V8INtheZ

Intresting idea, but what about the mass air flow sensor?

They are a one peice wheel according to the Image website

This answer can be found by searching. In short its best to use block hugger headers.

Ooh, Nice

Negative, dont use red loctite. Blue is fine.

Might as well get a whole gallon. There is all kinds of stuff you will find to use it on

I think 20's are too big I know 18's are too big too, but for me thats the biggest I would consider.

Check and make sure the bolts are tight, and check the condition of the diff mount itself. Might be torn.

Thats what I meant to say

I agree

Lol, you cant be more of a knuckle head than I am.

Im not going to use flares, I dont really like them. I have a couple sets of Cobra wheels I can fit before deciding for sure. I have seen a couple cars with 17x9 in the front, so I figured there has to be a way to fit an 18x9 in the front. Like you said, offset/tire choice are crucial.

By the way, I have had great luck getting s12w calipers on Ebay. Just bought a rebuilt set for $30 after shipping. My first set I got a loaded pair for like $19 after shipping.

Heating a rotor in itself wont warp them. The warp comes from heating them and then holding the pad againts the rotor when you arent moving. A good example is coming down a big hill, you apply the brakes for a decent amount of time to keep from gaining too much speed. Once at the bottom, you stop at a red light and just hold the brakes. The rotor starts cooling off everywhere except where the pad is up against the rotor, that stays hotter and warps the rotor. I have always been "hard" on my brakes in all my cars and have yet to warp any rotor, stock or not. Its mostly in how you drive. ymmv

I think hes going to use the mold to make another fiberglass peice. So hes going to make a negative mold?

Im going to run a 255/35/18 tire on an 18x9 +24mm offset on all 4 corners. Once I get some coilovers that is

Make sure you are looking at the bolt holes when they are clocked correctly. I made that mistake once and went out and got another drive shaft only to come home and remember the bolt pattern is a rectangle, not a square. I ended up using the other drive shaft on my current car, so it wasnt too bad of a mistake I know it sounds dumb but maybe try rotating the drive shaft 90* and see if the holes line up then.

I rocked the vented swap on my old Z with a stock master cylinder and no pv and it worked awesome. I never locked up the tires, but I never really had to. I used new stock drums, but the car would stop faster than any other car Ive been in. It stops way faster than my 99' Cobra and it has some big rotors. I dont know what the Wilwoods are like though, Im sure they are better, but I dont think a street car needs them.

That was a throttle body, and the answer is they always leak a small amount of air What a bunch of knuckle-heads

Yeah...on their side

lol, oops. I usually just stomp all the pedals and push random buttons when I drive.

My favorite one was the welded compressor wheel. I bet those welds were to rebalance the shaft lol

Did you count the splines? I forget what the SS spline count is but thats why they are unique.

Well, its a roller block at least. I think you have a regular 5.0L, not a High Output. This happened to me once too. Thats what we get for taking people at their word. Either that, or you have an 86 HO. They dont have forged pistons and some pretty crappy heads.

Thats what Im thinking the problem is. I suggested he measure the bolt spacing on the manifold to see if they are symmetrical.