Lazeum

That's a nice way to do with creative lathe solution

you cannot remove the washer and the O-ring that go into the outer shaft. You cannot remove and change neither the boot. As I said ironicaly, serviceability should not be really a concern

I'm in the process of swapping a R200 onto my 72 240z. I just wanted to share how I managed to reduce the length of my 280z halfshaft since I haven't seen many "how to", the ones I've seen did not do the trick for me (you lucky US guys with nice machine shops ). I've got 3 different shafts available. At first I thought one of them was shorter since they did not collapse all the same way. In order to find out, I've disassembled them all. All needed new U-joint, boot & paint anyway. I found inside them grease mixed with water and rust because of boot being broken, it made an emulsion and become almost solid (like soap). Design of the shafts was slightly different (taper before the splines) but overall length was the same for all. Let's get back to the shaft shortening. My first attempt was to use a lathe and mill the end of the inner shaft to reproduce the tip. Member 2126 has done it so it is possible but I faced 2 issues: - Lathes available were too small to handle the width of the U-joint fourche. - Hardened material + interrupted cut made the work very difficult. Tool did not resist. We did not even insist with carbide bits. It was not my tooling, I did not want to destroy everything... Other solution considered would be to cut the end of the shaft and weld the "star" washer. Since material are not the same, I was worried about strenght of the weld + I would have lost serviceability (we are disassembling every day our halfshafts, aren't we? ) So my solution was to cut the shaft 0.5" shorter starting from the end of the splines with an wire EDM process (electro erosion). (You can also see the result of my first attempt with the lathe at the end of the splines, we removed 0.1mm prior to stop) Then I choose to drill a hole and tap it since only outer metal is hardened to fit an M8x1.25 10.9 bolt. Then, I've created an insert from mild steel to recreate the tip of the inner shaft with bolt shape head to make it centered. Washer is still free to move and rotate. Loctite will be used to make sure bolt does not move when everything is reassembled. I still have to chamfer the tip of the shaft if I don't want to cut the boot I'll have to put back on. this is an easy task. I'm only concerned about the bolt head size. If it doesn't fit (which I highly doubt since 0.5" might be way enough), I can still redo the spacer and use a tapered head bolt instead. I believe this solution can be made by any shop that has cutting tools and a standard lathe. So I'm pretty happy with my method I have attached as well the drawing of the insert for whoever that wants it.

I'm bringing back this thread to the top Since my last post on this thread I'm changed my job. I'm now working for delphi which has a electrical division (Packard). I had the opportunity to get some connectors and tool from the prototype shop. Since the last post, I haven't taken care of the wires since everything was fine. I know it is not good Everthing is now clamped now (not soldered) very tight and sealed. Here are pictures of the plugs & connectors. the pliers are just awesome, I even use them with regular butt plugs without plastic cover. It makes very nice and tight connections I've covered with heat shrink tubing. The pliers The connector (with seals in orange and light grey) Once clamped on wire

I've changed my email with one from hotmail, it works now Thanks for the help.

Yes I can. I have a hotmail that should work without any problem. I've figured this out already by myself for a while

Of course it burns! but to get an AFR of 19:1, I meant the oxygen went thru the engine without any reaction, it went it and out without any major explosion...

What does that mean? do you know? Should I contact my ISP in order to solve this? Thanks btw for specificaly looking at my problem

I don't receive any email from HBZ. I'm pulling back the thread up then. I've followed post-it thread about trouble shooting without any success. I've checked my email address 10 times, no spam filter activated on my web provider. I've tried to get an email to reset my password, I've never received the email neither. Am I the only one? Other forums work ok with no email issues. Since I've seen the intro message about inactivated email accounts, I'm reacting, I don't want to lose my profile. help!

I was thinking about your AFR level. 19:1 is super lean (16:1 also). there's almost all the oxygen going through the system. It seems oxygen does not burn at all. If I check AFR in my exhaust pipe after shutting down the car, this is the kind of AFR I've got. You either have: no gas as Dearon stated, no explosion or bad explosion (detonation, knock?). A lean condition like this should create something obvious you should be able to feel or to hear. How does this lean peak translate from a driver stand point? Could it be an issue with the distributor? I haven't heard anything like this but could it be a resonance in the system (with springs/cam for instance) since you have something "nobody has ever seen" ? For my own knowledge, what is the impact of cam advance? Why do we do that?

You've written "At base and up to about 3500RPM, the car is so rich". This is idle jet range. So yes, it was worth addressing (relevant? it is up to you but since it is for a race car, I understand what you meant) Afterward, you might be right. I'm just shooting ideas as stated I'm nowhere an expert. It might not be an issue with the carbs then... I'm interested thou to know how you could fix the issue.

eds240z, you've got a similar setup to mine (L28, flat top, 40DCOE, MSA cam stage 2, headers) I run 50f9, 140 main, 180 air, F11, 45 acc pump. My car is not fully tuned yet: timing are off, hesitation under heavy very suddent load, etc... but my setup works already quite well. If you have hesitation to take off I would try to play with the idle jet. I would try 50f9 and see how it goes. Do you know how many turns you've opened your idle mixture screw from bottoming? That would help you to check a rough idea to where you stand so far. If you need 50f9, you should have turned your screws at least 3 turns whereas you should target 1 to 1.5. 2eighTZ4me, the way you describe your friend's setup make me feel the car is way out. 220 for main is huge. Baseline should be: main = 4x venturi size. 220/4 = 55 which is bigger than your carb. I would go down to 180 (44x4) at least. Check also the idle, idle mixture screws are probably way out. idle jet are probably too big as well. I'm nowhere (yet!!!) a reputable weber tuner but I would suggest to consider to start tuning from scratch with a more solid setup. Main = Venturi x 4 Air = main + 50 Idle jet to get idle mixture screws turn 1 to 1.5 turn. However, I have no idea of the impact the advance on your cam could have on the setup....

eds240z, you need to give more info on your setup (engine specs, jettings, type of DCOE, venturis?) if you've changed cam, timing could be adjusted a bit as well. I would assume bigger cam brings more air flow at high rpm. Without jet change you might be lean. This is just a guess. I'm also confused with your statement, you say it run strong after some adjustments but afterwards you states it smells gas and runs like crap... Regarding issues, you need to separate them and work one by one: - hesitation to take off with moderate acceleration => transistion circuit - Hesitation when you floor it fast => Acc pump circuit - Hesitation at WOT => Main circuit (main & air jets) As a first comment, I agree with akumazeto: 40f9 for idle jet seems to be a little bit small, I run 50f9 and I'm considering 55f9 with my setup. If you are willing to invest some money ($300-$500 for new setup), your best friend would be a O2 wideband sensor with datalogging capabilities.

Thanks for your comment! I feel good Lowrider, Glad I have been helpful Now you need to update your pictures! If you find the solution for the gap let me know, I need to adjust too.

I would try to blow air first

Your car looks nice. I will be even cleaner if you could align your hood I fought with mine for weeks until I found the solution: untight the 2x 2 bolts on the hood, with the hood opened, you in front of the car. Pull the top of the hood toward you while you're pushing (gently!) with your knee on the emblem (to rotate the hood clockwise if you look at your car from the passenger side), tighten back the 4 bolts => Hood aligned

I dig the one of 1FastZ too. 2+2 can be very nice http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133481

I'll check that next weekend and report back Regarding the rack I don't think the problem is coming from it since I lock the coupler with my hands to test the steering line. For sure it is in between the coupler and the wheel. Thanks all for your help

I've read this post when I was searching Do you mean my issue should be the U-joint being worn? However it seems the U-joint does not move when I rotate de steering wheel which let me think someelse is going on. I'll investigate furthermore I specificaly check the u-joint for any wear I could feel. Could it be the steering shaft having some play into the U joint connection?

Since I owe the Z (72 240z) the steering wheel always had a play, meaning I can rotate the steering wheel 2-3° without moving the rest of the steering system. At first I thought it was the rubber coupler being shot but I found out the U-joint on top of the coupler does not move when I steer the wheel. Today I disassembled the wheel, I was expecting the splines connexion to be shot which would explain my problem with no luck (actually it's a good news ) Now I'm out of idea, something is going on between the upper steering shaft and the U joint on top of the coupler. I'm wondering how the connexion between the upper and lower steering shaft is made. I guess this is a slip joint since the service manual talks about retractable steering system in case of crash. Does anybody experience this issue? How do you address it? Do I need to change my column with one in better condition? I haven't seen anything mentioning this kind of problem on the board. Am I the only to wonder about it? Most important question: It is unsafe to drive the car like this? (I drive it during weekends for 1.5 years now - Besides this feeling, Car feels awesome on the roads with very precise steering) Thanks for your input

I would agree with you that sucks Money talks... Citroën is doing good, Loeb is an amazing driver (too good???) I wish they were releasing street cars out of those rally versions as they did in the past with Group B cars. Citroën is LAME as far as sport car now. The "sportiest" C4 at the dealer is a N/A 2.0L 180hp FWD for almost 3000lbs I owed an Lancer EVO VIII that was an amazing car! I wish Ford and Citroën were doing sport car that good...

I don't know what it could change... Somebody would have to give a try

I'm using electrolysis with 3 gallons tank max and a battery charger: 12v / 2.5A , so 12V in 10Ga is really OK. The more Amps, the faster the reaction (I wouldn't recommend plugging 110v or 220V though)

Just small off topic pictures of Webers to help us going thru this long winter That would be something sweet to do on a Z. Chevy 327 with 4x45DCOE. First challenge would be to find the intake manifold... Second one would be to tune it up! Anybody knows why they drill holes on the top cover cap? I've seen many cars with DCOE with drilled caps lately (all with 45DCOE). The car is a 68 Bizzarrini 5300 GT seen at Paris Classic car show (Retromobile) this weekend This is how the car looks like

Yes, Acura Integra. I have no clue about the year model. I would try the latest ones. Door weatherstrip could be straight with no beads or with only one to fit your Z (for the upper corner). Obviously it needs to be long enough, you can check that out by yourself prior to take a ride to the junkyard