Lazeum

The yellow pinion looks really yellow, this one looks white to me I've done it as well but my wheels are not in specs (225/50-15) so the speedo is still not so correct but it gets better (except I read miles & roads are in kph in Europe)

have you also done something on lash pads with regrinded rockers or did you keep them the way they are with the recess?

The car overall looks really good But the front looks very similar to C6, I have the feeling somebody took the C6 front clip, made it more aggressive with a kit. I was expecting more dramatic changes based on spoilers. Regarding the rear, it looks like a Camaro rear end, so cheaper than what I would expect from a Vette (it would have looked more expensive on a Camaro if the vette would have come first... ). Anyway, I would buy, this is what matters, right?

The rockers on my head were new but maybe not the lash pads... Is there any hard layer on rocker tips as well on contact patch area with lash pads? Regarding reason, could a too tight lash between cam & rocker cause this defect?

Pete, What could have caused such wear? Resurfacing the rocker would also get rid of the hardened layer in contact with pads, wouldn't it? I might have the same issue. I've noticed valve lash on my engine are very sensitive, lash changes to some extent according to cam position while it should not change.

I don't have the feeling the car sounds that bad. Maybe, I've got the same issue then. Have you tried again to adjust your valve train? I'm sure the answer would be yes but I'm asking still How does the sound change while driving in higher rpm? I'm wondering if it couldn't also be related to the cam? A friend is running a 3.2L from Rebello, It makes tons of noise on valve train & apparently it is normal. I'm running a Rebello cam also on my engine for info. Maybe you should ask Isky who machined your cam some inputs on your situation.

I love your link, I'll keep that in mind for me as well. To the OP, there's a thread full of great info on OBX diff. It is in the FAQ.

Nothing special on mine but I like the pictures taken by a friend; stock in perfect shape, no crack on stock dash, MSA carpet on center & shift knob from "1 Tuff Z" & very basic Clarion Stereo

I haven't changed those but from my memory, they were not big bolts. So I would tend for M8x1.25, regarding their length they were around 25mm. Those are sensitive regarding stress, you do not want to have your engine loose. Get the correct grade 8.8, nothing less. Another hint would be to check the thread on the rubber mount. Since you've purchased some M8 bolts for your thermostat housing, just try to see if those would fit in it. Mailbox full? I'll check it out. thanks for the info

those are M10x1.50 bolts, most likely. I don't have the length however since I don't have anything on those holes on my car. For the length, check the thickness of your AC support & add 20mm at least. Those bolts (thermostat housing, AC support) are not very sensitive but be careful with the bolt grade you're using. Ideally, you want 8.8 for these. ...and glad I've been able to help

If you're talking about thermostat housing bolts to the head, those are M8x1.25. Their lenght is different. I've got 25, 35 & 75mm in my own database for their related length but I recall having some problem during reassembly. So if you source some, get some at 70mm for instance also. Bolts are so cheap, it's an easy insurance to avoid loosing one day hunting for bolts. If you're talking about something else, please let me know, I've measured, replaced & recorded everything during my last engine rebuild.

The sensor mount cost me 100€ but it was done by a supplier of my company as a personal "side project". Hard rev limiter is using the MJLJ coil power to stop ignition, since I don't use this feature, I'm going to be able to have a hard rev limiter. I need to spend some time with wiring diagram. It is most likely a cable to unplug next to the fuse box & to connect to this unplugged cable power wire fromt he MJLJ.

I realize that having my coilpack plugged on +12V from original coil, MJLJ will not be able to control rev limit since it is not powering the coils. The way to do the install with rev limiter would be to get the tacho in between MJLJ & coil pack. In another words, it means I should disconnect the wire going from the ign. fuse box to the tacho and replace it with a wire going from the MJLJ to the tacho.

During vacations, I was able to finish the project. I haven't started the car yet but the system reacts with the sensor & everything is done. Here are some pictures of the sensors & other EDIS components installed inside the car. The support made for VR sensor is installed & working as it should. The 36-1 wheel has also been welded to the crank pulley. I was afraid about heat that could have damaged the rubber part of the damper. So I've been careful about that. The wheel & damper are massive enough to dissipate the heat enough without any problem. The part was barely hot to the touch. I still need to sandblast the part & paint it to look good before final installation. I also installed the coils on the fender of the car. The location chosen is the one where the 4 points from the coils are in contact with the car body. So it is not 100% straight but it is the only way without any extra support to locate it properly. To power the coils, I took a 12V source from the original coil. To leave the original harness in place, I soldered an extra wire under the dash. The wire is Black w/ white stripe. I also need to tap together the 2 sides of the ballast resistor no longer needed with Megajolt. Finally I've finished TPS install with a support made in 0.5mm thick steel plate. When I plugged my laptop to the MJLJ, I can read what's inside, I can calibrate my TPS to read 0 / 100% (but I don't see the area moving that much on timing map - engine might need to run for that) & setup everything accordingly. I need custom spark plug wires to finish the install which is now complete. I expect to run the car only in spring, I need to fix my fuel tank first. It is contaminated & fuel lines are getting clogged each time I drive the Z.

Where ever the Z might have stayed, I believe the rust spots are always the same. Cars in the middle east (rust belt) might not look any better than a car in the UK. You can check the usual spots: fenders, doors, frame rails, trunk lid area, etc. I've seen how a modern car would behave in UK such as a Nissan Silvia (not known for its good rust protection, I admit - it is a Nissan ), I can't imagine how badly your Z could look like if do not protect it properly. Luckily, you've got good stuffs in UK for cars (it is not the case in France ) See the link below for info. They can remove any dirts, rust & whatever sticks to the chassis to get it back to baremetal with no effort & e-coat it afterwards. http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/restoration-guide.html

ok, thanks, will do Not much to see yet but EDIS6 controller is in the car, installed with the remaining harness. I just need to install the VR sensor, solder the wires, weld the wheel & it should be almost good to go. Xmas vacations should be interesting

Where should be the tooth on the 36-1 wheel relative to VR sensor? Should they be centered, in front of each other? should the VR sensor on the edge of the tooth instead of in the center? By default, I will shoot for everything aligned and centered but maybe I'm wrong...

I would also check the fuel pump & fuel supply. You might have very low fuel flow explaining why your engine runs badly & why it is hard to start.

If you change the internal on your engine, timing requirements will be different. Idle timing, total timing and everything in between will be different. You won't get full advantage of your new engine without a good tuned ignition.

Thanks for the comments . The goal is to have a trouble free operation. We'll see how it goes... Regarding EDIS, I'm still thinking about how to get 10° exactly. VR sensor & 36-1 are not going to be perfectly aligned so I'm expecting an offset there. MJLJ or MS can adjust the offset but can it be done with EDIS alone? I'm quite sure, not. I've added some adjustment also for this matter on the VR sensor mount. For information, I was short on shielded cables for VR sensor, I found some for microphone, very cheap (1 meter = 1€).

Just wanted to share my little ignition winter project. I wanted to keep my triple carbs but I wanted better ignition. I'm sure it would also come with better emission which is also a good point. Here’s the car : ’72 240z with 2.8L L28 engine coming from a 280zx. I'm converting it to Megajolt this winter during snow (& salt) season. I've tried to be exhaustive with my presentation. Only big advice I've got: Get good crimping tools! You must invest in one pair of pliers at least. I've got 3: one for moley pins, 2 for regular flat pins. I would discourage anybody who would intent this process with regular pliers. The engine is a "Hot" street L28, expected to have low & mid range torque: - Head milled, ported, polished, unshrouded, combustion chambers CC’ed, new valve seats, Dual lub systems (internal in cam + spray bar) made by Braap. - Cam with asymmetrical profile from Rebello Racing with adequate springs, rockers, etc. - Bottom end is new also with new pistons, rings, bearings, HF oil pump, etc. Compression ratio is around 9.0:1 / 9.5:1. - 3x Weber 40DCOE with ported Cannon intake. Each runner is linked with the others with a canal to balance pressure between them. - 6-2-1 MSA coated exhaust header + custom 2,5†exhaust - Soon to disappear Mallory Unilite distributor I’m in process of converting the car. Wiring is almost done, I now need to focus on mechanical installation. I’ve chosen to run MJLJ with TPS option but I don’t exclude to convert it to MAP later. We'll see how it runs first with TPS. For TPS, I’ve picked one up from a BMW 323ti (E36). The TPS does not have any spring loaded control, its shape for the shaft is easy to reproduce (a round ø8mm shape with one flat) & it is easy to get at any junkyard. Only concern would be that it is not water tight. I got it in Europe for 15€ with the entire throttle body (people get rid of it for better 325i unit) I also got the one from Autosportlabs webshop but it is big, spring loaded with complex shaft print, so I won’t use it after all. Regarding install, I’ve installed MJLJ box on the sidekick panel on passenger side with a relay support + fuses. I’ve made a wiring diagram based on info from the Autosportlabs “how to†section & from one chart found on this board. Only difference is the way I expect to power up the EDIS coils. I’m going to plug the +12V source from the coil + side since the tach is triggered this way. This wiring diagram is good for pre-72 Z, others would likely needs the tach adapter & other type of wiring since Tach changed in 73. All wires are crimped with proper tools. When wires needed to be connected together; I’ve twisted them together, soldered them & protected them with shrink tubes. Wires are all protected with high temp hoses under the hood. For VR sensor, I’ve made a CAD model of the front of the engine to design a support. Support, in aluminum, is made with a CNC machine. I’ve taken into consideration some margin for adjustability. The drawback from the support is I need to ditch the stock fan & go with e-fan instead. I wanted to do it anyway so I did not bother… 36-1 wheel is coming from the EDIS car donor. Crank damper has been machined to be slightly smaller than the wheel. I cannot feel any play but wheel can rotate freely around the pulley. The plan is to install the VR sensor, get the wheel in front of it accordingly, get a mark done & spot weld the wheel in place (hopefully the weld will not hurt the rubber, I’ll be careful about that). I would have to redo it, I think I would choose to pressfit the wheel instead of welding it but it is too late. EDIS coils have some rubber pads installed to avoid vibrations. Pads also raise the coils allowing me to get it install on a flat surface without any specific support. Pads are male/male type with ø20 OD. I had to make a thread on each Coil support hole with Helicoils to make pads fit. TPS will be mounted on carbs rod linkage instead on carb shaft. My DCOE are the old style, there’s no hole on housing to install easily a support for TPS. Drawback with the way I expect to install TPS is that I won’t have 90° angle between idle & WOT but around 45-60°. Hopefully TPS resolution / sensitivity will be sufficient. The support will be a very simple steel plate design bent, nothing really fancy. Still need to design it and make it. To finish the first post, here's how my install looks like for now (or almost, wires have been setup, I don't see anything anymore from the driver side) The next steps would be to try the new support, check 36-1 wheel position, get the wiring finished under the hood and install EDIS components.

I've got a F54 / p79 combo and the head is not shaved at lot. CR is around 9.0/9.5 as other people have suggested above. It is a great combo with plenty of torque. The Cam on my engine is coming from Rebello. Do not forget to think about timing management with your engine; to get the most HP out of your engine, you'll need something appropriate. Regarding part supplies, I got everything from http://www.clarksdiscount.com/ They were great with me, very responsive & very fast (order done on Monday in France, parts were at home on Friday). I've got nothing but good comments so I share the link.

Here's a picture of my block while it was coming back from the machine shop if that could help. If you remove the trans & tilt the engine, it might be feasible inside the car.

Some coils are made for electronic ignition, some for points. Your coils might be made for electronic ignition. There's something related to resistance between contact point Some coils are around 0.5ohm, some around 1.5ohm. On my past setup, with Mallory Unilite ignition (optical triggered like yours) + Mallory 6AL module and unadequate coil, I fried the 6AL module (some capacitor & resistor inside the box have melted) So it might be worth some checks, especially if you haven't changed your coil during your dizzy change.

Gollum, Leon, I'm ok with what you're saying about detonation & timing, we're on the same page. Detonation is definitely related with time. During my studies, we were reviewing detonation & physics behind, detonation measurement is expressed with second as a unit. It seems my chart is confusing things up. My attempt is not to tell that detonation has to be considered as torque related (even, if I admit, this is what the chart is showing) but it is to show that at one specific motor state, the more timing you put, the closer you could get from detonation- if we can even create some. It shows as well that detonation can limit torque output since we might have too much detonation before reaching top torque output (it would be called "knock limited" engine, wouldn't it?). The detonation threshold can also be above max torque, this is what will happen when RPM are very high for instance. In this case, max torque output can be reached with no chance of detonation. This is what you've explained with Honda engine & I agree. Another way of seeing the physics: If you put the engine on a dyno, maintain its state constant (load, rpm, IAT, coolant T°, etc.) & you increase advance from a conservative starting point, we will see the torque output going up fast first & flat out the closer we get from max output. This is if the motor at this state is not knock limited. If at the same state the engine would have been knock limited, we would have noticed some detonation before reaching max torque output. The potential of the motor at this particular state would not be optimum, we would have to leave some torque on the table to be safe. It could also very be not a problem if for instance this state would not be important. We could also debate about the efficiency of the combustion with detonation, it will not be as afficient as clean burn, it would also impact the shape of the curve I've drawn... As an example, on my particular car with L28 with centrifugal dizzy (Mallory Unilite) without vaccum advance & max timing at 3000rpm, I can clearly see that detonation would occur at max torque range / high load - around 3500rpm. After 4000rpm, there's no sign of detonation (I might not hear it also but I do at 3500). With what I have to avoid detonation, I could either retard total timing or push max timing above 3500rpm. At the end, I put a threshold on torque output but I should have put a point on the curve, it would have avoided such debate Writting on a board is more difficult than debatting around a beer, it brings confusion if my point is not crystal clear