Leon

I haven't played with Mikunis but they're similar to Webers. Those jets all sound way too big. I have an L24 with stock cam, header, electronic ignition, so a very similar setup. I'm running 40DCOE's and from memory: mains are 125, air correctors are 170, idle jets are 45. I still run too rich at idle and cruise. I'd be surprised if you were running lean. The only functional differences I can expect between the carbs would revolve around the progression hole locations, emulsion tube design and idle/pilot jet design, and I bet they're not worlds different. Again, I don't have direct Mikuni experience.

That ring gear is pretty much useless without its matching pinion.

My 260Z tach did this when it died. Replaced with a 280Z unit (ebay, $25) and all has been good since!

Excellent work! Keep it up.

I was going to say the same thing, twist the input shaft around while trying to stick it in gear.

Jeebus, why did you cut such huge holes! I'm not sure what you're planning, so I'll let you explain. If you're just going to leave big holes in the sheetmetal there, you're short-circuiting the radiator. Air will go around the rad, not through it. Take a look in the windtunnel sections, people usually try to close up the front, not the other way around. I hope you have big vents somewhere to release all that pressure that you'll be building under the hood. Maybe you have a good plan for it...

No, it came with a manifold vacuum port, nowhere does it say that it's for the distributor. The distributor needs a ported vacuum source, not manifold.

This definitely has been discussed before. However, triples make plenty of vacuum to used the vac advance. The problem is that there is no ported vacuum source to drawn from, so you'd end up getting way too much advance at idle. Vac advance is beneficial, on top of having a properly matched mechanical advance curve. However, in order to make it work right, you need a ported vacuum source and a vacuum log to strengthen and smooth out the signal. By that time, you might as well go crank-trigger. Only cost me $400. Dammit! I got ripped off!

What's a distributor? But in all seriousness, the stock distributor has mechanical advance. It's the advance curve that you're worried about. Search around and you'll find some good discussions on the topic.

Depends on your definition of "fun" I guess. I can have fun with 120whp from a stock L24. Find a running engine on CL and stuff it in. Shouldn't cost you more than a few hundred bucks and will get you on the road and having fun in no time! If you want to build an engine then buy a spare one and build while keeping the Z on the road at the same time.

Could have something to do with dropping in a V8...

The soft brake lines to the calipers and wheel cylinders have to be removed when replacing springs. The system must be bled properly afterwards. Sounds like the shop is at fault again, if the car came in with good brakes and left with spongy ones.

Very nice! Get her tuned, cleaned up and log some miles!

Yes, ignition module is the first thing I'd be looking at, as I mentioned. Wire in an HEI module (hell, they're cheap!) and see what happens.

Check for vacuum leaks.

Also, use heat. Makes it a lot easier.

I use two screwdrivers on either side of the flange, so that I'm not binding the shaft. Pops right out.

Springs are switched, they put the front in the back and vice versa. To double check, look at the part numbers on your springs. The fronts should end with a "1" and the backs with a "2".

Good work Ross! Are those Panasports I spy?

I believe you can wire in an HEI module in case your factory module fails. The diagram should be around here somewhere.

Thanks! You're car is very nice example, and it was nice meeting you. I didn't hear about the drive, but I'll be working on projects tomorrow. Might take the S up to Skyline if I get a chance, though. :D

Not a problem. Like I said, if your reason for building it is "just because" then no one is stopping you. Do what makes you happy. Let's just keep false premises to a minimum, it's how myths are spread. Thanks for taking in the information with a level head instead of getting defensive and combative, as most seem to get.

1. Check wheel balance, make sure all fasteners on rotating components are properly torqued. 2. Look up the "EFI Bible", check out Tech Tips section of atlanticz.ca 3. Brackets, answered above 4. Search, "shifter bushing" 5. Dave Irwin rebuilds them 6. FSM, download free at xenons30.com

We are not purporting that we know best. We are providing you with facts supported by empirical evidence. Others like to go on so-called "theory," and use it to make all sorts of proclamations. In other words, bench racing. Look at the evidence and judge for yourself.

I've been considering Dunlop Z1 Star Specs and Hankook Ventus R-S3, which is cheaper than the Z1SS. They're probably not as grippy as the ones you mentioned, but those are the tires I'm considering for street/autoX/light track duty.