Leon

Nice shots! I see you got that muffler on there, too.

Did you not bother with the link above?

This is somewhat unclear, but it sound like you just glued the HEI module to the aluminum and attached the aluminum to the body. This electrically isolates the module and thus you have no ground connection. Read what NewZed said.

This is what a pump is for. Speed and gravity effects are competely negligible. Don't know who told you this... I doubt anybody uses Plan B, I think your diagram is incorrect. You show two parallel lines feeding the carbs, there is no reason to do this. As I said, it is the most effective way of regulating the pressure to the carbs. A downstream pressure regulator in-line with the fuel return is basically a variable orifice. It varies how much fuel passes through back to the tank. If the regulator is fully open (no restriction), then you'll have zero pressure. If it's fully closed, then you'll have the dead-head pump pressure. You want something in between. This allows for you to have the right pressure at all times, no matter what, since the regulator can quickly shut the orifice to bump pressure or open up the orifice to decrease pressure. That's what I mean by fast response time. This also allows for constant fuel flow from the fuel tank, aiding in fuel cooling.

Either find a stock SU heat shield or make one. Browse for sale listings and post in the WTB classifieds.

Just measured my hub adapter, sorry for the delay! I kept forgetting about it and have the Z at work today so I grabbed my ruler and it measured out to approximately 3.125". This is a less than 1-year-old Momo hub.

I can measure my hub tonight as well.

My Momo Race and hub are spaced exactly where the stock wheel was. It depends on the amount of dish the aftermarket wheel has and the length of the adapter. Get a flatter wheel, use an adapter and you'll be fine. I don't know of any smaller diameter wheels that fit the 240Z steering shaft splines.

Take the ducting off when you're driving on the street.

No, the bushing should not cause notchiness, unless the washer you inserted is interfering with something. Install a new bushing and see how it feels. If you still get notchiness in 2nd, then I'd say your syncro is going out. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html You can try other fluids after that, there were recent discussions on varying transmission fluids.

Plan A makes the most sense. You will have an almost instantaneous response time with the regulator there and you will constantly be flowing cool fuel through the lines. Plan B makes no sense (redundant lines), and C is the same as A. Plan D works but wont regulate and dissipate heat as well as A. Josh's plan makes the fuel pump work harder, thus heating up the fuel more and also slows the response time of the regulator.

Jon, I understand that. However, the ITS racers must use stock brakes and don't lose the pedal during a race. I'm sure they utilize brake ducting but it appears as though stock brakes are good enough when properly maintained and set up. In fact, after reviewing the thread, you made essentially the same comment in post #17. You have also divulged that your brake ducting was inadequate. I think we can conclude that the stock brakes, with aggressive friction material, high-temp brake fluid and good ducting will work just fine, even on extended track sessions.

Amen! People love doing "upgrades" for the sake of upgrading. Tires matter magnitudes more than your calipers. A properly-maintained stock system with agressive friction material and high-temp brake fluid works great, even on the track. Ask the ITS guys. Put your money into your tires and it will change your car. Nice call on the R-S3, I plan to get the same for my Z in the near future.

Good call.

Possibly, but it's not a great solution. It'll help prevent cavitation of the mechanical pump, so the electric pump only solves the problem if the mechanical pump was experiencing cavitation. Otherwise, you'll have the same issues.

Make or get a heat shield, especially if your carbs are hot to the touch after a run. Make sure the fuel rail is well-insulated at its mounts. If the problem persists, then re-route the fuel lines within the engine bay. A good heat shield should be #1 on your list.

Scrapped mine, looks much cleaner without. It's not factory anyway, just another dealer-installed cost-adder.

I had a terrible vibration at highway speeds caused by loose driveshaft bolts. Check those ASAP.

There are no shifter cables. A bad bushing would cause excessive play in the shifter, no matter which gear you're in. I'd check it anyway, though. First thing I'd do is a good bleed of the clutch hydraulics, if you haven't already done so. Then, change the transmission fluid. I think the bushing, bleed and fluid will likely take care of it, but if not, then your 2nd gear syncro is probably not doing too well.

You could easily perform a leakdown test, but you'd need a source of compressed air.

:lmao:

THANK YOU. Many get so caught up in R/S ratios as if it's some holy grail. It's not, so forget about it. A well built engine will have everything sized to everything else. Worry about making things work together. PMC mentions exhaust tuning, and I'll add intake tuning to that as well, as it's the same thing for all intents and purposes. Make the cam, intake and exhaust work in harmony, get pistons that wont explode at the high rpms you want to spin and you're set.

FWIW, the Shelby Daytona was designed by Pete Brock of BRE fame.

You're free to do what you want, no one's stopping you. We're providing constructive criticism besides the typical "he said, she said." We're talking physics, not what one person or the other has done. Obviously it's your car, so you can do as you please.

Precisely...