V8INtheZ

Not trying to be rude, but I think you need to take a couple grand off the price. Its gonna be hard to sell a smog required Z with a Ford engine swap that isnt already BAR approved for the same amount you can get a smog exempt nice driving Chevy powered Z. Nice car though and it looks like you did a pretty good job putting it together. Good luck with your sale

Hammering on a socket usually works for me. Use a socket you dont care about though lol

Another option is an aluminum GT40 head, they are a little over $900 bucks at summit. Considering it would cost 300-500 for a set of iron GT40 heads I think thats a good way to go. They are available in either 64cc or 58cc so you can still have the better compression ratio.... 64cc http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6049-X306/ 58cc http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6049-X307/ They wont make as much HP as a set of AFR 165's but they are almost 500 bucks cheaper too

Just need to be careful with piston to valve clearance. Search the mustang forums like corral. net or stangnet. com

Its not that the combo package wont work, its just not the best choice. Most 302 engines are using a 600 cfm or bigger. And this way when you want to upgrade your heads you will have the fuel to support them. I would track down a set of GT40 heads, you can find them for around 500 bucks rebuilt. They would work well with your carb and intake.

I know this is probably late but you shouldnt buy a carb that big. A stock 302 should use a 500 cfm carb if not smaller. You should get one of 4 manifolds: Edelbrock Performer Edelbrock Performer RPM Weiand Stealth Weiand X-CELerator And get a Edelbrock 1403 carb.

Lolcano at the video, your car sure turned out nice Phil

Ooh fancy, might have to sell a car to get a set of these!

2002 Chevy Grabber Orange is the best orange color. Im gonna paint my Z that color with black everything else.

FYI there isnt much difference in a Mustang HO engine. You can use the truck engine and upgrade it later. I would get a set of HO heads and a similar grind cam while you have the engine apart that way when you upgrade it the engine will be very close to an upgraded HO. Dont bother using the trucks heads or exhaust though. You can even upgrade the non-roller block to a roller block with a kit from summit. By using a roller HO engine there are some other hassles you need to address like the distributor gear and such. Im using a HO roller and I would rather have a non roller 4bbl engine.....

Uh dont want to sound rude but you shouldnt use bondo at all. If you are going through all the trouble and keeping the car use resin with fiberglass strands in it. Much stronger than bondo and it totally seals. Bondo is very porous and sucks up moisture and WILL rust your car almost as fast as being tossed into the Pacific Ocean Good luck on your car! Make sure to post pictures for us all to see

Me Three!!

Hello there. Not sure the 3.8 is such a great choice unless you enjoy replacing headgaskets every 60k or so. You should either go with an turbo L28 or your choice of V8. The V8 path is much easier and cheaper to get whatever power you are looking for. Also the 5.0 Ford V8 is often lighter than a straight six.... That being said, to mount a 3.8 I would buy some stock mounts and then fab brackets or a crossmember to fit them. The ecu's wiring harness is probably gonna need to be spliced into a bit.

15" Enkeis will bring you somewhere around $200-300 depending on their condition. The 16" version sell for much much more. Enkei sets are getting harder and harder to find, so I could grab those and hang on to them if I were you!

Some good parts on that car. Even if the floors are rusted I would consider getting it if I didnt have 4 already (and it were closer). Make sure to check the diff and confirm its an lsd. Fiberglassing the floors is a bad sign though...

you installed the gear SET. cant just swap the ring gear and leave the old pinion in place

Yeah, just start with a Subaru engine if thats your end game. Gutting the dash only saves 40 pounds, I have done it 3 times now and weighed all the parts and all 3 times I lost right about 40 pounds. The ac stuff isnt much more, but every little bit helps. I think you will want to keep as much floorpan as you can, thats a part of the cars chassis. A turbocharged STI engine would be pretty sweet. They make like 305 hp stock, thats 50% MORE than your vw goal. Only doing it once is the best way to go. Im going through that right now, only this is my 3rd time installing a different engine in my car...

Beetles are much lighter than a Z. For the cost of building even a 200 hp VW engine, you can buy a 400 hp chevy small block. You will be taking an engine that is very inefficient, spending a ton of money and putting in a heavier car... Im not trying to come down on you or anything, I just hate so see you waste time and money. A+ for being original though. You would be better off installing an aluminum headed V8 either chevy or a ford.

Subscribed, good luck I know there will be a large demand for these starting with me

That means they weigh less...

One suggestion to you on the brakes. You can upgrade to the toyota 4x4 brakes for about the same price as the stockers. That will take you from a 1 piston sliding caliper to a 4 piston fixed caliper and they bolt right on.

Cast out of pixie dust

Yeah beating a socket on has always worked for me. Choose the right size/socket and there wont be any damage to the wheel.

Dude send me a couple seeds off that money tree

The Ford 8.8 is a decent rear, capable of handling quite a bit of horse power. You can find them all day long, and there are a lot of clutch lsd rears available from the factory. But if you are in California, there are plenty of R-200 rears available way cheaper than fabbing a solid diff into your car...