V8INtheZ

True dat

I just sent him a message, we will see what his response is

Well, I was saving my extra quarter mil' for a 280z 2+2 with a factory steam engine.

Yeah, I noticed his little disclaimer there too. The engine doesnt really look like it was a factory job either.

Anyone ever heard of this 260z with a Factory V8? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110356227284&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=

I wouldnt even consider it.

I will buy one from you too, thats the sickest air dam in town

Everyone seems to be comparing 240z's and 280z' in this thread. The two are different...

Meh, you have a sweet car. We will let this one slide

Good call dude

A quick measurement will tell you

Very cool. What block did you get, one of the Darts?

Well, that sounds like a great problem to have, lol This new engine is EFI too right? Can you post a quick summary of the old and new engines? Too bad we live on opposite sides of the playground, I would very much like to see your car in person.

Wow thats awesome dude! Do you really need that much power for the racing you do? I was gonna build a 400 Crank HP 5.0 but decided it would be too hard to control. I know you put some good track miles on your car so I bet you have a good reason for an engine that powerful. Very nice job!

The engine in my Z came from a Mark VII. Great source for HO engines, but they need to be an LSC Mark VII, not all had the HO engines. Still very easy to find in the yards and usually with low miles in the 50k-75k range.

0 caster is like a hospital gurney/shopping cart wheels. When they get going they wobble around like crazy. Having either negative or positive caster fights this problem.

Awesome! Im very excited for you...in a man-ly hetero kinda way

Id say tie rods and ball joints too, also check your steering coupling. Its inbetween the steering collum and the steering shaft near the brake master cylinder.

The hypers are lighter, and usually have a teflon alloy skirt to help rubbing the cylinder wall. They can rev faster and higher cause of the weight savings, and they dont expand as much when they warm up. They are just fine for NA engines. Forged pistons are stroger, but a bit heavier and hold up better to NOS and forced induction. So neither is really better than the other unless you plan on pushing the pinging limits then go with forged cause they can take more abuse.

Lol, yes those springs are gonna be too stiff for a daily driver. Most guys run something like a 180 front and a 225 rear. Stick to that area and you should be fine, but ymmv.

93' has hypereutectic pistons, 87-92 are forged

Gollum is correct... I did a little poking around and have some pretty solid numbers. The HO 5.0L Mustang short block with stock rotating assembly: 195 LBS The HO 5.0L Mustang Bare block: 125 LBS Darts Aluminum 5.0L Bare Block: 83 LBS Stock HO 5.0L heads fully assembled: 53 LBS Twisted Wedge Aluminum heads Fully assembled: 33 LBS So by using a Dart block, Ali heads, and a poly intake you could lose about 100 pounds total. Now I need to find out how much a full stock engine with only an alternator weighs, pretty sure its in the 450 range.

You get what you pay for Its a great place to buy cheap tools that will work for a little while, but their stuff is gonna break sooner. That said, I shop there often, but leave the big ticket stuff to the name brands.

I agree, old skool wheels are awesome. Just picked up a nice set of 16x7 enkei 92's myself for 1/3 the price I saw them sell for last.

I was wondering the same thing. Found an aluminum Dart block for 5k. Figured that with a set of aliminum AFR heads and a polymer Comp intake The engine would only weigh in the low 300's