Leon

Please say no. Building an engine for the sake of r/s ratio is like choosing your wife based on the proportions of her toes. Many have fantasized about his kind of build, and the conclusion is always that there is no good performance reason behind it. If you're building it for the sake of building it, have at it. But don't expect it to perform better than a fine-tuned L28.

Download the appropriate FSM from the "Reference" section and have at it.

If your dipstick reads low, add oil. Make sure the dipstick fully seats before taking a reading.

Nice job!

Simply awesome!

Here are some recent and semi-recent pics. I plan on clay-barring the paint soon as well. As you can see, I've been driving it more than anything! At work At home With Delorean's Z at Cars & Coffee The twins Derek's trigger wheel and sensor mount, mounted. Thanks Ross! Interior, gross old carpets have since been removed and I plan on getting new ones in the near future. Also thinking of selling the seats, they're a bit small for me and sit me a little high. My neighbor's pristine green/butterscotch Z, which I helped sell recently. Wish I had the space.

Not trivial at all. The damping fluid controls the rise of the piston during acceleration (don't go there!). Higher viscosity oil will enrich the mixture during transient acceleration conditions and lower viscosity will lean it out. It also has the potential to get eaten by the engine if you pour in too much so make sure that it's something compatible with a combustion chamber.

Look for a 260Z 2+2 with manual trans (good luck, I'd say it's the rarest US production chassis/drivetrain), or post a WTB ad. They come up from time-to-time.

His Z is EFI and turbocharged. A turbocharged car will feel the effects of increased exhaust backpressure more, but it should only be a couple of hp. But you bring up a good point. Sito, double-check your AFRs.

With a wiring diagram combined with the BE section of the appropriate FSM. Check all grounds and pertinent electrical connections.

You should be able to floor it in high gear, at low rpm (by low I mean loooow, i.e. 1200rpm) and have the car lug but not bog. If your main is too lean, the engine will die. There is plenty of air-flow to get enough fuel, your carbs are just not set up right. I 'll also second Tony's statement about the pump shot, you're either too lean or too rich. I suggest installing a wideband O2 sensor and gauge so you can understand what's truly going on. To EVERYONE using Weber DCOE's, join the Sidedraft Central Yahoo Group and at the very least read Keith Franck's "White Paper" on tuning Weber sidedrafts. Keith is a retired LBNL engineer who has been reverse-engineering the Weber DCOE for the last decade or so. Read the files, links and threads to catch yourself up. He's developed new idle-jets and e-tubes that perform far better than Weber's own. There is no good reason for a triple-Weber'd Z to not have EFI-like tractability with the performance to boot.

Yes! Heat is critical, no matter which method you use!

Nice, must be a fun car to drive with all that torque!

Dagger in the heart! Is there a :passout: emoticon?

Nice, that thing sounds mean!

This has been discussed in excruciating detail. Look at the exhaust sticky, and I'm sure it's been mentioned elsewhere on the forum. In a nutshell, shorter primaries will shift your powerband to higher rpm because of resonance tuning.

You sure as hell will have fumes coming in the cabin if you route your exhaust through the fresh air vents!

As Tony said, you're keeping power away from yourself. Switch to a 10W-30 with ZDDP and everything will be happy.

Good luck. I suppose it's somewhat possible to use stock EFI, but no way in hell I'd want to even attempt that. Going with triples or standalone EFI is a much better solution.

My god. That is heartbreaking!

If you're interested in buying, why not go and check it out in person?

Zed is right though. If your only goal is to replace points, then put in either a Pertronix unit or a ZX dizzy. EDIT: I HATE typos!

I'm setting up EDIS on my triple Weber'd Z using Megajolt. You need the EDIS stuff, a trigger wheel, sensor mount, controller and associated wiring. I'll break it down in my build thread once I'm done.

I'd be more concerned about ground clearance than anything else.