jeffp

I everyone, well I have been trying to get a company to make a reliable electric water pump for our cars as I think it would be an excellent addition for an upgrade with an electric fan. I first contacted Moroso and they were not interested in doing a unit for our engines. The customer service guy suggested an external pump for the car. I also found another company that did an external unit, but I really did not like all of the hardware that was involved, and I would have to machine a plate for the front of the block anyway. I was at the Orange Co car show a number of weeks ago and found another manufacturer of electric water pumps, a company named CSI electric water pumps. I decided to give them a call and discuss a pump for our cars. I bought their general pump that is used in many of their applications and took it apart. The motor is a very good unit, and it is made here in the USofA and I really liked that also. In talknig with the customer srevice guy there I asked if they could do a pump for our application and he said they would be willing to give it a shot. I sent him a front cover and pump today, so we will see how far that goes with them. I really hope they will do a pump, it will be such a killer upgrade with a new aluminum cross flow radiator for my car and everyone else. I asked about how long thet would last and the guy has one on his car for about two years now as hid daily driver with no problems at all. That sounds like it will fit the bill for me. So I'm crossing my fingers that they will do a pump for the Nissan engines, it will look so cool, and keep a good amount of flow. The pump as it is now flows about 35 gallons a minute and that should be more then enough flow for our cars. that is about it now. jeffp

I used paint stripper on mine the first time I painted my car. I went to home depot and got the stripper in the gold can, I dont remember the brand, but it did not touch the part or mess it up. The second time, and I wouls suggest this as the best way is to take it to a shop and have them blast the parts. You will get the cleanest part and then you can wet sand the part and make it very flat for painting. I like the second method best as the parts turned out very nice after painting.

I am running 475 foot pounds of torque through my cv type half shafts and have had no problems with them. I dont see the rational that universal joints are stronger then the CV joints. Think about this, a universal joint has two ends with caps and roller bearings that connect them together. The CV joints have three stubs with roller bearings connecting the ends together. We are talking about 30% more metal area connecting the two parts together. I'm not a rocket scientist, but it seems to me the more metal contact area you have the stronger the part will be, it's like comparing a stock Nissan drive line universal joint to a chevy or ford universal joint, there is simply more metal there and the universal is bigger and beefier. a 5/8 peice of round stock is stronger then a peice of 1/2" round stock because there is more metal there, same concept with the universal/cv joint situation. Now there are other considerations like hardness of the metal to deal with, the harder the metal the more apt it is to break under a shock condition then a softer part, but the fact that there is more contact points and metal contact area on the CV joint leads me to believe they are much stronger then a universal joint from the get go. just my 02

that is a rare bird you have there. From all of the information I have been able to get, there was a single production run of 50 made by Torsen and that is it. You may want to give David at Malvern Racing a call, he has worked with that unit some in the past and just may be able to answer your question. That is the very best diff you can get in the way of a posi unit. Quaife also makes a unit, and that is what I bought, for the very reason you are asking about. They still have the unlimited hp warranty, and free repair of the unit. The Torsen unit has zero support as you have found out. In fact when I called them the customer service guy said they never made a unit for an R200 diff, so that gives you some idea of how old the diff is. They are excellent units. To me the .150 is not excessive, but it will make noise in the car. All diffs have a fair amount of play between the side gears(in this case the barber pole gears)Talk to David and he will help you out.

I have done a good amount of research on this subject and have found there are a good number of cams out there that were not heat treated the proper way and that is the reason for most of the bad wear tendancies. The cam is a cast part, I have yet to find a forged stick, or a billet stick. I dont think they exist. Allot of the after market guys dont heat treat the billet and here istheproblem. The stock Nissan cam is cold chilled treated and it is a much better hardness treating then the standard heat treating of the stick. They are harder and way less susceptable to the heavy scoring you find on allot of cams. The rockers have a silver soldered contact pad, and they also are heat treated. The best setup you could do is to get a stock Nissan Cam(or make sure the billet you are buying iss cold chilled hardness treated) and have a grinder grind the specs you want. True the base circle will be smaller, but you can correct the geometry with the lash pads. I would like to look into the chevy luv rocker. I would be willing to be they have a 1.5 rocker ratio and not the 1.45 rocker ratio like the stock Nissan rocker. I got mine from MSA and thay were alright. I did not take the time to determine the exact rocker ratios of them. I guess I should have just to be sure. A good placeto get a cam is at Elgin cams, they use good sticks and they acn grind what ever you want. They are priced very good. Talk to John, he will set you up with a good part. I think I will give Dave a call at innovator about the rockers.

I was looking at the docs on the parts and it is looking like they will not work together at all, oh well. I think I am going to go ahead and go with the .68 fifth. I do like the topend, I would rather have a 170 topend and gain a little torque, but I dont think that is going to happen. I have mentioned before what I would like to run in the 1/4 for top speed of 150mph, but that is an ideal right now. I like the 3.71 diff gear, but the 3.54 gear would do exactly what I want it to, but since I just dropped 1800.00 to have a Quaife bought and setup with the 3.71, I am going to keep that. Really I am looking at another significant round of upgrades for the car. I am waiting on a few parts, but I want to knock out all of the upgrades at once. Tranny, clutch modified for the tremec, radiator(aluminum) harmonic dampener, oil pump drive gear(brass gear) turbo, manual rack & pinion, differential, comp oil pan, and that should be about it until I can get with JWT to finish up the upgrades to the fuel management. THEN, the car will be done, I swear LOL

Ok here are the calculations. The wheels are 245X45X15 on my car and the engine RPM is 7000. The rear gear ratio is 3.71 Tremec TKO with .83 overdrive: 1st) 3.27=41mph 2nd) 1.98=67mph 3rd) 1.34=99mph 4th) 1.00=133mph 5th) 0.83=160mph Tremec TKO with .68 overdrive 1st) 3.27=41mph 2nd) 1.98=67mph 3rd) 1.34=99mph 4th) 1.00=133mph 5th) 0.68=195mph Standard Borg Warner T5 in 280ZX 1st) 3.50=38mph 2nd) 2.144=62mph 3rd) 1.378=96mph 4th) 1.00=133mph 5th) .780=170mph That is about it on the T5 and the TKO tranny. I would like to keep the .780 overdrive in the car, but I guess I can live with the .68 overdrive. I just may be able to swap out the gears from the standard Nissan T5 with the gear set from the TKO unit, but I would have to check on that one.

I have looked into both trannies. The Richmond tranny is not as strong as you might think. I called and asked andthe comment was that guys are trying to get power in 6th with a 502 crate motor and they cant handle it. Also the shifter is off center and that is a big problem for our cars , especially if you want to keep it looking stock like me. The gear ratios are very close. I did the tranny calculator and between 2nd and 3rd you gain only 20mph, fifth is 1:1 and 6th is .780 or so. So there really is not benefit to using that unit. The T56, well again there is not allot advantage to using that tranny. I also did the calculator on that unit and you HAVE to run the chevy tranny, NOT the viper tranny. You have massive modifications to do. I found a guy that would do the bell housing for 600.00 and then you have to buy the tranny. The unit is rated at 425 foot pounds of torque so since I am already over that figure UI dont think, for me I should bother with it. NOW the tremec T5 TKO (ford unit) is looking like the winner. it has the gear ratios that are close to the T5 stock for the turbo cars, it will handle more Torque, and I can run it on the strip, so for me, it's the TKO and that wil be what I install in my car.

ok, here is what you should do. First let me rant a little. Not saying you do this, but I will never understand why people have problems with their fuel management and dont take the time to effectivly trouble shoot the entire system to determine exactly what is wrong. ok, now I am done with that. From your O2 readings you have a couple problems that could cause the lean condition. The first thing you should do is get a fuel pressure gauge on the car and make damn sure the fuel pump can and does provide the required amount of fuel for the engine. The fuel gauge should never decrease in pressure, unless you let off the throttle, so when you come up on boost the pressure should increase 1 psi per 1 psi of boost, you should NEVER see a wavering gauge needle when you are increasing boost. Really the very best way to check the system is this. figure out what your max boost will be, then get a regulated air supply and push the fuel pressure up to 36.6 + the boost boost psi(36.6 + 15 psi boost= 51.6 or 52 psi at the fuel gauge.) then calculate how much power you want from the engine and convert that to fuel requirements in cc's (example 60hp per cylinder requires say 400cc's per minute) then you add all of the injector flow rates together 2400cc's per minute. then you pressure up the regulator with your boost from the regulated air source(a mig welder 02 bottle and regulator works excellent) turn the pump on and put the return line into a gallon jug. Time it for a minute and see how much fuel is in the jug, if you are less then what you calculated for cc's per minute, then you need a better pump. You can do all of this without ever cranking the engine, and that is where allot of guys go wrong, they setup their cars to do 350-450hp and they dont have a delivery system that will provide enough fuel from the start and wonder why they have problems. You just have to check the whole system, and then decide where you need improvements. hope that helps

Yea that turbo diesel has caught a few people's eye. I thought it was cool, so I put it on. It is true the engine is stroked with a LD28 crank and that is why I put it there. Tell you guys what, if someone was willing to let me have their car for a while(has to be a turbo application) I would be willing to make a custom mandrel 3" system for the 240 cars. The problem with all of it is that my bender has to make a minimum run of 15 sets to make them after I have designed the proto system. Maybe there are enough turbo 240's out there to make it worth all the time and effort. I csn terll you one thing tho, the system flows excellent snd it sounds excellent also.

I have run holly carbs and carter(edelbrock) carbs. You want the best carb for your application, get an older carter 625 competition series carb. You can find them on ebay. They are easy to tune and rebuild, there is a a strip kit you can get for them with various sizes of jets and needle jets. The mechanical linkage can be adjusted to open perfect for your application. The carb is good for the street and the strip, they are very good on an incline. I ran a holly 600 with vacuum secondary and it worked well, but there are things about the holly carb that is a total pain in the butt. back fires for what ever reason has a good chance of blowing the power valve (I know they have a fix for that but cant remember what it was) jetting the carb is a total pain in the butt, you have to take the bowls off and all the fuel gets everywhere, so you really need to take it off the car to do the work. The carter can be jetted on the car and that is a real time saver. The holly has a tendancy to flood out on a good incline, the carter does not have that problem at all. I found this out when I installed a holly on my friends jeep and tried to four wheel it, total flood, he took a carter off the engine and it NEVER had any problems with any incline. I ran my 625 on a 302 bored 30 over and it worked excellent. I was totally sold on the carb when I started using it, it is easy to tune, and it is simple, parts are cheap. I think dollar for dollar it is the best buy.

I have a system you may be interested in. Http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt just click on the exhaust thumb on the front page and take a look.

Give Robello racing a call. I think they have just what you want sitting on the shelf ready to go. Talk to Dave and tell him Jeff Priddy sent you.

You might want to give Elgin cams a try, they do cams for Robello Racing. They will also gring you what ever you want in addition to a few turbo cams they have designed.

The part really is not a sensor at all but more accuretly a reed relay. The part is cased in a plastic part that is mounted in the gear area of the speedo. You will know it by the two wires that come from it. The relay works with the cruise control and with the voice warning. If you take the speedo and put it near your ear(if your heraing is good) and spin the speedo where the cable connects so that the speedo will register 5 mph when you spin it, you will hear the relay click. I dont have any pictures, but maybe some are in order since this topic has come up a number of times. The relay is activated by a small magnet in the assembly. hope that helps.

ok here we go. The car running bad has nothing to do with the speed sensor or the speedo. That is a totally all together different problem with your car. The speed sensor, thare is the problem with your cruise control. You dod not configure the sensor correctly. the 85 mph and the 120mph speedo has a different sensor. Both sensors are the same kind of part, so if you find the two wires on both sensors you have it almost licked. The thing to do is to look at the 85mph speedo and where the wires from the sensor hooks up to the back plain of the cluster. You dont need to worry about the other wires as they are for the service light on the left side of the cluster, and after 90K you disconnect the green barrel connector on the passenger side of the dash and it is done. So dont worry about those wires. You want the wires that are connected to the reed relay (sensor) and those arwe the ones you hook up to your stock gauge cluster. Find out where the connect from the stock unit and simply hook up the new speedo sensor in the same place and it should be just fine. I did my car a number of years ago and have had zero problems with the setup. Now I am looking into getting a shop in my area to take the stock 85mph unit and make it a 160mph speedo. they will need to make a new overlay, and recalibrate the unit and it is done. I looked at the MSA unit and I did not like the way they did the numbers, so now I am going to do it my way.

Hi there hoodwink, I dont know for the life of me why people say the stroker engine is not good. I did my engine to 3.0 I could not justify the 89mm bore for a turbo application. I wanted a little more meat there. I did things different from most on my engine. I increased the rod/stroke ratio of the engine and increased the stroke as well the bore. I am making the same power at 20psi as a stock L28 bottom end at 25-26psi,, so you can see there are advantages to the increased swept volume. I wanted an engine that would last a good long time so that is the reason for the 88mm bore, andI wanted to be sure I could run the boost levels high and not break parts. I did not oring the block, but used ARP studs and a metal head gasket and have had zero problems with it. My cylinder head is ported and somewhat polished. I did not go with a full race setup because again I wanted it to last a good long time. I did port match the intake, and the exhaust as best as possible without taking to much meat out of the head. I am speaking mostly of the exhaust, the intake is port matched perfectly with the intake. I built the bottom bullet proof for the most part, so I would not have to worry about it. I paid 5400.00 for the bottom end parts and assembly, and I provided the crank. I went with clevite 77 bearings, larger premium wrist pins and total seal rings. Je forged pistons, and somewhat of a mirror image of the combustion chamber on the top of the piston to inhibit detonation. I can run 91 octane fuel @ 11psi of boost without any problems. I know this sounds like it is not much, but when you stop to consider the stock compression of an L28 is 7.4:1 and I am running 8.5:1 there is quite a significant difference onder all conditions boost and non boost conditions. I tried to taylor the engine and the compression in such a way that I could get the hp numbers I wanted without getting a totally monster turbo to give me the required air flow and cylinder pressures to get some good power from the engine. I have often times wondered what the engine would be like if I had set the static compression to 9:1 very good off boost response in that case and the turbo could be a little smaller still to get good power. I like having good power off boost and really like the power increase under boost when I want it. so that is about it for me. I say go for it and build it beefy, overkill is not going to hurt you at all, and just may prove to be a saving factor for you one day. have a good one, jeff

That is about the size of it. I used the 1/2" spacre on my setup to move the compressor housing away from the exhaust manifold and installed an aluminum shield ovet the compressor also. The spacer I used was cut out very nicely so I bolted it to the manifold and went to work. then I bolted the spacer to the turbo inlet and port matched that side also, and smoothed the turbo inlet. I did remove some of the material from each inlet on the head side of the manifold and made them about the width of a sanding roll. You can remove some of the material, but you need to be careful not to make the sides to thin. I took it to where I thought it flowed better, but not so much I thought I would get a crack.

Hi everyone, I was looking on zcar today and this guy is saying he can make a header to fit the T3 exhaust turbine housing and a T4 housing. Both units are equal length header primary tubes. The T3 setup has square ports with a 1 1/2" pirmary tube. The T4 setup is 1 5/8" tubes. Both setups require an external waste gate installed on them. and now that I thought of it, where would you think the best place would be for the waste gate to be installed, keep in mind this is a header type configuration, so there is a limited place to install a waste gate. What do you think the gains would be with this setup. I know the pulses from the exhaust will be better, and I am relatively sure it will breath better then the stock manifold (at the exhaust port inlet to the manifold). I dont know many people running a header so the real life data is not to available. What do you think it would do on the car? I was contemplating the 1 1/2" primary tubes, it seems to me they would provide a better velocity for the pulses coming out of the exhaust. I would be willing to do this setup on my car if I can get better efficency of the exhaust to drive the exhaust turbine.

What does one of these differentials cost? Do they come in a LSD application. And how much demand is there for them? Thanks guys and gals.

Guys, and Gals BTY Donna, VERY nice. I know you are looking at the data available to you on compressor maps and from what you have to work with you are correct, the T66 wheel will be much better. However, there is more there then meets the eye when selecting a compressor/and wheel. You also need to look at the slide ratios between compressor and turbine. You need to look at the speeds of the wheel @ it's desired PR and flow rates and match that up to the exhaust turbine wheel or you will have a doggy turbo. All of us see the information on the compressor maps, we dont get the diameter of the compressor wheels, and that is a factor also. We dont get the information of how this thing will react with the selected exhaust turbine and wheel. You need to look at the compressor housing and it's efficiency, and compair that whth the selected wheel also. All of these factors come into play when you put together a turbo application and hope to get it to do what you want it to do. Allot of the information out there is very sketchy at best, so we need to get better data on all of this stuff. I have been fortunate enough to get some inside information from the engineering departmants like Garret, data that is real life, turbo's that have been put together and tested. I am not going to say I am right and you are wrong, but I have had the opportunity to talk to a few people regarding what I have selected and this setup appears to be a winner. I have also been able to find a guy that is running very close to what I have put together and again this setup appears to be a winner. I guess where the rubber meets the road is how will it operate on my engine and that will tell all at the end of the day. additionally, if this does not turn out the way I think it is going to, I have the option to get the unit changed until I do get exactly what I want. I think 1000-7000 power band will do LOL This will be the third turbo on my car in a progression to the final build. When I reach that point that will be done, and the performance of the car completed. I realize there will be other cars that put out more power, have easier fuel management in the way of tuning, but when my car is to where I want it then hey someone wants more, then more power to them LOL I want 600hp at the crank and that is as far as I want to go. I could also do the work on the body of the car to improve it's strength and go farther, but I dont want a total drag car that I have to trailer and go to the track every time I want to drive the thing. anyway, thanks for all of your input on the matter, it's discussions likethese that make the difference with any build of these cars, you guys are the greatest. Jeff

If you aregetting a gray matter like substance, there is only one way that can be made. Water in the oil will turn it grey so check to make sure you dont have water leaking into the cylinders, or the oiling system some way. The key here is the gray, that means water and oil are getting mixed somehow.

That sounds about what I calculated. I think my figures were about 1032 CFM I used another formula and not theturbo application formula and they seem to match up just about right.

I did do the studs on the main caps also already. That kind of stuff was a given for me. I was a little concerned about the rod bolts also, but when I talked to Brian Crower about the bolts they wereusing on their rods he informed me that they were a better quailty stud then the ARP parts I was thinking of installing, so I went with their stuff. The best you can get are the rods and bolts David at malvern sells the Corrello rods and bolts, but at 265.00 each, that was a little more money then I wanted to spend. The bolts alone ran 35.00 each. I guess if I really wanted to spend some serious cash I would have gone with the Corrello rod assemblies, and a skat custom crank forthe bottom end. I have entertained of doing a 84mm stroke crank setup on another engine, but that is just a thought at this point. When I first started thinking of building the engine I looked at some places for various parts and it all totaled about 10K for the parts I wanted to setup just forthe bottom end and a head, but I had to be a little realistic about it. I think my wife would have killed me over that one, and I almost got it over the seats LOL, but she cant say to much about it. I haven't used a dime of her money doing all this stuff and I like that allot. So I dont complain about the phone bill and she doesn't complain about how I spend my money, good deal I think.

well I had a buddy in high school that built a dstroke 400 and installed that in a chevy II that car hauled butt. That engine sounded like it was already up to rpm's and just went down to idle, really cool build. This was a guy that pulled 11 second quarter miles out of a 307 in a vega.