Scottie-GNZ

We can all thank Barrett-Jackson for making every dream car out of the reach of the average Joe.

Welcome to yesterday.

That could get pricey but it depends on what you are looking for the auto box to do. For a Z car, I cannot imagine you want more than converter lockup and that should not require much $$$. The TH200-4R has been done before and is currently being done by another member here. Yes, OD is sweet but also having lockup is even nicer if you make long trips.

Car is making improvements. It ran 9.35 @ 152.5 with a 1.36 this past weekend in the finals at Englishtown, NJ. Unfortunately, the big-budget WRX ran 9.30 but I am sure they now know they have competition.

Thanks Yasin. Simply amazing and I want to see the performance results. Proud to be a Porsche owner/fanatic.

Not sure where you go that weight. Mine weighs 33lbs.

You are either not sick or we are both sick. I use it quite a lot but specifically around performance. I use it to track, compare and play "what if". It allows me to break down a timeslip and properly analyze it.

That's a lot of dramatics for a hi-11/lo-12 car :D

Sold!

Want a shift light but do not want to show off like a ricer with one that looks like cop's flashlight? :D I have a small compact shift light for sale. Check it out in the ads: http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=2303 Apologize if this violates some forum rule but not sure if anyone would get to see the ad buried in the for sale forum.

There was one at the track last night and it was running consistent 12.9s @ 108. Pitiful, as that translate to about 375rwhp. Ironically, someone pulled in with a brand new Jeep Cherokee SRT8 and ripped off a 13.5!

Absolutely agree with John's statement from personal experience. Saw it when I did the flares on the GNZ and it drove me batty when I did the C4 IRS swap.

WOOT! You got a keeper

Pete, well wishes and quick healing.

THE Andrew Bayley? :D

Thanks guys.

This is a fairly common problem with GM starters. I just went through the same problem and corrected it in a different manner. Not sure if my problem or resolution will apply but here it is anyway. I have a relocated battery (Optima Red Top) and LT1 mini-starter on my Buick V-6. I had the Mazda starter solenoid trigger wire actually triggering another relay to send a 10G wire to the starter solenoid and still had hot start problems. I solved it by using a Ford (sacrilige ) starter solenoid. This works great for me because I had a 0-1 G cable running from the battery to a junction block on the firewall where everything, including the starter lead, fed off. The Ford solenoid relaced both the junction block and the additional relay and eliminates the voltage drop when things get toasty. have not had a problem since.

I know there are a couple of folks on here that are very familar with these products and some might even have a business that deals with them and hopefully they will see this post. I want to know the best method for removing the coating from a turbo header. Do not need to remove it from the entire header, just a portion so that the header can be modified and tig-welded. I now it is a biatch to remove with standard methods and welds will not take if not properly removed. Would sand or glass beading get the job done?

Any battery experts out there have any comments on my response regarding CCA ratings? I am interested in this.

...and tune, tune, tune, tune, practice, practice, practice, practice. Many "350hp" cars out there that cannot hold a candle to well-tuned 275hp cars with a good driver behind the wheel. IMO, you do not need that much injector but OTOH, soon 300hp will become boring and...... I had no problem with a CFDF behind a 300whp L28et but I am probably the minority (hehe) here.

http://www.valentine1.com/

Great looking car and love the concept. If that performance is real, then their HP claims are way off. A 0-60 of 2.94 means quick acceleration from rest but a 10.98 wih 138mph means the opposite. Of course, you do not take a car to the drag strip and make a couple of passes and expect to get max performance, so I give them some benefit of the doubt. The MPH shows it makes big HP but overall I would say the performance is about 150-170hp off their claim of 787. Great to hear from you again Larry. Hows the project coming?

A former Indy V6 is currently being built for a Z-car here as we speak!

I run an Optima red top and while it lighter than standard batteries, it is heavy compared to these in the post. Being a street car 1st, my concern would be the CCA rating of these batteries, especially the Odyssey which has a rating of only 220. Cant scoff at the price though.

Ironically, the octane rating advertised on the pumps (R+M/2) is somewhat meaningless when considering which gas to use for performance. There are 3 octane ratings and for performance, the one that means the most (MON) is the one you never see expect when looking at the specs for race gas. I would highly recommend a good alky inj system to rid you of the concern about detonation from pump gas especially if your turbo engine is sensitive to pump gas. While there is added expense, what is the cost of having to redo your engine? Another way to look at the added cost is that will allow you ro run more boost safely on pump gas and therefore make more HP. With alky you go from worrying about too much boost causing detonation to actually running more boost. See below and I highlighted some points. Research Octane (RON) CFR tested @ 600 RPM's, fixed timing at 13 degrees BTDC, fuel temp is not controlled and intake air is varied with the barometric pressure. ( This is basically a No-Load test and this number should NEVER be used to determine which fuel to use in your race engine. Motor Octane (MON) CFR Tested @ 900 rpms, timing is varied with compression ratio, fuel is preheated to 300 degrees Farenheit, intake air is preheated to 100 degrees Farenheit. Motor Octane, measured under varying load, is definitely the most representative octane measurement for actual engine octane requirements. The closer the Motor Octane number to the Research Octane number the more stable the fuel is throughout the RPM range . This is very critical when running higher that 7500+ RPM's engine speed. R+M/2 This method of measurement consists of adding together both the MOTOR and RESEARCH Octane numbers and then dividing by two. This is the number in that yellow box that you see on the gas pumps. This number should only be used when determining which fuel to use in your street car or tow vehicle. This method is NOT intended for correct use in your racing engine.