V8INtheZ

I thought you said the carb was a 1405? You should still be able to bolt it down to the manifold. Thats why there are 2 bolt patterns in the carb. I still say the problem is the manifold. But if the carb is a spreadbore, I would get a square bore for your car. You might want to Ebay both of those and get the correct new ones from Summit.

Yes, the two are different. That isnt a spread bore carb or manifold though.

Nice! Get some made for the MSA show in April!

From this forum and others. The trans empty alone weighs 129-138 pounds according to Tremec Spec charts. Everythings else I have read says around 180 pounds.

Thats where the turning pedal comes into play. When I stomp on the skinny one on the left my car does U-Turns very quickly

One other note, the GM T5 in stock form isnt very strong. The Ford T5 is a bit stronger but Im not going to run one behind my built 5.0 when I put one together. Im going with a Tremec TKO 600, weighs like 105 LBS and its a torque beast.

T56 is more like 180 LBS. I posted some solid weight figures in a thread a few down. An all aluminum 5.0 would be kinda pricey, but easily under 400 LBS. The aluminum block is more than 5k by itself though... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133253

They arent quite a square bolt pattern, but they should be symetrical. So measure the intake bolt spacing front to back on both sides and I bet you find the one side is a shorter length. Im willing to bet its the intake that is off, since they are cast then drilled and tapped. They sometimes dont get that last hole just right. Were it my stuff, I would drill out the hole on the carb and just use a fender washer. They dont have to be super tight anyway. You could also use a jig saw and just cut out the portion of material in between the two holes.

Lead doesnt get used very much here in the states. At least not like it used to be. I think resin is safer to use.

I need to see a picture of the hole. I bet you can drill out the corner of the car to align it with the manifold. Where in Cali are you? Maybe I can swing by and give you a hand. Welding and retapping/drilling the manifold would not be worth the money, they are cheap to buy new. I have had this problem with a holley setup once before. My case wasnt quite as bad, and I was able to gently "force" my carb on. It would be easy to mess up the carb or the manifold, so take your time and be gentle. Buying a spacer or adapter wont help you any, cause you are gonna have the same problem with the bolt spacing.

Oh, that kinda sucks. Hope you didnt pay too much, they are only like 400-500 for both new. You will probably need to drill out the hole in the one corner of the carb depending on what direction the threads are mis-aligned.

You can use just the resin ( mixed with the hardener ofcourse ) to smooth out your metal patch. And when you take away material from your welds, I suggest using a "flapper" disc for your angle grinder. Here is an example of one: http://www.csunitec.com/sand/flapdiscs.html They are made in different grits ( basically sand paper ) and will leave a nice paintable surface as opposed to using a grinding stone wich leaves gouges in the metal.

Hehe. Where in California do you roam? Im in the Easy Bay Area. My car is a 260z and its confused on wether it wants to be a 240z or a 280z. I have parts from both cars, so I will be swapping all four strut assemblies from a 240z parts car I have. Im hoping that will bring my car down closer to where it should be. The new suspension is like 2-3 inches taller than the earlier stuff.

I read it as measure the bottom of the actual rocker, not the pinch weld. The sticky says "outboard" of the pinch weld

Dont use bondo, it absoarbs water. Use fiberglass resin to do your finish work after welding a patch in.

Wow its really coming together! Only thing I would change is to make the spliter angled down in the front a bit more. (I realize its still in mach up) Looking really cool though

Ok, I just realized you are talking about the carb bolting to the intake. At first I thought you meant you were trying to bolt it to the heads. Careful not to strip the threads on the manifold. Take some pictures and post so I can see exactly what you are talking about, but it sounds like you just recieved a defective part. Contact your part supplier and get another one. You shouldnt have to use any space, those parts are supposed to be made for eachother.

Did you put the intake on backwards? Make sure the water opening for the thermostat is facing forward. There should be no difference, I just did this about 8 months ago and didnt have any problems. Let me know what else you find

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Well to get 500 HP out of a little 302 is gonna take a cam, set of heads, good intake and carb, nice headers and a nice exhaust. But with a cam and some headers and a decent exhaust you can come close. Mine sounds pretty wicked, but its mostly stock other than the ol pipes.

You will need to look into some aero sheet metal mods if you want your car to do 150 mph. The S30 cars lift in the front at those speeds, so you will need to address that. There are many solutions on this board. Take plenty of pictures of your car and its progress. There arent enough 302 Z's being built!

Cool, my car is orange too, but not as nice

Yeah I got one of those notices too.

Aw learned something new. Thanks for the info

While keeping in mind we havent seen the fisished product I think it looks awesome!