Leon

Part of the reason for my recent trend of little Z-work:

Brady, I'm embarrassed it's taking me so long! All that's left is mouting the box and running the wires. I need to find where I put those nice wires and shielded cables that I bought and make a relay bracket. Then fix the laptop and we're ready to go! In regard to Weber driveability, I've spoken to Keith Franck (from Sidedraft Central) and will be coming by his house in the near future to test out his new custom e-tubes and idle jets (yay for being local!). Those, along with Megajolt should make this thing run as well as a triple-carb'd engine possibly can! Damn, you have me motivated now! I need to get at least some of this stuff done, THIS weekend.

I'm talking about the picture that shows what center and offset mean: pipe inlet and outlet locations.

You mean the L20B? That's a 4-cylinder engine, the pan would be too short.

It pained me that I didn't have the space for it! It sold for $8k!!! I was sad... Thanks Ross! I agree on the Panasports, I love the look. They seem to look great on a lot of classics. When in doubt, Panasport. Thanks to Brian for those, BTW! I'm looking forward as well! Keep up the work and you'll be done before you know it.

Exactly! It has very little to do with r/s ratios and strokes. It's about the weight of your reciprocating parts. The rev limit definitely has something to do with stroke length, r/s ratio has a relatively minor effect. The prevailing logic...

The photo in the link shows it pretty well. I believe people typically use a center-in, offset-out setup on the S30.

Of course it has to happen right before a long road trip, but hey, at least it didn't happen during! Sounds electrical and possibly heat-related. Ignition module, possibly. Are you using a ZX distributor?

There is no best. What are you confused about?

Good info, Dan. I was always curious as to the actual weight differences between the two.

Here are a couple of threads to wade through, if not just for the videos: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/87781-400hp-na-32l-how-is-this-happening/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90037-japanese-na-l6-400hp-how-they-do-it-pictures-ive-found-etc-not-56k-safe/

There are no discernible differences here. This is the problem with anecdotal evidence, the people that post this don't fully understand the situation. The reason people think L28s rev slower or lower is because of the cam. Put a hotter cam in and rev it to 8000rpm. Forged pistons are needed for ventures above ~7200rpm. If you want to go that far, the L28 rotating assembly can be lightened and balanced just as well. You'll have the response you want with more power and torque. This is the point, the difference in how it "feels" is minimal if not completely negligible. The only difference between the two engines would be that you'd have a conversation piece where you get to say that you built an engine using X crank, Y rods, and Z pistons. That'll about be the only difference, and if you're happy with that then build it. In the spirit of Hybrid Z, build whatever you want and whatever makes you happy. However, let's be logical about this and not ignore facts. An L28 can easily give you the "feel" that you're after, likely with less expense, less time, and better performance. You can find plenty of threads with high-revving, fast-response time L28s.

Bingo!

In all honesty, and this is the stuff discussed in other threads, the characteristics of the engine will not be noticeably different from a well-done L28. Again, I'm not telling you what to do or what you're doing is wrong. All a destroked engine achieves is having a slightly higher rev limit. The L28, with a lightweight flywheel and clutch combo will respond very quickly to inputs and rev plenty high. You speak of the characteristics of this engine compared to an L28 but you don't mention what those characteristics are. What are those characteristics that you're trying to achieve?

Stock brakes with the proper friction compound will help you achieve that, no need for big, heavy calipers. Brake pad choice is extremely important. Fresh brake fluid is also key. As far as I'm concerned, the only time these calipers could benefit you is on long track sessions. Otherwise, they're just sitting there, increasing unsprung weight.

Please say no. Building an engine for the sake of r/s ratio is like choosing your wife based on the proportions of her toes. Many have fantasized about his kind of build, and the conclusion is always that there is no good performance reason behind it. If you're building it for the sake of building it, have at it. But don't expect it to perform better than a fine-tuned L28.

Download the appropriate FSM from the "Reference" section and have at it.

If your dipstick reads low, add oil. Make sure the dipstick fully seats before taking a reading.

Nice job!

Simply awesome!

Here are some recent and semi-recent pics. I plan on clay-barring the paint soon as well. As you can see, I've been driving it more than anything! At work At home With Delorean's Z at Cars & Coffee The twins Derek's trigger wheel and sensor mount, mounted. Thanks Ross! Interior, gross old carpets have since been removed and I plan on getting new ones in the near future. Also thinking of selling the seats, they're a bit small for me and sit me a little high. My neighbor's pristine green/butterscotch Z, which I helped sell recently. Wish I had the space.

Not trivial at all. The damping fluid controls the rise of the piston during acceleration (don't go there!). Higher viscosity oil will enrich the mixture during transient acceleration conditions and lower viscosity will lean it out. It also has the potential to get eaten by the engine if you pour in too much so make sure that it's something compatible with a combustion chamber.

Look for a 260Z 2+2 with manual trans (good luck, I'd say it's the rarest US production chassis/drivetrain), or post a WTB ad. They come up from time-to-time.

His Z is EFI and turbocharged. A turbocharged car will feel the effects of increased exhaust backpressure more, but it should only be a couple of hp. But you bring up a good point. Sito, double-check your AFRs.