80LS1T

Yeah it will run the motor but I was hoping that those tables werent on there! LOL Guy Are you sure those tables are on there?

Ok I was wondering if you guys could answer some questions about my computer tuning needs? I am wondering exactly what goes into the CHIP for my 93 LT1 computer? The reason I ask is because I already have a chip in it that is not factory. It was modified by Street & Performance for Darius's Supercharged LT1. Do I need a new chip? Is there fuel programming on that chip or just emmissions, rev limiter, speed limiter, etc? In other words non specfic engine stuff like the size of the cam, injector size, Throttle body size, etc? You guys know what I mean? Thanks, Guy

I was wondering if any of you have written a chevy vs ford paper? I need to write one for my Written Communication class. It needs to be 6-10 pages long and needs to be a Chevy biased paper. I really dont want to write this so I was wondering if any of you would like to sell me one? It also needs to have a work cited page. This is probably a long shot but I thought I would try anyways! LOL Guy

HOLY #&%@% !!!!! Do you get Vasoline with that ream job! $305 is just rediculous! I suppose they can charge it though knowing that they are the only one who sells it. Now that is $305 for ALL the seals on each side? T-Tops and doors? Guy

Hate to say it but have you tried a NISSAN dealer? It will most likely cost a arm and a leg but if you really want it they might be your only hope! Guy

Ok lets say theoretically that he really does have a 400HP engine. If he added say 250-300 shot of nitrous couldn't he run 10.6 in that PIG(it must weight almost 4000LBS) of a car? Of course he could only run a 250+ shot if he did internal work and put on some nice fat tires! 10.6 seems a little fast to me even with the "400HP" engine and nitrous Guy

Yeah I know a guy who didnt use jack stands once(I dont think he ever did). He was doing something under his Dodge Diplomat(HUGE CAR) and sure enough his jack let go. All that happened to him though was he kinda got a little pinched under the car and couldnt move but his son found him like 2 hours later and got the car off of him. Lucky for him though that he only got a really really bad bruised shoulder! He couldnt do much for about a month with that side of his body! To say the least, he uses jack stands now! I always do. I dont trust hydraulics with my life thats for sure! Guy

If you build a 700HP MONSTER! You will deffinetely need some serious support in the chassi if you want to be able to open and close your doors! LOL At the very minimum I would put in a 8 point or 10 point cage AND subframeconnects along with some triagulated strut braces! Now this idea of yours seems very do-able! 8) Guy

LMAO!!!!!!! Guy

I knew that would get your attention! This is my new Hurst Shift Knob for my T56..... I don't know if I can live with this. It's the size of a cueball! Guy

Man I wish you would have found this a month ago before I paid for 2 memberships to ALLDATA(93' and 96' Camaro)! Very Cool Site!!!!!!!!! Thanks a lot for sharing! 8) Guy

Yup I put it on all of mine, for both reasons! "Just in case" ya know! Guy

Are you sure that all of your igntion stuff is properly grounded? Guy

Yeah the suspension has a lot to do with how fast you stop. If your car is not transfering the weight to the front wheels like it should your going to have problems. I also think those springs are WAY to stiff! You need some different ones. If you can spin the tires with an L28 in 3rd gear one of two things is happening, 1) you have got one hell of an engine there! or 2) something is messed up with your suspension! Guy

A lot of the new engines use TTY specifications because it is supposedly more accurate. Its not really a kind of bolt, its just how you torque down the bolts. Like on my LT1, I torque all the head bolts down to 22ft. lbs in sequence, then I torqued the inside bolts to 80 degrees and the outside(lower) bolts to 65 degrees (in sequence again).(I think thats what it was anyways) You need a special little tool to do this accurately. You can get an attachment for your torque wrench but I used a $400 digital tool that reads out how far you are turning it as you turn your breaker bar. This is the most accurate way of doing it. The little attachment tool is really not that accurate. However it is more economically for someone who is only going to need it once or twice! With torque-to-yeild you are stretching the bolt to its maximum holding power. With a conventional torque spec. you are only torqueing the bolt to like 75% of its holding power. So you can (most of the time) reuse those bolts. However with a TTY bolt since you have stretched the bolt to the limit you cant reuse the bolt because it will not accuratly read out on your torque wrench and you could actually snap the bolt off! Know what I mean now? Guy

Tim are you there? Guy

Well when ever I type a post that is really long I just select it all and "copy" it so that if it doesnt go through I can just try again with the "paste" feature! You know what I mean? I dont know why this is happening to you though? Have you tried to update your browser? Guy

Score one up for the N/A 280ZX! Glad to hear it! Guy

Just how old are you and what experience do you have for autocrossing? Guy

I still dont understand how you think your going to just go from an RWD set up to a AWD set up so easily? Everything will change. Your front suspension/steering/crossmember will all be different because now you have to put in a axle/differental. This will most likely not just bolt up so easily as you might think. Also where do you plan to put a transfer case? Heck most guys have to bang up the tunnel just to fit the T56 in there! I'm not bashing you but I think you really need to do a lot more planning that you are right now. For one 1000HP is almost un-usable on a autocross track. Now for a drag car that makes sense but then you would have to tube the rear end for the tires that you would need for it to "hook up" I just don't understand why you think you need 1000HP to be fast on an autocross course? Guy

I suppose this stuff only works on the Z's and not the 280ZX's? Also from the picture on that site...did the Z's come with non-vented solid rotors up front? Guy

Hey Tim what do you think? Where should I connect the subframe connectors to the frame? Also I was thinking of bolting the long part that runs along the pinch weld because I am affraid I will just burn through the sheet metal of the floor! how much of a difference will there be between bolting it up and welding it up? Thanks, Guy

Well the 302 will fit fine but that is a Ford engine not a Chevy 302. Grand Marques are Ford products not Chevy/GM. You should look over in the Ford Forums for more info on this swap. There is plenty of information for you to get a handle on what this swap takes to do! Oh and buying the whole car is a good idea for swaps! Guy

First of all are you using new head bolts? If so then you wont have a problem, you just need to find out which engine that is and what heads they are(are they aftermarket?). If your not using new head bolts then you might have a problem. If those heads were originally TTY(torqued-to-yeild) then you can't reuse the bolts because they have already been stretched to their limits. However if they are not TTY then you COULD reuse them but I still wouldn't. You just need to know this information before you install the heads. Guy

I don't have a cage. That is what I am trying to avoid. I might go that route later though if I upgrade to a bigger cam/better heads/or even a supercharger! For now I would like to keep the cage out if possible. I was looking at the 6 point bolt in cage that MSA sells for like $550. I just want something to help keep the doors straight and still able to close! LOL Guy