Lazeum

I talked to the machinist today. I will have to modify the support to make it easier to machine (=cheaper) The "tower" will have to be done on a square piece with chamfers instead of being round. That would avoid the hassle to use a CNC machine to make it. I will also make it one pice instead of 3 pieces as of today to avoid getting parts loose. The plate would have also to be less fancy. Unfortunately, it will be a one shot for me since price is nowhere near what it should be for "regular" customer (I'm ordering with my team xx,000€ of parts every year to his shop so I've got special treatment ) He says regular price for such task should be around 300-400€ per support. You can find something much cheaper anyway in the US, I'm quite sure about that.

I'm not so sure to want to see the wheel being not well fixed against the damper. I don't want to take the risk to see the wheel flying thru my hood .......Who said I'm French

Don't worry, we have our supply on damper here in Europe too! We also have Ford's in Junkyard if I need a second wheel but thanks! Drawings/CAD are not fully ready yet but I'll share them in this topic when they're done. Please notice that if you have a different damper/wheel than mine, support might not work well. If you provide enough information about your setup, that's something easy to check since damper & wheel are just cylinders to design.

My damper is already machined. If I would do it by myself, I would have machined the damper slightly larger to get a good press fit instead. There's not much material left to add bolts to hold the wheel on the damper so welding seems to be the next easiest solution. Regarding the support, I could ask the machinist if it would make sense to make some extra units but don't forget that I'm no longer on the right side of the ocean. I wouldn't have any problem to share drawings or CAD model if you or someone else would like to make some in the States.

I would use a press. It's a quick job, you should get some help if you don't have one, it would be cheap. Make sure to protect the threaded area with your old nut during the process.

For your info, I've received all the bits to start the install process. The plan will be to weld the 36-1 wheel to my damper. The damper for now is machined to be slightly smaller than the wheel. So there's no play to be felt between both parts but I can rotate the wheel around the damper. Hopefully rubber won't melt during the process, I'll be gentle with heat. Regarding the VR sensor support, here's the design: 2 parts, 1 plate & 1 tower.I've added some slots for adjustability. Time to get a quote for it Full Assy

remove the middle rod support. Most likely your 3 ball joints are not well lined up. You would have to play with the linkage to get proper alignment.

it looks indeed easy to do: 4 holes, some rubber mounts, maybe some sealant to avoid leaks and it seems good to go...

it looks very nice! I've got a question regarding the coil pack. I see you put some rubber pads, have you ever experienced issue because of vibrations? I have to install a EDIS coil pack somewhere soon, I was going to avoid putting it on the motor because of heat also. Aren't you concerned about it? It sure looks very clean the way you've done it.

I had the chance to test drive for 1hr a Nissan GTR and I come up to the same conclusion. Level of performance is incredible, passing slow car on the raod is just so easy. I went up to 210kph while passing a car that I was following just 5 second before running at 70kph (the speed limit). it was just ridiculous. My friends were driving Z's in front of me from time to time, they were fighting with their steering wheel while I was driving with one hand looking at features on the dashboard behind with the GTR. I had no fun at regular speed limit (or even x2 times speed limit), the GTR was just too good & too comfortable to enjoy driving it. I was actually quite happy to get back to my Z after this experience, it's so much more fun.

if everything is apart, maybe you could try to find the bet spline position, maybe some teeth are better match than others. you might end up with less shaft play. Working in steering company, if the connection is loose, that something difficult to fix. Regarding your idea of using JB weld, you will fix your steering avoiding it to retract in case of crash. That's the purpose of the connection. So it is trully a "do or die" solution but from a litteral stand point. (on the other hand, if you smash the steering wheel bad enough to retract the column, not sure you'll be alive to appreciate the feature ) I would then try different compound and see if that helps such as bathroom silicone or very thick grease. The stuff "just" needs to avoid being spread out with splines pressure.

thinking about that Leon, I had the issue while I was reinstalling my setup after engine rebuild. It appears rod support are not perfectly straight. Some rotations later and swap between supports got me a quite straight setup easy to operate. This is maybe what happened to you & Jimmy.

Mine is easy to operate, I have also a Cannon intake with firewall rod. Based on inputs gathered on several Z sites, it seems cable is more suitable, it also make low load operation easier to control since rod linkage is linear whereas cable wouldn't by using a cam.

That's good already if you know the mesh filter is in place What kind of oil do you have in your motor? if nothing is wrong, I'm wondering if you could have some much oil fumes that it spurrs out from the catch can. That would be a lot.

In the head cover, you should have a screen to avoid liquid oil to go thru breather hole. Check out your head cover and see if you have this screen. Same goes for the block, there's a grid mesh + a metal sheet screen to avoid liquid projection to go thru the breather hole also. So only fumes should escape from your engine. For your reference, I've got filters on both breathers and they are nearly dry on my freshly rebuilt engine (F54/P79, flat tops, turbo oil pump) so you have something not working properly on your setup. I would: 1- check first the head cover 2- unplug hose from head cover at catch can, plug it to a plastic soda bottle, plug catch can input & run the car to see if oil is coming from top end. 3- reproduce step 2 but on hose coming from block to inspect bottom end. if issue is coming from step 2, act on the head cover (you have spotted it in step 1 already) if it is coming from step 3, you might have to drop the pan to inspect the block from below which will be a pain since you also have the cross member in front of it... I would also think twice about your setup (that I don't know), don't you have too much oil pressure for instance with tuned pump? Special tricks done to it such as block deburred internally, crankshaft work, etc.? Most likely, you've missed something during engine rebuild. I would bet on mesh & screen inside block

...and for replacement, look for ref RW116 & RW117 as shown on blue website. You can get them for cheap on amazon or autozone for instance instead of buying them on dedicated Z stores. I was chasing for specific brand but when I ordered mine, I received SKF bearing in Timken box, so don't be too picky on the brand, they are all the same.

That's a good idea I did not think about. I'll give it a shot

My dizzy is not a stock unit so there's no mark on it. It is a Mallory Unilite. Ive moved the squill shaft since our last post but I did not have the chance to start the car. We'll see if that changes anything. The offset between the rotor & the cap seems to be similar compared to previous setup. Unfortunately, I will be able to try it only next weekend... Regarding compression stroke, I'm 100% positive that bottom end is correctly located. For the head & cam timing, it is only visual but cam lobes position on cylinder #1 are almost symmetrical. if it would be off because of the chain, it would be visible I believe so I discarded this hypothesis. and for rotor orientation, I don't think it should be a factor. What should matter is timing between rotor and sparks/cylinders. The location of the rotor at TDC should not matter as long as spark plug wire #1 is at the correct position. I believe FSM only states squill shaft position to make sure timing would not be one tooth off. My engine is running strong & I have lot of room to play with timing, it would not be the case if I was way off. Since I don't get what is happening I might not think right. I'll report back my findings. if there's anything I should consider, I'll be happy to try Thanks!

I set up rotor to be close to whatever wire I could. I then plug the first wire to be #1, the remaining wires are set according to firing order. The picture you see of the rotor is as it is at TDC. It is not as the book says but engine runs well. I think you're pointing toward something good; I should set everything up perfectly. It would remove one unknown item from my issue list...

issue is still there... I've made a tool to get accurate TDC position. It is an old spark plug, destroyed, drilled, tapped with M8 rod inserted with locknut milled at the end. I found out TDC is actually exactly at the mark on my damper. So the damper is fine. I've also disassembled it, it is also fine, there no rotation motion or what so ever between the hub and the outer pulley. I went back for a trip yesterday with the Z. it is running strong but timing is still at 40°- 45° at idle. It makes no sense!!!!!!! I've checked it with 2 different timing lights; one with an advance knob & one without adjustment. Both give the same result! What can cause such results???? bad timing between bottom end & cam? compatibility issue between spark cables & timing lights? The way dizzy handle sparks? bad timing lights? bad handling from my side (how can I mess up with timing lights measurements? - I've tried induction pick up both ways also)? Bad reading from me (but indicator is 2 inches away for TDC mark)? I've tried to reduce timing, it isn't possible; Anything below 35° makes the engine runs really bad. So I'm at the sweet spot for idle & total advance is ok since I've got plenty of power & smooth engine operation at high rpm. Something is not right, I'd like to find out what... I would be the first one to run a L6 with 40° at idle & 58-60° total??? I'll drop the current setup for Megajolt in the near future, I need to make sure everything is right before changing everything for a new setup that would need some debugging. ========================= on a side note, I've also tried for what is worth to measure timing at idle while engine is not running. I've setup engine at TDC on cyl #1 on compression. Then, I've measured angle on dizzy cap & dizzy position back to a common mark. I come to the same conclusion as timing lights, I'm way out.... I've measured arc length & radii to come up with angle: -10° at cap & +17° at dizzy. It makes a total angle of 27°. Timing is then around 54° since dizzy is twice slower than crank. There're errors in my measurement for sure but I'm nowhere near 15° timing at idle...

you might want to check for leaks also. You might have too much air somehow getting into the engine at idle.. If you vacuum system is not plugged, that could be your "leak"

you're correct. I believe you might have setup your dizzy one tooth off. You would need to remove the oil pump to set up the squill shaft as it should. I've done the same mistake during my rebuild (but I found it out before cranking it for the first time)

Set engine at TDC on compression stroke, remove the dizzy cap and check if the dizzy is pointing towards cylinder #1. if it is in between 2 wires, you know you have missed something regarding timing.

I've got a 4070LP Mallory pump on my 240z with triples. Fuel pressure has never been higher than 2 psi whereas previous Carter 4070 pump was in need of a regulator to limit pressure to 3.5 psi. Flow however is high with the pump, just not a lot of pressure and adjustment at the pump did not make any change.

I see 3 explanations: - Defect in piston casting (very unlikely) - Ring gap was not in spec - Ring did not overlap properly the center wavy ring (I forgot the correct name )