Leon

The L28e made exactly 0 fwhp. Now if you're talking bhp, then It was rated around 140-170 bhp, depending on what standard you're talking about.

I have a brand-new, never used Holley Red. Also have brand-new, matching AN lines, fittings and filter. Was planning on using it but changed my mind. PM if interested.

That's the coupling and is held in by a pin. You have to knock out the pin in order to remove it. New ones are available from Nissan, probably in the updated metal style (the plastic ones were clearly not as durable). Looks like the part number is 22119-W0400. I broke mine while rebuilding my ZX dizzy.

Okay, I understand. However, air horn placement/intake length/design has an effect at least a magnitude greater than 5hp at that power level.

D'oh! No hole for the float bowl vent!

Good to know, thanks for the feedback!

Mark, It comes down to what you're looking for. My suggestion would be to use straight runners up to the air horn, with the diameter matched to the intake port. Make the runners as straight as possible. I haven't done design work with multi-runner plenums, so can't help much there. Air horns are not trivial, especially if you're making your own intake. Air horn geometry has a noticeable effect on powerband, with a longer (less-tapered) air horn having a weaker effect but spread over a larger RPM band, and a shorter (larger taper) air horn having a stronger resonance effect but over a smaller RPM range. Where you put the horn also matters. The powerband shifts to higher rpm as the horn is placed closer to the intake valve. What this means is that if you really want to optimize your setup, you'll have to do some trial-and-error. Calculations will get you close, but nothing is conclusive without actual testing. If you want to test different lengths and horn placements, you could either build a few iterations of intakes or an adjustable-length intake. For an adjustable-length intake, it can be something like having the runner that is bolted to the head house a removable joint which lets you slip-on different lengths of intake pipes with different combos of air horns. Not sure if you want to go through all the effort, just a thought in case you do.

Mark, FWIW, taper and maintaining air velocity are used for wet intake runners (carburation or PFI) in order to keep the fuel atomized. You may be better off having a larger, straight runner with a tapered air horn at the end. It all depends on how you're injecting the fuel, but any way you look at it, higher air velocity and decreasing runner diameter equals more pumping losses. I've made some detailed posts about intake design, if you're interested: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105783-ideal-intake-runner-taper/

Good to hear, I'm actually looking for a seat that will drop me lower than stock. I'm 6'2" and don't really fit with a helmet on, even with worn-out stock seats. Any more pics or info on the seat rails? Thanks for the insight!

Damn, that is frickin sweet!

Simply beautiful! Do those seats sit you lower than stock? I suppose the answer depends on what seat rails you use...

Sounds like a hydraulic problem. Properly adjust the rod going to the clutch master and then bleed the system.

I wouldn't do anymore spinning until you have some lubricant in there. Acetone works but use it outdoors. Personally, if I were to clean the inside of a transmission case, I'd just use rubbing alcohol from a spray bottle.

Damn Robert, you got that swap done quick! Shows you how much preparedness really matters.

Yup, MT-90 is exactly what I used and linked above.

Great! The FSM prescribes API GL-4 for the transmission and GL-5 for the diff. I use Redline, and it shifts great. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=133&pcid=4 I buy mine from Gotelli's in SSF.

Very cool, this is from a guy on classiczcars.

Love it! That's a great looking Z! Does it see any street duty?

I also recommend getting Keith Franck's float level tool, it's a great way to get a very accurate float setting. The main circuit is magnitudes more sensitive to float height than the idle/progression circuit.

Higher profile tires will fill out the wells much better. I assume those are 15 inch wheels, and you're using 205/50 tires. That makes for a 23" tall tire. Stock overall tire diameter is about 24.8".

I have a similar set, they were made in similar styles by a few different companies. I don't think I've seen them with large negative offsets and they're definitely not stock for any Z (260Z's all came with steelies and wheel covers from the factory).

What are they worth to you? If you're willing to pay $1000, then do it. It really comes down to condition. If they were bought new, put on the car and never run, then maybe it's worth it. I can't tell you, as I don't know your budget nor see the carbs you're referring to. Also, what makes you think they need a rebuild? Everyone wants to "rebuild" every part they get but it's not necessary in many cases. What you need to do is a good inspection and if everything checks out, then run them. As I said, I got my DCOE 18s for $600. All I did was replace some dried-out o-rings and have run them ever since. Not sure how to address the sudden derailment to electronic ignition...

I'd pull the valve cover and check for loose parts. If everything checks out then set valve lash.

The transmission is the rear diff, they're the same unit, it's called a transaxle.