80LS1T

Well I'm glad to be of service! I figured everything out! That orange wire did go to and ignition positive source and that red wire goes to B+. Thanks for all the help Tim and Greimann! Guy

No that's ok, I have a subscription to ALLDATA Online for both 93' & 96' Camaro Z28's! ALLDATA is great! Thanks, Guy

Ok well I'm not sure (yet) but last time I called Street & Performance, they told me that the orange wire off(this is the one that is connected to the fuel pump relay) of the harness needs to be connected to the starter? I have a red wire that comes off the fuse block that is in the harness but I think that goes to the battery+. I think when they said starter they ment ignition source. This would make a lot more sense. He also said that I need a 30 AMP quick burn fuse on that orange wire. So this sounds a lot like your set up Tim. I am still going to check the wiring though! Just to be safe! Guy

Hmmmmm I think I will have to check that out. I know I dont have any "extra" wires just hanging off the harness. Although maybe the fuel pump relay, that is in the harness, is wired into those wires that shut off the injectors!??? I will look it up on ALLDATA tonight when I get home. Thanks, Guy

I did the same thing. I just used rubber hose from where the fuel lines come into the engine compartment and ran them up to the quick disconnects. I am going to upgrade to SS lines once I have the car running. The rubber hose solution is not really the best idea. Are you sure your lines are going to be big enough? Are you just running a stock LT1? I know for me, since I had a EFI engine in my car before, my lines might be close to the right size. Guy

So this is the "other end" of the driveshaft that holds the U-Joint to the driveshaft and connects it to the Differental? Thanks, Guy

Hey Tim, what are you trying to say?...... Hmmmm???? Just kidding! We all know that the ZX's could loose a little weight! Guy

Great news!!! I found the wire and connected it to the other yellow one and vvvvvvwalllllaaaaaa!!!!!!!! It turns over with the key! It was a good night for me. I sure got a lot done. I have almost every thing hooked up. Just a few odds and ends and then its off to the exhaust shop! One question though... what will make my engine stop when I turn the key off? The fuel will turn off as soon as I turn the key off, so will that kill the engine right away when I turn that off or will it run for a little bit and then slowly die??? Thanks, Guy

Ok today in the shop (tech college) me and my partners were working on the "Beat the Heat" drag car rear end(Ford 9"). Well we were just cruising along minding our own business when this other guy in our class comes over to us and says hey look over there...So we look to where he was pointing and we see one of our other students asking the teacher if he can bend his rear spring back!!! Now is probably when you are wondering what happen to his spring?! Well first of all he has a 199x Cavalier Z24 (yeah he thinks it's fast ). So he got lowering springs for it and then decided that it just wasnt low enough... so he takes a torch to them and "lowers" it some more(not in the shop today but he must have done it recently)!!! Now you know what a torch does to a spring, right? Yeah the top of his spring did a 90 degree bend and was now totally unusable! I just couldn't beleive someone could be this stupid :malebitchslap: His other "mods" include...Blue spray paint on the outside for paint(well thats what it looks like cause the blue isn't the same color anywhere), red wire looms over just about every wire and cooling line he could put one on, straight pipe all the way back(yeah it sounds like crap!), oh an you should see the "custom" interior...I think he glued half of his interior panels with velvet! :malebitchslap: !!! With all of those mods I figure he's got to be pushing like 400 HP!......or maybe not! Guy

Another thing with the old Datsun systems is that they are R12 not R134a refrigerant. This means that you will need special "barrier" hoses and lines if you want to convert over to R134a. This is because the R134a molecules(sp?) are much smaller than the R12 and if you just put R134a in an R12 system it will just go right through the hoses. This can be very expensive to "change over"! I almost did this conversion on a 197x Corvette but after I told the guy that it was going to cost $800+ to do the job right he said he would have to wait on it. Not only is that a problem but try finding a shop that does R12 stuff! The EPA(or who ever monitors the shops for A/C stuff) has really cracked down on "shade tree" machanics in the A/C department, so the R12 stuff is becoming extinct because it is just too much work to keep up with the EPA regualtions rather than just do the R134a stuff. I personally don't know of any shops that do R12 anymore, it's just too much of a hassel to work on. My points being, if you want A/C go with the Chevy stuff and R134a because in the long run it is much cheaper and there will always be parts availble! Guy

So who's car is this? From what I read it's not yours? Also I think it looks great but the engine bay could use a cleaning! There is a lot of room in there compared to my engine compartment. Very sweet! Guy

Yeah I knew it was that stupid relay! I just didn't know where to add power to the wires. Now I just need to find those wire in the harness. Do they go into the car or stay in the engine compartment? What I really need to know is how far from that relay box do they go back? I will find out the harnway if nobody knows Note to self..."don't cut wires if your not sure on wether or not you need them!!!" Here I deserve one of these too... :malebitchslap: ! Thanks, Guy

Ok I have everything working but the ignition/starting circuit! I think I may have cut off some wires that I may have needed? I hooked up the yellow wire to the starter like the wiring diagram says but nothing... no clicking no nothing. Now when I hooked up a power wire to the starter I turns over fine. I did take out the inhibitor relay(I had an automatic tranny) and I think that might be my problem?! How can I by pass all that other stuff like the park/neutral saftey switch, inhibitor relay and switch...so that only the ignition switch is in the starter circuit? Could I just run a wire from the ignition switch down to the starter? Thanks, Guy

Thanks I appreciate the help! Guy

So what's the deal Mudge? Which one goes where? Now I have a new question for ya... Which wires go on the starter? There is a large black on already on it but I don't know if I am supposed to connect a power wire down there. I think all I need is the ignition wire down there on the other post, right? Thanks, Guy

You are one lucky man! I wish my girlfriend(future wife) was like that! Even when I race a buddy on a backroad(I live in the middle of no where) with my 96' Dodge Dakota (3.9L) I get shot the LOOK ! Then I just shoot here my look Heheheheh! Can't wait till she rides with me in the LT1 powered ZX! She can shoot me this look then... !!! HAHAHA Ah what are you going to do though? "you can't live with'em and you can't live with out'em" Guy

Well it seems like everyplace I go they only have 12mm x 1.50 open ended lug nuts and no 12mm x 1.25 like I need. So where did you guys get yours from? Guy

Ok, I just told my stepdad about my "little problem" and he seems to think that someone has to make a fitting that will mate the 2 female ends of the hose and the pump. He is going to check at work(Air Wisconsin-He's a aircraft inspector) tommorow. If he can't find one he said that a machine shop should be able to make one pretty easy. This one end of the hose is the only thing that is causing a problem for me. Guy

Ok you have convinced me! I am going call around tommorow to see if someonce can make me one. I would rather someone else make one for me. My flaring jobs aren't the best I was just try to think of the easiest(el cheapo )way to do this myself. I think I better just make sure I do it the right way the first time! I don't want to know what oil on a hot exhaust manifolds is like! Thanks again Greimann! Guy

= Glad to hear your alright! Guy

Ok I have a T56 in my car and a R200 out of a ZXT. I have the driveshaft that was in the camaro that I took my engine from, so I have that end of the driveshaft that I will need made. What is this "Neapco pinion flange adapter #2-2-899-1" is this for the differental end? Will this bolt right up to the R200? I want to have the camaro driveshaft made into the one that I am going to use in my car becaue it is "skinny" and should fit under the car quit nicely. Thanks, Guy

Ok I just thought of something that I could do... What if I use the original chevy end of the pressure side to connect into the pump, then use a hard line to connect to the hard line of my datsun pressure side ,and put metal (flared) fittings where these two join up? Does this sound like it will work? And if so what kind of fittings should I use to join these two? Do they need O-rings or anything? Guy

Yeah there are a couple of guys who have do it or are doing it right now. Just use the search function and you should be able to find some info on this subject. Welcome abord! Guy

Yeah I have that harness. My timing cover is a 96' and the Opti spark is 95+. Now about those vaccum lines from the optispark, there is a small male fitting coming off the optispark and then there is a slighty larger male fitting coming off of it. Now I would assume that the small one goes to the intake manifold and the larget one goes to the air intake tubing. Thanks, Guy

I guess I should have told you that I am do not have that vaccum harness. Do I really need some special GM part for that or can I just use 2 vaccum lines? What exactly is in all of that vaccum harness? Thanks, Guy