stprasinz

The original poster said "leaves no witnesses", sorry I took it for what he said... But he also said, "It should only take one or two shots to get someone down", which would indicate it is a person. So they said it in code... Boy I couldn't figure out what they said.... So you couldn't understand what he was claiming.. "Below 9mm +P, there are some legitimate concerns that the round won't penetrate into vitals through winter clothing, but above that all penetration and expansion is really enough to penetrate and disrupt vitals." Yeah still not seeing anything about it.... Now after all that being said.... "Not old enough to carry but soon.". So the person in question is under? 18, or 21? The way he put it was you can shoot the person, and good luck finding 12 people to all agree that I'm guilty, or you could be dead. So obviously the intent is fully aimed at a person, and if your shootin at someone I doubt its hey stop pow pow....... And I'm SO SORRY I mispelled one word...

wow, this on a car forum.... did your parts get stolen, get an alarm and call the police. in a car gang and parts or whole car got stolen, you and your crew get the stuff back with riot shot guns, or automatics.... but seriously go to the cops, get an alarm... now knock down power... hmmmm someone wearing bullet proof armor(not just a jacket, bullet will have penetration, just no hole... ) but a armor vest or jacket (wether its lexan under kevlar or whta ever.) there is knock down power... but honestly i don't think many of us joined to be witness to premeditted murder etc.....

there was a z3 swapped with one i believe. could do a supra I would think, camaro's or mustangs would weigh a bit much. datsun roadster? old rwd maxima's came form the factory... but a boosted one would be super sleeper! I've seen omni's with v8's stuffed in so... heck theres a rwd civic(civette) thats on youtube with a v8, but that would be alot of work(depending on fabrication level might be looked at as simple?) ah also the ford focuse came in awd in europe i believe, so rear diff and but i think that the i6 would be a bit long aking you need to cut the firewall a bit.. toyota carolla, celica, from early 80's rwd.... but I'm intereseted in what wild crazy zainy ideas that are came up with!!!! how about a locost? one of those low budget build your own sports cars.... I've thought time and time again, just never put it into action....

+i have to agree, i see time and time again, people coming here and asking for guidance, and getting bashed away...i think a general message in a specified forum that is what they are looking for is the right thing to do. if you have a problem with your taxes, do you directly go to the irs and ask specific people for help? we can be nicer, and more directing, give good advice, and let them know how thingsd work be constructive, not tear down any hope they had of this being a helpful site!!!

Ask them what they think about it. If they say its okay, then I gues its okay, to turn around and run to the next shop..... but, NO you DO NOT use aluminum for an exhaust. go with mild steel, or stainless...

I got one, what are you looking to spend... shipped from 14892 (new york) let me know what you wanna pay including shipping, adn we'll see what we can work out...

have a spare one? lol... I'm gonna have him test at clips, and at the ecu clip for pulse etc. See if I can find a noid light... maybe have him pull the coil, and test the coil for spark(since the cyl seems to do nothin starting at spark sounds better than fuel). then try installing an inj in the clip, and apply fuel press. to it..... to see if it sprays.... if the coil sparks, and the inj. sprays...... ah um lol... oh car doesn't smoe, only when the bov goes off, or from high rev drops, both are VERY suttle, and only noticable when in a well lit garage, while staring at the exhaust and its black..... so for general puposes it doesn't smoke...

boy, harness it is suspected? things weve tried, and the problem is still always cyl 4!! 1, switched coil packs 2, switched injectors to different ones 3, switched spark plugs 4, switched coil ignitor? pack we have also tested to ensure there is =,- to the coil(3 wire 2 of them are constants, other sinal) also I had tried to test for power to the injector, when I noticed with the key on both sides are constant hot? this is on all the injectors? is this normal? I'm taking the week off from his car, but if anyone thinks of something, please let me know.....

yeah, thats the plan.... but are the ka injectors the same as the rb20det? if so, I'll buy him a set if we find that to be the culprit lol

Ok,my buddy got a new ecu, it worked great. for about? 3 weeks now it (only after running a minute or 2. we looked at a lot of clips. only bad ones looked like the injectors... the subharness of 3, we replaced them (inj 1,2,3....). after replaceing them it seemed to have been fixed, went for about 50 feet down the road, stutter stutter.... so coil packs... took them all apart cleaned the tips.... still there same thing, seemed gone till test drive. so, what cyl. is it, we start pulling clips from coils, easier than the inj. clips. its cyl 4... bad pack on cyl 4?, we'll switch it with another and make sure(as his buddy about 45 minutes has a set he'll trade for my turbo.... switched the pack with a different cyl, its still on cyl. 4... ugh, so we pull plugs from 2 cyl, switch them... same thing. but when we did this the cyl. 4 plug was wet..... So????? tommorrow were tearing into it again, thinking its a injector..... but not sure yet.... anyone have some things that we can check? seems to be cyl 4? wiring, ecu, or inj.... but its also not there at initial start... and once it startsdoing it its there, like doesn't go away unless you shut it off.. if you rev the heck out of it!!! I mean scream!!! it starts at the rev down almost everytime. if you baby it under no load, it seems to take longer........ so any input would be great!!!! and how about inexpensive plugs? he claims the only ones he can get are 16$ a pop!! the plugs in it do look pretty trick, little pin tip, and the electode has a nub for spark "concentration?"

Well, just as the title says. I have here an 87 300zx running MS1 ver.3.0... Well I found out that the accell copper core super stock plug wires don't have radio suppression (even though the picture on the box is of a wire that says radio suppression....) Also I found that if you have a bad injector its really hard to tune.... ok impossible. But now I'm running on factory injectors, running factory boost.. This car is quicker than my 87 running 13psi on factory ecu!!!!! But I also have porting and polishing done, larger t3t4 turbo, 3" exhaust, and a liquid intercooler... But what I'm seeing is little to no support on information such as maps etc to the vg... If it weren't for all the L series information I wouldn't have pulled it off... but this setup pulls like a rocket compared to anything else I have at this low of boost! I can't wait to crank it up... I am hopeing to be close to my old 280zx that I had running 24 psi.... I burned my clutch out of it last time I drove it and am currenlty waiting for my ebay special stage 3 to get here... I'm hopeing this clutch will hold up till I switch to a bigger turbo... So I just wanted to shout out here.. VG30ET megasquirted up and running!!!!

dig that I love the look of the OLD SCHOOL skylines, I always thought it looked import muscle tough!!!! Now thats old school modern muscle tough!!!!! best of all 3 worlds! If you want to make an extra one and ship it here Ill take it lol..... But wow someday Ima buy a body kit.. I'd rather buy that alone instead of an entire body kit!

hello, I'm also interested in running this setup, but was under the impression it wouldn't work... I am currently running a z31(82-83 280zx turbo dizzy is the same type) Would I be able to use the same ecu hardware, or is the trigger different, and would require the other circuit? does the signal still need pull up? I figured Id use this thread, as it might help the author, and matt from diy(where I got my ecu from, fully assembled ms1 that I have FINALLY gotten running!!!) But I am curious as I love the idea of crank fired and have the 280zx turbo (81) balancer etc to run that on my 280z.... I wouldn't mind having the ability to run the l28 on megasquirt!!!!!

ok, this is a slightly old thread... Any luck getting the problems figured out? also I thought that the farther upstream you put the injector the betterhigh rpm would be? from velosity causing better mix etc... but low r's are affected. also have you thought of modifying the intake to have injector bosses in the runners? that would eliminate the problem and lastly where would the supercharger be mounted? if its going to be after the injectors then the fuel would be hopefuly atomized from the charger, if the charger is before the atomozation would be helped, but not nearly as much as if its after.....

far from haveing enough air... the tank would have to be huge!!! think of the size of the charge piping alone.. its charged at say factory 7 psi(approx) that piping would be pretty close to the equavelient of one tank.. but the air is only there for a amazingly short time... so if you charge 4 pretty good sized air tanks with say 150psi... if you found a way to discharge them in say 5 seconds it might reash 2-3 psi.... which with the added weight of the tanks etc.... you would have what you had before, without the tanks in the car... for about 5 seconds..... so in short.. it wouldn't work..... now nitrous on the other hand.. comes compressed in a bottle, and could be purchased with everything needed to install for ah say... 300$ thats new, but budget, and decent product.... now thats a tank worth filling!!!! 75 hp on tap.... good luck, keep thinking

So probably the ecu I'd think then, since the injectors work when the cas is turned... and it doesn.t seem like the cas could tell the ecu to spark all 6 coil at once... thats what the conclusion was but figured Id ask...... especially since he has a tuned ecu, that never ha worked, no sprk injectors, or fuel pump, but he had a factory one that was working til;l the other day when this happened....

ok, as thetitle says, now my buddies 240sx with rb20det swapped is not giving spark, the ignitor is getting ground to all 6 input pins from the ecu.... as a result no spark. when he touches a ground to the igntior he gets a spark... is there a faulty ground, power, or theecu fried? also you can hear the innjectors clicking when he turns the cas...... appearently he was driving when this happened... so yes it has ran (I've been in it it sure does lol....) oh and if anyone remembers my last post, I guess he did assemble the cams a tooth off from the crank so, it was fixed...... tested alot of stuff, couldn't find anything directly wrong other than the ignitor having constant grond to all 6 pins.... but why!!!!

that would also depend how much power you want to have... I have heard with triple mikunis (I can't spell I know) that 300hp out of these motors is possible. Also the farther into the realm of power you go... the farther away from longevity you also go. Now a p90 head with some porting polishing, and a mild cam. with the head milled and the valve springs to match.. parts are probably about 4-450, now the machining end would be upwards of over 500, easily. but you want to start throwing valves into it(close to 300) bronze guides are 100 or more then the price to put them in. coatings are a whole nother story, coatings alone could cost 100 for a good setup, then having the process done adds up too... also when you get more and more involved thingss like the porting and polishing take higher roles so you want expertise.. also things like polishing and deburring the combustion chamber(still a grumpy thing there I took my head with polished chambers to have it milled, they freaking sandblasted the chambers!!!!) and thats just the basics... you kinda gotta give a better description there... but say you had a head, you want it cleaned up in the ports, the local shop around here quoted me 250... add a milling at 15 a cyl. you get 90. a valve jod on a disassembled head was only 50, add a cam (approx 200) and a set of valve springs 150 and the lash pads 70. doing threat yourself with 60$ for a felpro head gasket and intake/exhaust gasket you can do it yourself for a little under 900, but plan at 1000.. that would be all new parts, and a good platform.... so if someone has a good used head, they'll put on for 500... that has the said work done... that would be the way to go... ok, I think I gave you enough to rattle your cage a bit....

well.... I guess the cam tim ing was off..... a tooth off, redid it tonight(he pulled it apart, and me being the do it kinda guy, I slapped his tiing belt back on for him... now she runs fine again... after tightenign a t bolt clamp.. lol.... thats a funny one, got it all back together take it out.. runs way better, but not quite the power it should, and it sounds super charged.... what the??? take it back pop the hood, ( after he says the timing belts too tight...) and a t bolt clamp just slides down like hi, Im loose lol... tighten that bam... back to how it was.. lower boost, but his controller isturned down so.....

ok, as the title says.. my buddy has a rb20det swap in his car (240sx, but I know youguys are the go to..) Ok heres what it is.. it runs smooth as ever, has no power, doesn't smoke, sluggish revs, he claims it doesn't build boost, but i watch the gauge go up to 9psi... timing was reset to approx 20 degrees, we have had itset there before and it ran good enough... now he just pulled the whole front end apart (radiator, fmic, acc. belts, harmonic, covers, and one tensoiner (he went to school, so I think I can trust he did that right, but he's gonna check that if no one has other hints) this thing sounds greta, but has NO POWER, like we might be able to run a stock civic... from the 80's thats beat t hell... well, or maybe not.. lol... like when he floors it, it feels like your babying it.... NO power at all... anyone????

there was one oif those for sale about 45 minutes from me ( complete 280z setup for a small block chevy no motor) only wanted 1500 was rust free.... nobody wanted to buy my car then..... oh well...... I only wanted 1600 it is an 87 300zx turbo only rust was the spots that get covered by mudflaps in the rear... runs like a champ... had 70 percent tires.. I was offered 800 and laughed in the guys face.. a few times he kept offereing thinking I was desperate lol...

No tony I didn't know that... hmmmm. but its soi bad, that if I don't run above 3000 it is gonna stall... Like sometimkes I can get it to jump back up in r's but usually if I can't gear it don to make the r's go above 3 it stalls... and as close to 3 no I don't have a digital display tach, but close to 3000..... also when I let it sit and idle, its not simple vrrrrbmrrrrrrbmrrrrrrbmrrrrrrrmrrrrrr its more like blumpblumpblump and the motor is rocking..... its really sucking, cause it runs like a rapped ape, and I can't even be happy with driving it.... slap it back to na... lol right. maybe if I sprayed a 150 shot I could live with it for a week till I realize man I spent 100$ on nitrous this week lol... tommorow Ill use my timing light and verify that the encoder disc is in right(go to plug opposite side of dizzy and make sure its timed the same..... anyway.. I thinkits something in the injection pulses... but what? what could caues this!!!!!

misfire is a gross understatement here... I have switched injectors 2+5 as per the recomendation. And I hooked up the burn off cycle wire, and burned it off once..... no luck, I tried a 2nd ecu it was worse, like that the whole way through the rpms.... ... When I first started the car it was barely noticable... heres something else when it goes into the i don't wanna run mode it also goes super lean(16.00) not enough to have the af monitor say air.. but still!!!!! Boy if i could work on it in my driveway, I'd try alot more (ie are the inj. getting signal at the lower rpms? and that sorta thing... also If I disconnect the chts it idles up pretty high, and is still really rough, just idles up... Air flow meter also has pipe before and after both 3" so its a smooth signal...oh yeah, ecu still hot... plugs all look equal and good...(proper burning)

well, its only 7 wires, I haven't checked to see if the ecu is hot, since I pulled the resistor pack out.... . what ohm are they supposed to be for the z31 ecu. I don't remember which injectors I used.. as I have 3 comlete spare sets... I may have used z31... It just seems that if there are a few others doing the same swap, then more people would have the same issue also... I did not swap injectors 2+5 but people say they don't and still have good results, and that you don't notice on idle quality and such. Kinda bumming. just had the 280zx ecu do crazt things, of course after selling my other z31 harness ecu ect... now this I was thinking I would run this ecu(the 280zx ) fired off the crank and would be safer to run methanol and higher boost since it would be crank fired well that wasn't cooperating..... oh, and its 3500 rpm for batch fire mode.. I thought it was like around 2700... hmm, thats wierd so what does the ecu do at 2700? all my 300 zx's seem to go from only about 2,3 psi to spike and full spool; at around 2700, and a large spike in power there too... Not as noticable in a complete stock, but larger turbo free'd intake(filter) and a upgraded exhaust and its a large feeling.. is tha just me lol... heck my stock 300 with a k&n filter, and straight exhaust does it and its like a huge torque thrust in that.... but now I'm babbleing, I just think if I knew what the ecu was doing A( thats why I mentioned the batch fir thought thats when that happened) I would think it would be easier to diagnose...

Ok I just swap the 300zx ecu per the afshin write up, well actually 280z turbo's write up, with it being an 81...well I'm haveing a problem with horrible rough seems like only 3 cylinder when below 2700-3000?? seems like it may be related to batch firign mode? But heres something to make it weirder. When I first did the swap, I left the resistor pack in place. It ran perfecty fine with them in place. I haven't tried to reinstall them, because thats a pain of wiring that back up, and seems like that since they aren't supposed to be there.... (84 ecu, 280zx turbo inectors) and the ecu also seems to be relatively hot, well MUCH hotter than normal.... I hope someone can help..