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///M3 & Z

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Everything posted by ///M3 & Z

  1. I have been waiting for my axles and front end swap brackets now for 10 months. I have been trying to contact Vlad but he has completely ignored all of my messages. I can see that his profile is online and active yet weeks go by with no reply at all. I don't want to have to post here but i don't see any other option. I spent a lot of money on all the donor parts needed for this kit and can't do shit with it without the missing pieces. I want to get my car moving. Please send me the parts that I need to finish this job.
  2. Your best bet is to use the "works" style fender flares instead of zg ones. They are 8cm per side wider. https://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-works-over-fenders-standard-type-s30-s31.html
  3. Iv also read that the foam deteriorates over time as well, and especially quickly when using e85. What do you mean by yield route for the material? I made a cardboard template for the maze idea, seems like it may work although im concerned that it may almost be overbaffeling. Ill probably have to put some water in it and slosh around to see what it reacts like. Was also thinking it would help to sump out the pickup area to make it the lowest point in the tank so fuel naturally pools up there. Maybe its overkill for a car thats going to be 90% street but i like to try making things as good as possible for any scenario i could end up in.
  4. Im finally getting around to building my 240z's gas tank. I will be installing the hyper fuel tight fit in tank retrofit kit with 525 lph pump to eventually power e85 on for my rb26 as well as a speed hut fuel float sender. Now that I have the tank cut open I'd like to weld in some baffles. After searching around online there are a lot of different methods being used, Iv came up with a few of my own and would like to get some feedback on them before going ahead if possible. Right around the pickup Im thinking about a maze like this and surrounding the maze im thinking the larger sized baffles to help with acceleration and braking as well as one to separate the larger chamber area from the thin area and potentially one more inside of the thin area. I will leave enough room on the side of the baffle for the float sensor. Im also planning to use the Por15 fuel tank sealer kit as its a bit rusty inside. Ironically if the baffles work too well it will make evenly coating it very difficult!
  5. Iv never heard of that brand MCA, anyone running it? What did you use for spring rate? Did you also upgrade to swift springs?
  6. I searched up a few videos on youtube of people using cantilever suspensions to get an idea of how loud it would be . Skip ahead to 9:26 in the video if the link doesn't already: https://youtu.be/L2FVxQjNXtA?t=566 To me that amount of sound while driving around town would be just ridiculious.
  7. How did it go with the BC racing coilovers? I'm considering a set of the BC racing DS for my car or possible the KW v3 depending on the price
  8. How did it go with the BC racing coilovers? I'm considering a set of the BC racing DS for my car or possible the KW v3 depending on the price
  9. I started thinking about the Heim joints after you mentioned it. There are a lot of them, 22 In the rear kit to be exact. If you planned on replacing those with the ridetech R joints it would cost you $1900 usd to buy enough of them. People seem to say they get contaminated pretty fast with dirt and road debris, would hate to have to be either cleaning or replacing that many of them. Iv always also wondered what the cabin noise would be like with the struts and joints being right behind you inside. I like loud engine and exhaust sound but little bumps and vibrations I'm not a fan of at all.
  10. I'm very seriously considering to buy the track attack rear kit myself. I have to admit that the main reason for choosing it over other offerings is the coolness factor of the cantilever setup in the trunk. My car will be probably 90% driven on the street but id still like to have the best quality components. If it wasn't for the trunk setup I think it would be an easy choice to go with the invincible extremes kit. I am wondering if it is completely necessary to also run the track attack front kit in conjunction with the rear kit in order for the car to be properly balanced. Would be nice to save some money up front if possible but its tough to determine that outcome until its been tried. Would have been nice if the front kit came with 5 lug hubs.
  11. Any progress on your build? I'm local to Vancouver as well and would love to come by and check it out. I'v got an rb26 swapped 240z project slowly going and would be nice to get some inspiration
  12. Awesome thanks, Any issues with starvation after installing it?
  13. Im thinking about doing this to my 240z tank as well. Would you guys be able to share any further pics and info regarding the installation? The pics on the thread dont work anymore.
  14. Any gloss carbon parts can be re cleared with a matte or satin clearcoat to get that "dry" effect your looking for.
  15. awesome definantly going to buy a set of these. at first I tried using a punch and they didn't really move, then I used a slide hammer and they came right out!
  16. I would suggest rs watanabe but im not sure if they make 17" wheels.
  17. I used the z32 trans in my setup with 3 litres of liqui moly 75 w90
  18. I was thinking of buying some ebay dump pipes for my 240z rb26 project, was wondering if anyone is or has attempted running these on their cars? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-GTR-RB26DETT-Turbo-Dump-Pipes-Turbo-Outlet-Elbow-/230925199262?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35c436e79e Its hard to tell from the pictures if these are going to take up much more space than the oem dumps, there is not a lot of extra room between the dumps and the steering shaft as is. The ebay post says that they are for rhd cars only but I don't think that means a lot to hybrid z members lol. Any opinions would be appreciated. -kevin
  19. I would also be interested in a set of adaptors if the price is right.
  20. 3 and a half hour nightmare taking these damn gaskets off the ITBs!!!!

  21. Hey after doing this mod does the shifter sit nice in the shifter hole of a 240z or is it closer to the back of the hole? How does the feel of the shifter's throw and everything feel compared to before doing the mod?
  22. Is it nessesary to have the oil temperature and oil pressure sensors mounted for the engine to run properly? or is it only realy for using them for gauges? If so would it be possible to mount them after the block adaptor using a T fitting before or midway along the braided line leading to the remote oil filter plate? Im just finishing up planning out my remote oil filter setup. I found a thread very helpful for remote filter setup. http://www.freshalloy.com/archive/index.php/t-126849.html Couple of main things to take from that thread are: Nissan part # 15213-21001 will give you a thread that you can put into your RB block to attach a spin on adaptor to.the thread will look something like this. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/r25558/RB26Buildup056.jpg Earl's 1178ERL can be used in conjunction with the above part#
  23. Doesnt the z32 trans use shifter linkage and place the shift lever in an aqward position?
  24. pm'd. Hey im actually in vancouver, i bought a whole running gtr for just over $2000. approx how much do they cost? Hey my car is a red 72 240z. Im still in the process of putting things together so i havn't driven it yet. I live in vancouver but the car is at my shop in burnaby. Are you running an rb? if so would be great to meet up some time so i could ask you a few questions . I looked on ebay for 300zx trans, the price is basicly the same as an rb25 unit so if going that route i may as well get a 25 trans. Is there actually any negative aspect of using the 26 trans other than a bit of extra weight and length?
  25. I have been searching for an rb25 rwd tranny locally (in canada) to use in my rb26 240z swap and have found nothing but rediculiously high prices, one guy quoted me $1800 for just tranny lol. There are currently a few trannys on ebay for about $700 + probably $200 shipping that i could buy but its also a bit high. There is a local guy out here that Iv been talking to that says he could take my awd tranny and cut off the transfer case and weld it up to make it a rwd only application for $250. I did a bit of research and it seems like its been done before and works. Would like to ask you guys if once the transfer case is cut off are there any major differences in this tranny and the rb25 one, specificly in size, weight and length? I bought a complete car to get the engine from and Iv test drove it many times down the back alley lol, and the tranny shifts properly so atleast i know everything is already working. Are there any reasons why i shouldn't go this route that i havnt thought of?
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