Leon

Yup, MT-90 is exactly what I used and linked above.

Great! The FSM prescribes API GL-4 for the transmission and GL-5 for the diff. I use Redline, and it shifts great. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=133&pcid=4 I buy mine from Gotelli's in SSF.

Very cool, this is from a guy on classiczcars.

Love it! That's a great looking Z! Does it see any street duty?

I also recommend getting Keith Franck's float level tool, it's a great way to get a very accurate float setting. The main circuit is magnitudes more sensitive to float height than the idle/progression circuit.

Higher profile tires will fill out the wells much better. I assume those are 15 inch wheels, and you're using 205/50 tires. That makes for a 23" tall tire. Stock overall tire diameter is about 24.8".

I have a similar set, they were made in similar styles by a few different companies. I don't think I've seen them with large negative offsets and they're definitely not stock for any Z (260Z's all came with steelies and wheel covers from the factory).

What are they worth to you? If you're willing to pay $1000, then do it. It really comes down to condition. If they were bought new, put on the car and never run, then maybe it's worth it. I can't tell you, as I don't know your budget nor see the carbs you're referring to. Also, what makes you think they need a rebuild? Everyone wants to "rebuild" every part they get but it's not necessary in many cases. What you need to do is a good inspection and if everything checks out, then run them. As I said, I got my DCOE 18s for $600. All I did was replace some dried-out o-rings and have run them ever since. Not sure how to address the sudden derailment to electronic ignition...

I'd pull the valve cover and check for loose parts. If everything checks out then set valve lash.

The transmission is the rear diff, they're the same unit, it's called a transaxle.

He went from twin SUs to 45s, don't think there were 40s involved. Besides that, torque has be gained from going to properly-tuned 45s from properly-tuned 40s, otherwise power would drop... If you're trying to get an answer about bigger carbs making less low-end torque, well that's not true. That is, unless you also decrease total intake length along with the carbs. The biggest factor here is the venturi size, as that is what incurs a large part of the pumping losses in a carburetted intake system. A bigger venturi equals less losses, to a point. If you have giant carbs on a tiny engine, you may kill your vacuum signal enough to make tuning very difficult.

The DCOE151 also has air bypass screws, which let you equalize both barrels of the same carb. That's a really handy feature. As Matt mentioned, some have had issues with progression hole placement in the 151. A user here (duragg) dealt with that by drilling a new hole and plugging one old one. FWIW, I paid $600 for a used set of DCOE18 carbs a few years ago, manifold and linkage included. I bolted them on and have been running them for over a year and a half.

I only hear my fan on initial cold starts (no shroud, stock fan and clutch). It goes away after about 30 seconds of warmup. I did have a locked up fan clutch when I got the 260, it was noisy as hell and noticeably robbed power. Oh those wonderful previous owners...

Download the FSM at xenons30.com Go to atlanticz.ca and look in the tech tips section. Diagnose your problems first before throwing parts at it.

Not a problem and good luck. That should at least take care of any possible carb issues you may be having.

You got her information and called the police, yes?

Check out the Sidedraft Central Yahoo group, it's the best info for the DCOE out there. Specifically, refer to Keith Franck's White Tuning Paper.

Ok, I'll concede that stock brakes may be inadequate for 3 hours of endurance racing.

I warned you. But did you listen to me? Oh nooo, you kneeew didn't you? Oooh, it's just a harmless little bunny, isn't it? It's always the same, I tell 'em...

Cool, it's nice to have a native Japanese person here. You can translate all that super-secret Japanese L-series stuff for us! You should come out to a meet sometime.

A misfire reads lean on a wideband, whether it's due to a lean or rich condition. A wideband senses the amount of O2 in the exhaust, not HC.

Gotcha, I didn't remember that muffler being on there. I'm getting ready to build an L28 as well, I guess we'll see how long that will take...

Well done.

Look, that rabbit's got a vicious streak a mile wide! It's a killer!