Leon

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105590-1977-280z-l28-engine-transmission/page__pid__987869#entry987869

Nice! I've been using the EDM at work, looks like a good project! Keep us updated.

Damnit. Did you put in a new gasket once you straightened the flanges? Check both flanges with a straight-edge? You can also try to use some of that copper gasket spray to see if it will help seal up once everything is true.

Also, check your flanges for straightness. I've seen them warped enough to never seal.

A cool car and beautiful engineering, but that was a mechanical form of fuel injection.

I'm with John, set them to German torque spec.

There's a 76 on Woodside Road in Redwood city that sells 100 octane. Just sayin!

Use a stethoscope (i.e. a screwdriver with the soft end butted up to your ear and pointy end used to probe around) to find the locus of the noise.

I also quite enjoy Tony's high-revving LSR car!

On the right is a Clifford Research header, the one on the left is a Hooker Super Comp. Both are NLA, along with many other Z headers.

The chain tensioner is hydraulic, so the chain will have some play in it without the presence of oil pressure. Follow the procedure that Tony outlined, to make sure that the knock is not localized to one cylinder.

C'mon Tony, that's cheating!

That's the range that was in my mind as well.

My suggestion is to remove the exhaust manifold and if the stud protrudes enough, clamp down on the stud with your bench vise. You will have a bunch of clamping power, plus you can use whole exhaust manifold as a lever when you try to turn the stud out. Make sure to use heat, and be careful with the mating surface. I've removed a frozen stud from a head using this method, when nothing else worked. However, any time you remove one manifold, you should remove the other. Not only does this make the process easier, but you really should put a new intake/exhaust gasket in if ever the old one is disturbed. Just remove the manifolds, it's an easy job as long as you're careful with the studs. Use penetrant and heat if necessary. Be sure to keep fuel lines away and a fire extinguisher handy if using heat. It's not as bad of a job as it seems.

In no way is manifold velocity constant, it's a complex, pulsed flow. Besides that, I'm not even sure what you mean by "the air-fuel builds up". I think Steve's got his answer. This SU carb psuedo-theory is just clouding up the thread.

That's not the correct etymology of the "constant velocity" term. Also, there is no "great feat of Japanese engineering" here. The natural firing order for any inline-6 is 1-5-3-6-2-4 and there were straight-sixes with twin SUs way before the 240Z, e.g. the Jaguar XK140, predating the first Z by 16 years. FYI...

No can do, I'm a header hoarder. Nice, Ryan. I can assure you that it will be nice and loud!

$33k is definitely not cheap, even for this one, but a cool car nonetheless!

She convinced me to buy my first Z. Enough said!!!

Why is this thread here? This should be in the non tech section.

Attaway! The company in the first link is actually where I got my hub adapter from. Looks like they increased in price since last year though, they were $66 and now are $75.

Well yes, the gear reduction starter does have more mechanical advantage than the other. I've had no problems with the stock S30 starters.

I think I documented it in my build thread, but my hub+wheel combo put the steering wheel exactly where the stock one was! That was the only thing that kept me from pulling the trigger, until I found a wheel on CL said the hell with it. I did make sure to get a wheel with low dish (Momo Race) and it's worked out well.

I have a 350mm Momo Race that I found on CL for $100 (did pay around $70 for the right hub, though). Feel and effort are great, unless you're trying to park/leave a tight parking spot.