V8INtheZ

I just posted on the other thread, but here it is again. There is another set that comes with 16x7 for the front and 16x8 for the rear. Its supposed to fit the Z's better. Tires should be somewhere around a 225/50/16. Im using 16x7 all around on my early 260, and I have 225/50/16 on the front and 225/60/16 on the back. YMMV http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-XXR-513-Black-Staggered-wheel-Datsun-240z-280z-Rims_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ43955QQihZ019QQitemZ290230788752QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Actually thats how I was taught to torque a wheel while I was in school. We had lifts and these little chock things and torqued the wheels with no weight on them.

There is another auction for those in 16x7 for the front and 16x8 for the rear. They arent the exact same color, but I think they look better than the red stripe. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-XXR-513-Black-Staggered-wheel-Datsun-240z-280z-Rims_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ43955QQihZ019QQitemZ290230788752QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Well, I finished the car. I drove it home, then sold it

I drove the car around the block last night. The waste gate is open, so no boost; but the car still moves effortlessly. I can take off without giving the car any throttle, I just let the clutch out and it feels like a normal start in any other car. This thing is going to fly

On the Ford T5 I installed in my Z a few months ago the arm gets pulled back to the rear of the car. That pivots the inner part of the arm (the side that touches the TO bearing) to the front of the car. I will post a picture one of these days.

Haha, I see it now. Some of you guys sit too close to the screen I think

Im confused too.

Wow, Im very impressed by many of the vehicles in that link. Think I will put more focus into an old Datsun truck EV after Im done with my two Z's.

Hmm, must be some sort of mistake. Thanks for your guys input. We will just have to weigh the car to be sure

Nobody else has any input?

That guy has been trying to sell that thing for a while now. The car has been cut up for flares, and hes selling the flares sepperate. May not be as nice as one would hope...

Awesomeness, Grats dude

Ebay page says 17 pounds each. Not too bad for a street wheel I guess, especially considering the size.

Well, thats my whole point. I understand what the GVRW is, thats why it cant be 2400 pounds. That would mean the Z has a curb weight of like 1900 pounds...Thats way too light. Im trying to figure out where the plate came from, or if maybe its just a mistake from the factory.

Hey guys. My friend was just given a decent 240z. Appears mostly stock including a stock looking driver door sil plate. It looks factory, but it lists his GVRW as 2400 pounds Front is a tad under 1200, and rear is a tad over 1800 for a total of 2400 even. This cant be correct, what do some of your guys plates read? It has the matching consecutive unit number as listed on the dash plate, and the engine compartment plate...Im confused?

And when you do get around to building an Electric Z, you should recharge the car with solar energy. That way you could be almost totaly free from the Oil restraints. Thats what I want to do some day.

And no burnouts. Roasting tires is a sure way to break an open R180 diff.

Im going to use an Edelbrock Performer set up. I have the carb and intake right now. Im using a 600 cfm for now, its plenty big for a 302. The Weiand Stealth is supposed to flow a tad better then the Eddy, but the Eddy has a matched carb. Its really all in the heads anyway. My car will be running by the end of today, and perhaps driving by tomorrow or so. Had to put the Turbo 4 Cylinder Z on hold for a bit.

Here is a link to the article. Read up and enjoy http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0307_ford_302_v8_engine_buildup/index.html

Car craft released an article some time ago on the Ford HO Mustang 5.0 engine. Im building my second Z based on that. They took a stock short block and made 400 HP with a set of heads, headers, intake/carb, and roller rockers. That was it. They did a base dyno with the stock long block, and stock "headers" with a carb and a Stealth intake manifold to make 278 HP I believe it was. This is basically where my engine is at now. The heads they used were AFR165's and they are supposed to be pretty nice heads.

That makes me jelous Might have to build one myself

I caught you Gollum! Come back towards the light Lol, jk. You have a stellar project there. I love burning dino blood as much as everyone else (Gollum just got excluded from this group ) but I really dig your car. More POWER to you! Lol, get it?!?! Keep the updates coming dude.

You can get similar numbers from a different engine choice. The 460 is more pricey then a 350, or a 302. But if you have it on hand (like you said) you need to get some accurate performance numbers. That would be dissapointing to spend all that time and money only to find out you cant even run a 13

Nice score dude