Leon

He went from twin SUs to 45s, don't think there were 40s involved. Besides that, torque has be gained from going to properly-tuned 45s from properly-tuned 40s, otherwise power would drop... If you're trying to get an answer about bigger carbs making less low-end torque, well that's not true. That is, unless you also decrease total intake length along with the carbs. The biggest factor here is the venturi size, as that is what incurs a large part of the pumping losses in a carburetted intake system. A bigger venturi equals less losses, to a point. If you have giant carbs on a tiny engine, you may kill your vacuum signal enough to make tuning very difficult.

The DCOE151 also has air bypass screws, which let you equalize both barrels of the same carb. That's a really handy feature. As Matt mentioned, some have had issues with progression hole placement in the 151. A user here (duragg) dealt with that by drilling a new hole and plugging one old one. FWIW, I paid $600 for a used set of DCOE18 carbs a few years ago, manifold and linkage included. I bolted them on and have been running them for over a year and a half.

I only hear my fan on initial cold starts (no shroud, stock fan and clutch). It goes away after about 30 seconds of warmup. I did have a locked up fan clutch when I got the 260, it was noisy as hell and noticeably robbed power. Oh those wonderful previous owners...

Download the FSM at xenons30.com Go to atlanticz.ca and look in the tech tips section. Diagnose your problems first before throwing parts at it.

Not a problem and good luck. That should at least take care of any possible carb issues you may be having.

You got her information and called the police, yes?

Check out the Sidedraft Central Yahoo group, it's the best info for the DCOE out there. Specifically, refer to Keith Franck's White Tuning Paper.

Ok, I'll concede that stock brakes may be inadequate for 3 hours of endurance racing.

I warned you. But did you listen to me? Oh nooo, you kneeew didn't you? Oooh, it's just a harmless little bunny, isn't it? It's always the same, I tell 'em...

Cool, it's nice to have a native Japanese person here. You can translate all that super-secret Japanese L-series stuff for us! You should come out to a meet sometime.

A misfire reads lean on a wideband, whether it's due to a lean or rich condition. A wideband senses the amount of O2 in the exhaust, not HC.

Gotcha, I didn't remember that muffler being on there. I'm getting ready to build an L28 as well, I guess we'll see how long that will take...

Well done.

Look, that rabbit's got a vicious streak a mile wide! It's a killer!

Nice shots! I see you got that muffler on there, too.

Did you not bother with the link above?

This is somewhat unclear, but it sound like you just glued the HEI module to the aluminum and attached the aluminum to the body. This electrically isolates the module and thus you have no ground connection. Read what NewZed said.

This is what a pump is for. Speed and gravity effects are competely negligible. Don't know who told you this... I doubt anybody uses Plan B, I think your diagram is incorrect. You show two parallel lines feeding the carbs, there is no reason to do this. As I said, it is the most effective way of regulating the pressure to the carbs. A downstream pressure regulator in-line with the fuel return is basically a variable orifice. It varies how much fuel passes through back to the tank. If the regulator is fully open (no restriction), then you'll have zero pressure. If it's fully closed, then you'll have the dead-head pump pressure. You want something in between. This allows for you to have the right pressure at all times, no matter what, since the regulator can quickly shut the orifice to bump pressure or open up the orifice to decrease pressure. That's what I mean by fast response time. This also allows for constant fuel flow from the fuel tank, aiding in fuel cooling.

Either find a stock SU heat shield or make one. Browse for sale listings and post in the WTB classifieds.

Just measured my hub adapter, sorry for the delay! I kept forgetting about it and have the Z at work today so I grabbed my ruler and it measured out to approximately 3.125". This is a less than 1-year-old Momo hub.

I can measure my hub tonight as well.

My Momo Race and hub are spaced exactly where the stock wheel was. It depends on the amount of dish the aftermarket wheel has and the length of the adapter. Get a flatter wheel, use an adapter and you'll be fine. I don't know of any smaller diameter wheels that fit the 240Z steering shaft splines.

Take the ducting off when you're driving on the street.

No, the bushing should not cause notchiness, unless the washer you inserted is interfering with something. Install a new bushing and see how it feels. If you still get notchiness in 2nd, then I'd say your syncro is going out. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html You can try other fluids after that, there were recent discussions on varying transmission fluids.

Plan A makes the most sense. You will have an almost instantaneous response time with the regulator there and you will constantly be flowing cool fuel through the lines. Plan B makes no sense (redundant lines), and C is the same as A. Plan D works but wont regulate and dissipate heat as well as A. Josh's plan makes the fuel pump work harder, thus heating up the fuel more and also slows the response time of the regulator.