a little thicker than I expected... I guess that it wouldn't be a good idea to try and cheat it and not use any then aye.... and its not some oddly obscure size either.. also someone might wanna post this info in the sticky! like front page sort of info deal.... I searched for a while with no luck.... after reading the first page I started skimming 17 pages is alot of reading.... and this is a key ingredient in the special sauce ya know...

ok, I'm looking for the size of the spacer needed to use the s12w calipers with the 300zx rotors... I have tried to contact modern motorsports via email in the past, multiple times about multiple items, to no avail... I don't think they wanted to deal with someone looking to buy bare minimums to put there kit together for cheap.... maybe They just were on sabaticle.. I don't know, I have tried searching, I can't find the size of the spacer I need (thickness wise is all I need)....I might just have to use the age old gues and check till I find the desired thickness lol.... But I would greatly appreciate the help to simplify headaches lol..

that vaccumm deal, I think its just a heat trap, I alway eliminate mine.. I don't see any adverse effects, my heater gets warm in minutes.....

who needs to know how much fuel when going 1/4 mile at a time lol... I ran a 8 gallon in my last project..(with l28 running 24 psi) wasn't too bad, wasn't goign to get gas everytime I drove it.. wasn't a commuter, dd, more of a I think I'm gonna drive this today sorta car... Also didn't have a gas gauge either... I was happy for 100$.. Now if your looking to be makeing laps(more than 2-3) or daily driving the car, then I would go larger than 8.. Which is why I'm going with a 12 gallon this time.. Much more mild(probably 8 psi daily, high boost of only 12, yet again a l28) now the difference between it being for an rb? just the bling factor? but if I had the loot to boot, and was looking to track or daily, it would be pretty much as you described lol... good choice!