80LS1T

Yeah I kinda thought that it was a long shot (finding a metric to standard fitting) I guess I will have to call Summit or Jegs tommorow to find out what I need to do the job. I suppose I should replace both the pressure and the return sides "while I'm at it"! LOL Guy

Very nice! I just hope mine looks like that when I get mine done! Did they custom fit all of that? How much did all of that cost? Guy

I have the steering gear box type steering set up in my 80' ZX. I know that he fitting on my LT1 power steering pump is 3/8" but what size is the line from the gear box, the pressure line? Is there adapter that I can buy that will mate the female ends on both the line and the pump? Thanks, Guy

You can get one from Flatlander Racing like I did. Its a PRO LINE SFI approved balancer for the LT1's. Mine is for a camaro though. You can get one for a Corvette for $189. They are very nice in my opinion. I havn't started my engine yet though. On the Camaro balancer it also eliminates that hub for the balancer. It is just made with it right on the balancer instead. All you have to do is pull the balancer and hub, put a key in the crank and then put on the new balancer! I am not sure if it is the same for the Corvette balancer though. Here's the link... http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html Just look under balancers/dampers and then PRO Line Here's the part # BAL-1-20 Chevy Corvette LT1/LT4 engine. '93-'97 $189 Guy

Does it matter which side of the heater core I route the inlet hose to? I can't remember which hose is the inlet and outlet of the heater. Is it the left or the right for the inlet? Here's a picture of what I think the hose routing should be. The colors of the hoses mean nothing. Is this right? Oh and Mudge I am still confused about which vaccum line goes where on the optispark??? They both look like male connections on the optispark. Thanks, Guy

Well I must have the 96 Cover because I have that CPS hole in the bottom of the cover. When I turn the engine over by hand it doesnt grind? I dont think it will be a problem. I am using a aluminum Griffin 26" X 19". I know now that the one that is the highest on the TB goes to the upper radiator hose. Now which one goes to where for the heater? Also if that Vapor line goes to the radiator(small male connection below the cap) then where does the overflow hose for the radiator go? Thanks, Guy

Yeah I mean that cross over tube from the heads. What about the other 3 lines from the pump? Also why doesnt teh 96 cover work with a double roller timing chain? What makes it different fromt the 95 cover? Guy

Ok but does anybody know which coolant hoses (and vapor line) go where from the LT1 water pump? Guy

Ok I just found out what that hole in the timing cover was for. Its for the cranks sensor on 96+ models. Now about those hoses...I didn't get much from those pages Tim I did get the info on the timing cover from one of them though! Does anybody have a picture or diagram of where these hoses go? Thanks, Guy

What is that hole in the bottom of my LT1 timing cover for. I have the 95+ timing cover. Its on the lower passanger side of the timing cover. Also which hoses go where on the water pump? There are like 5 places for hoses. 1 for upper radiator hose, 1 for lower, where do the other 3 of them go? And where does that vapor line from the rear of the heads go? ALLDATA doesn't have any diagrams of this! Thanks, Guy

Well it should be "one nice looking car" since I have about $14,000 invested in it! Heck $6000+ is invested in the engine and tranny alone. I only have about $1500 left in parts to buy though, so that is good. Yeah I went to a Chevy dealer today to get the VSS connector, back-up light connector, IAC connector, 2 knock sensor connectors, and 8 injector clips for my harness. Yeah the guy told me that they didnt have any of them and that they would have to order them. So he shows me the prices... the VSS was like $32.00, back-up was like $30.00, and the knock sensor connectors were $62.00 a piece!!! I was like are you kidding? I just want that little piece of plastic that plugs into the tranny. He was like yeah thats what the price is for. I told him to wait on them. So they got me for $123.89 for 8 injector clips, VSS connector, IAC connector, and a back-up light connector. Now I know why aftermarket wiring harnesses cost so much, each connector is like $40 a piece! I will post my battery connection question in a different post. Guy

Yeah the IAT is farther forward than this connector. It is right inline with the TPS sensor. I am thinking it almost has to be the IAC connector just from where it is on the harness. Can someone help me with the starter wires? Thanks, Guy

Well I think I just answered my own questions. I looked up the part numbers for the knock sensors and the IAC Valve and they are both different from the 93' to the 96'. So that is probably what that connector is for. What about the connections for the starter??? Guy

Yeah I have most of the wiring done now. I just need to figure out which wires go where on the starter... I have the yellow wire from the ignition---I assume this goes to the small connector on the Starter Solenoid? I have the orange wire for the fuel pump relay---I also assume this goes to the small connector on the Starter Solenoid? And I have a medium red wire from the battery---does this also go to the small connector on the Starter Solenoid? And I also need to know wether or not I need IAC valve? The harness that I bought from Darius does not have a connector for it? There is a connector that looks like it goes to it but it doesn't fit. When I checked the pinout on the computer it was a fan control connect(atleast thats what I think) Mudge are yeah out there? Does anybody know if I need this? It sounds important to me. Here's the description from ALLDATA . Could it be possible that the connector that I think is a fan control connector is really a IAC sensor connector. Since he had a 96' LT1 and I have 93' LT1 there is a good chance that they aren't the same. I know the knock sensors aren't the same because the connectors dont match up! Guy

Yeah I found another manifold for the drivers side but the stock LT1 manifold doesnt fit on the passenger side . No problem though because I have a header that works just fine! It's a little smaller than a block hugger header. So far so good! I took a picture of the engine in the car, to school(tech college) today and boy was everyone impressed! They really loved the paint! Before now no one would beleive me that the engine would fit but now I have proof! Well I gotta get back out in the garage! Guy

WOW! Some dumb@ss ricer boy thought he was getting a good deal on a body kit! Hahahah wait till only that book shows up at the door! $306 for a book! HAHAHAHAHA Sorry I shouldn't laugh.... HAHAHAHHAHHAAH OH MY GOD IS THAT FUNNY!!!!!! GUy

Well I finally finished rebuilding my engine today. I then brought it home and put the tranny back on it and put it in the car. Here's the story behind my night.... http://www.datsun-280zx-lt1.com/LT1andT56-2.html?1049266720390 Guy

WOW!!!! I keep hearing about all the guys doing the LS1 swap but I never get to see the pics. I am very impressed! You da man! Keep the updates coming! Guy

If you buy the V8 engine mounts from MSA you also get a 700R4 tranny mount. If you are going to use a different tranny though, your going to have to fab up a mount. I bought this kit but I would recommend making your own mounts because for what I got, I sure got ripped on the deal! $225 that price is just outragous and I for one learned my leason! If you are going to do the R200/CV (ZXT rear end)swap for the rear end, it is easier than a Z because all you have to do is bolt up the R200, replace U-Joint halfshafts with CV's and change the stub axles to the CV type. With a Z I think you have to use an adapter for the stub axles to CV joint in order for them to work. This is not a big deal but adapters do cost money! Also in a ZX if you go fuel injected you don't have to change anything with the gas tank since it is already set up for fuel injection. However, the fuel pump can only handle so much HP! So if you go with big HP your going to need a bigger pump. Guy

It sounds to me like it is just a loose wire. How new are the battery cables? Besure to clean all the connections and reconnect them. Guy

Personally I think the 280ZX swap is easy(so far)! I think the debate about which is better is really about the weight distribution. With the ZX's firewall being 3" forward from where the Z's firewall is it is not possible to put the engine in the JTR position. So with out aluminum heads and intake the car tends to be more frontend heavy(not desirable). However with a 350 like the LT1/LT4 or just a 350 with aluminum heads and intake, this isn't really a concern anymore. With it in this postion it is more like a Scarb position. I don't think it is a matter of which one has more complications with the swap but more of personal preferance on the car you like. I say if you like the 280ZX's get it. But they both have certain things that you must do different from one another. Guy P.S. ZX's ROCK!!!

Have you checked your connections to the starter from the battery? Also are you sure the battery is good and charged(above 12.0V)? I would check your wires for corrosion and ohm them out. Or are you sure its a short to ground? Guy

I dont think that will work for me. I have an aftermarket wiring harness. According to the Autometer directions you shouldn't just hook it up to the output on the computer because the signal won't be "buffered" or "accurate." I might end up going this route though if it doesn't work the way I think it should be hooked up. Guy

Yeah like Tim said it could be either one of them. The easiest thing to do would be to go to the auto parts store and get some of that die that you can put in your oil and get a black light. Then run your engine for a while or drive it, then check for your leak with the black light. This is a really easy way to find oil leaks. If it were me though, I would probably just drop the pan and replace the gasket. Of course "while I was at it" I would just drop the tranny and put a new rear seal in! LOL Or you could just clean it up really really good with engine cleaner and check it a couple of days later to see exactly where its coming from. Guy

Hey slownrusty...That is one pimp-@ss truck! Very cool! You got a Skyline motor under!? Guy