Scottie-GNZ

Rick, I ended up using the blue Mallory unit because it had the highest rating and fit perfectly in the spot I wanted to use. The one we thought was 80K MFD was actually 30K. Between our 8 eyes we still had trouble distinguishing a 3 from an 8. Then again, it was 11p in a dark parking lot (damn that sounds devious) :D 240Z2NV, are you saying JTR recommends using that Volvo relay with the Taurus fan? Make sure you understand the specs of that relay if you plan on running the GM ECU and voltage-sensitive sensors. That was really the crux of my problem.

Where you getting the engine dyno'd? You gonna stick around that evening and run it? I am trying to get some miles on the engine and work out some bugs so I can make some low-boost passes myself.

Hey John Doe!!! Glad to see you are still here. Sorry to hear about the car. Hopefully you can salvaged the drivetrain as it sounded like a killer setup. Hope to see you around and see what you put that drivetrain in.

Thanks to everyone who contributed and special thanks to Clint and Speeder. Finally got a chance to put some miles on the engine today doing a little over 60 miles of in-town driving from 1-4p with lots of stop and go. Highest registered temp was 187* in an area with lot of lights and slow moving traffic. Problem appears to be solved as there is now no surge that affects the electronics and temps are where I feel compfortable. Should get a little better when the fresh shortblock loosens up a little more. Now need to figure how why the O2 sensor is not registering so I can start tuning this puppy.

Here is the entry list as it stands now: 1 ADT Champion Racing Audi R8 2 ADT Champion Racing Audi R8 3 Corvette Racing Corvette C6.R 4 Corvette Racing Corvette C6.R 5 Pacific Coast Motorsport Corvette C5-R 6 Penske Racing Porsche RS-Spyder 7 Creation Autosportif DBA 03S Judd 8 B-K Motorsports Inc. Courage C65 Mazda 10 Miracle Motorsports Courage C65 AER 12 Autocon Motorsports Riley & Scott Mk IIIC 15 Zytek Motorsport Zytek 04S 16 Dyson Racing Team Lola B01/60 AER 19 van der Steur Racing Inc. Lola B2K/40 AER 20 Dyson Racing Team Lola B01/60 AER 23 Alex Job Racing Porsche 911 GT3-RSR 24 Alex Job Racing Porsche 911 GT3-RSR 27 Horag Lista Racing Lola B05/40 Judd 30 Kruse Motorsport Courage C65 Judd 31 Petersen / White Lightning Porsche 911 GT3-RSR 34 ZIP Racing Porsche 911 GT3-RS 35 Maserati Corse Maserati MC12 36 Maserati Corse Maserati MC12 37 Intersport Racing Lola B05/40 AER 41 Binnie Motorsports Lola B05/40 NME 43 BAM! Porsche 911 GT3-RSR 44 Flying Lizard Motorsport Porsche 911 GT3-RSR 45 Flying Lizard Motorsport Porsche 911 GT3-RSR 50 Panoz Motor Sports Panoz Esperante GTLM 51 Panoz Motor Sports Panoz Esperante GTLM 57 Aston Martin Racing Aston Martin DBR-9 58 Aston Martin Racing Aston Martin DBR-9 63 ACEMCO Motorsport Saleen S7-R 71 Carsport American Dodge Viper GTS-R 78 J3 Racing Porsche 911 GT3-RSR 79 J3 Racing Porsche 911 GT3-RSR 83 Graham Nash Motorsport Saleen S7-R 84 Graham Nash Motorsport Saleen S7-R 88 Rollcentre Racing Dallara Judd The #88 Judd is a V10 and the #8 Mazda is a 3-rotor. Sweeeet music! The other Judds are V8s but make a sweet noise too.

Orgasm in Motion!

Good luck and lets hope he does not watch Barrett-Jackson on Speed as that has completely killed any chance of the avearage guy owning a classic.

Hmmm, not sure which Zs you are referring to but the ones I can think of have a solid rear. It takes a lot of torque to do that and unless you have Ross' billet stub, that might the weak point that prevents it from happening, more than once . I did it, barely, but that was with the complete C4 IRS, 3" steel axles, and flashing the converter to 46-4800 RPMs on the transbrake. I cringe thinking about doing that on anything but an R230 and custom/billet Z parts. Unless you are looking to please the crowd or yourself, I would build the car to avoid doing that.

Hey! My TB is not that small. It's a whopping 62mm with knife-edged blades. :D Seriously, I think Joel said it best. Some engineer here could calculate airflow based on HP and derive the "required" TB diameter. You might be surprised at what is actually required for a forced-induction engine. Of course required and "check this out" are not always the same thing.

I think your title should have said "Nigerians". Only thing Nigerian about those scammers is that they know Nigeria exists and can spell it.

??

The Caspers knock system is a good unit and popular with the GN crowd. However, note the bold type at the bottom and be aware that it wires it to the GN ESC (Electric Spark Control) circuitry. https://www.casperselectronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=102001&Category_Code=8687GN_Perf

Yeah, I meant for display.

Will it be done in time to show it at SEZ?

You got me all excited just thinking about your setup! 800+hp and 600+ lb/ft torque. Is that RWHP or flywheel? Torque figure sounds low. My buddie's 4.1L V6 (same as I just built) recently dyno'd at 540rwhp & 630 lb/ft with a badly slipping converter. We feel it can come close to 600. The V6 Buick is a lower revving torque monster but the V8 does have a lot more cubes. Getting the converter right is absolutely the key and I am very familiar with the Art Carr folks in TX. I was running their 9.5" 3400 stall lockup unit in the Z cutting 1.30s and putting a little air under 1 front tire with IRS and only 520rwhp! Took me 2 restalls to get it right. BTW, never heard of a 4K stall non-lockup having only 5% slip but if it is that's great. Heed Hans' warning. With that much power, compression, 4K stall, solid rear and the Z's F-R weight distribution, THE FRONT WILL BE COMING OFF THE GROUND BIG TIME! So let's continue playing what-if (I love racing other people's cars ). If I assume 850 at the flywheel, then you have 705rwhp with 17% drivetrain loss. With that I estimate the car will go 9.20 @ 149.75 (at least a 10-pt and parachute needed). Here is what the numbers look like now a with 29.5 tire: 2.73 - 5,250 3.07 - 5,900 4.11 - 7,900 The numbers say a 3.23 would put you at 6,210. BTW, which alky-injection system are you planning on using?

I see you are in Largo. Are you coming up to the SEZ? That will be your first chance. HeatRaver, do a search for "240Z Turbo" and get in touch with him. Let him know the details of your setup and goals and he will hook you up the best turbo for your needs.

You did not give the info needed to help determine what might work for you. Estimated HP, redline, tire diameter & weight with driver. My car weighed in at 2,750# w/me and I ran a 27x11.5 QTP so I used those and assume the engine will make 600rwhp and that the car will go 9.70 @ 142. The big unknown is the converter slip and I am assuming 10%. Probably off on the assumptions but at least you might be able to use this in other calculations. Based on that timeslip and 10% slip, here are some estimates for trap speed RPM @ 142mph for different gear ratios: 2.73 - 5,430 (10% slip makes it more like 3.00) 3.07 - 6,105 (10% slip makes it more like 3.38 ) 4.11 - 8,175 (10% slip makes it more like 4.52) Of course, the taller the gear and/or tire, the higher the MPH and the shorter the gear and/or tire or worse the converter slip, you get less MPH, but I used a constant MPH for all to make it easier. As for the stall, its a sure bet you will not get it right the first time, so make sure the converter maker offeres a free restall once you find out what will actually work. Not sure you need to worry about the transbrake. Remember how a transbrake works - it puts the tranny in both reverse and first at the same time and releases reverse when you launch. Your best bet is to work with the converter maker and try to be as accurate as possible with estimated HP/torque, cam specs and turbo specs, especially the turbine side as that is what affects spoolup most.

Does'nt matter if he can back it up with a timeslip. You can back it up with a good timeslip, right Mike? Mike? Mike? No pressure!

...and you keep detonation at bay by running an efficient turbo that does not generate a lot of heat, having a good engine management system, sufficient fueling and a good I/C :D or you can run an alky injection system (25psi boost myself)

Thanks for the feedback, all. For starters I have rewired the fan circuitry so that power and ground is directly to the pos and neg terminal blocks in the engine compartment. The battery is in the rear.