Scottie-GNZ

Difficult questions to answer but in general, the ones about HP and spinning tires have more to do with tire compound than it does with HP. Here is what I mean. Darius spin his tires at 65mph. If I do a 10psi on my 275/40-17 DRs, I guarantee I will spin them for at 330'. However, just the other night with 27x11.5 Hoosier QTP DOTs (same tread width as the DRs), I did a 15+psi launch, cut a 1.39 60' and had zero wheelspin. OTOH, someone with a 250hp Z and H-rated tires will roast their tires. As for a stock Z lifting the front-end, I do not know of any IRS Z that pulls the front wheels. I did not on my 1.39 launch but you could stand there and count the coils Hey, I like all that discussion about the Saab 9000s . Inspired me to proudly update my sig

Take advantage of the experience of others on this forum and go with what is proven. Do not try an unknown pump just because it is cheaper. I recently just swapped out the GSL392 because I got a good buy on something else. Figure out what fittings you need based on line size and type of line and when you order it, let the seller package the appropriate fittings. There is a wide variety of fittings available for it. Take my advice and buy the fittings kit as this thing uses a 10mm thread and you will have nightmares trying to find them yourself and end up paying more. Trust me, there is not an abundance of places where you buy a 10mm to -8 fitting!! When you start needing components for high HP turbo setups, there are certain things you do not go cheap on. This is one of them.

Hanns, see my post about my radiator setup and experience in the double-pass radiators discussion in the High Tech forum.

Not saying they are overrated but I have yet to see the need for one in my car. Take a look at my engine compartment and you see a FMIC that is wider than the radiator plus an oil cooler and a tranny cooler. The tranny cooler (black) in this pic has since been replaced by a bigger one that leaves no gap between the oil cooler and the end of the radiator. Approximately 500hp at the wheels and never a concern about running hot in FL. HOWEVER, there are certain things you have to do to accomplish this. You must have a shrouded fan that is properly wired and moves a lot of air. You must have a way to get the hot air OUT of the engine compartment. Couple of other things I do is run a 160*F thermostat, have the ECM control the fan at 168*F, run the minimum amount of coolant in the mixture and added Waterwetter and RMI-25. The low-$ 24x19 Griffin gets the job done for me following those guidelines.

E-man240, spend a little time doing searches on this site as there is probably more info than you can digest in one sitting. Next visit that turbobuicks URL Mat recommended. You will need about a month to digest all the detailed info about various LC2 swaps . If you still decide to do one, all of us with GN-powered swaps will help you through it.

A lot better than most people think, if they can get over the stigma of the fact that they are "DRAG" radials. Of course I am referring to the Nittos not the BFGs. Unfortunaltely most Zers will never know how good the Nitto DR is as a street tire because there is no applicable size. As a drag tire, not very good because my power level and how I want to launch is beyond their capability.

I resent it. BTW, fix your sig. You need a right bracket after the first "url".

Stony, did you get my email a couple of days ago?

V8Dats, I assume you mean the wheels/tires. 17x8.5" MAS Italy Shadow wheels with 225/45-17s and 275/40-17 Nitto DRs. Mike, you been checking out my arse closely? :D. Actually, it is probably the flares that are throwing you off. I do not have a rear shot but this might help. Thanks to Chris for taking this on the cruise up I-75 to Reynolds.

Better late than never.

When you start running high boost, those t-clamps and the ridge are an absolute necessity.

Just a tad over 500RWHP and I run a fuel cell with a short -10 feed to a SX pump/filter assembly at the side of the cell, then -8 out of the pump to the fuel rail. On the return side I run -6 from the rail to the firewall where I connect it to the stock 240Z feed line. HTH,

Cool video! Most awesome was that guy on the yellow bike and parking the green convertible. The LMP900 that went airborne at the end was at Road Atlanta and I was standing right there when it happened!

Support your brethren hybridZ vendors!

Beg to differ. I always look at OEM I/Cs based on the rated engine HP, which equates to flow. The GN engine was factory (under)rated at 247hp so as not to embaress the Corvette. Many GNs running 350+ with it unmodified and in a GN it is mounted between the radiator and the engine and "covered" with a shroud that draws fresh air below the radiator. Can you say "heat soak"? In a Z I would cut off the neck and weld on the appropriate elbows for how you plan to route your plumbing. Starions, Volvos, Saabs, etc had factory rated engines from 160-180hp. Do you think those OEM I/Cs were designed to have extra flow capacity to support 275-300+hp w/o pressure drop?

The ultimate compliment for a car guy!

This is what I stated in the other post before you did the dyno: "If I guess the weight w/driver at 2,750lbs, that's an estimated 320rwhp. " Looks to me like you are able to put every single HP effectively to the ground and that is what it is all about. Compare timeslips, not dyno numbers :D I would say with that low, flat torque, that is probably a very responsive machine on the street.

Remember, you cannot compare dyno numbers unless all the pulls were from the same dyno under the same conditions. Comparing dyno numbers is water cooler talk. What you do with that number is more important and you have nothing to prove. Use your dyno numbers as an indicator of the progress YOU are making and let your timeslip do the talking. IOW, compare your dynos with your previous dyno numbers. Do not get caught up in the "mine is bigger than yours" game. If I did, I would be scared to line up against some of the 600, 700hp dyno monsters. The most HP and the biggest dyno numbers do not always win drag races.

The Boy's got SKILZ!

I am a big fan of the Nitto555 DR as an everyday street tire on the rear. I have been running them for years and my current pair has seen drag strip duty (now hopeless), a round trip to Montgomery, 4 trips to Reynolds, GA, several shorter in-state trips plus street duty. On some of those long trips I have driven thru monsoons on the freeway and was more concerned the sh*tty Z wipers, defroster and exhaust fumes than I was about the tires. Never a hint of any aquaplaining. They are less than 1/2 worn so I expect to get at least 7000 miles out of them. As for using them on an auto-x or road race track, do not estimate their potential but you are best suited to have tires of equal grip. Do not classify the Nitto DR in the same light as the BFG. Just a pity there are not good sizes for the standard Z.

Ah, you are referring to the yellow V8 car with the big hood. I though you were referring to the black TA with slicks and open headers at Reynolds. In all fairness, I heard that yellow car had problems with his nitrous system and was running N/A. Thats a bummer to come that far and have problems but kudos for his Z spirit. Would love to see more of the Texas Zs come across for our next shindig on March 14.

Awesome car and WELCOME. That's what I wish mine would look like if I was willing to spend the money.

While the trapspeed seems low, it is not that far out of line for an NA with a quick 60'. Key is that he gained 23mph in the 2nd half and that is a positive indicator. If I guess the weight w/driver at 2,750lbs, that's an estimated 320rwhp. Mike, can't you launch with the shifter in 2 and shift the 2-3 manually at your desired RPM? If the cam raised the powerband any, you have lots to gain but running out 2nd to a higher RPM and staying in the meat of the power curve in 3rd. Would love to see a video of the car launching.

Sorry, I hate it when work gets in the way Those are not the numbers I used and were not intended to be presented as numbers anyone should use. I have not had to do any serious tuning on the SDS since I switched and that was almost 4yrs ago! I am just trying to help folks understand the basic principles and if SDS has new information about programming (the bit about -10% and +10% is new to me) then follow it applying the basic principles. I think Z-Gad can attest to how nice it is once you understand the basic principles and be able to understand what change is required and what effect it will have on the overall tuneup. He can also attest to the negative effects of having large and not smooth increments. BTW, great thread and the kind that goes a long way in helping everyone tune. There is no magic map everyone can use and there is no out-of-box map that will come from SDS specific to your setup. There are just too many variables to make that possible. However, if everyone understands the basic principles, they they will know what tweaks to make to baseline maps for squeezing out the last ounce of power. In most cases there is as much power to be gained from serious tuning as from going to bigger parts, but that requires thinking and patience.

Feel like I have a target on my back