Lazeum

Your Z looks good, it's too bad you have to get rid of it. I do have an Evo. I did not understand what money pit means with an Evo after owning one for 1 year. Then I start to mod it, failures happened (not sure it was because of mods), clutch has required some changes, etc... It's a budget of $2500 for a Tcase + $1300 for a clutch + services + gas (average 16 MPG) + tires every 15000 miles, etc... BUT IT'S AN AWESOME CAR!!! (I would buy it again, no problem)

Regarding the paint, it's the Red paint of the Dodge Viper. It looks orange on the pictures but it's only red My friend was parked next to me with an Audi TT, they did not touch his car... I believe the idiot who did that intentionnaly targeted my Z

Thanks guys for your support I'll do everything I can tomorrow to fix this mess as soon as I can. I hope they can do it within one week which would be awesome... It still money I did not expect to spend Stupid part is that I was going to have a meeting with some locals to see others Z and share ideas tomorrow night... It's going to be probably without my Z

It happened this evening. The whole passenger side of the car is keyed. The paint is gone, I can see the bare metal now It pisses me off to find my car like this. Some people are really retarded, they have no dignity. The paint was in awesome condition, the whole car is... I mean was very nice. What do you guys advise? I'm going to file a complain with the cops tomorrow, call the insurance and see if I can fix the mess. Worst part is that I'm planning to leave the country soon with the car, so I don't have much time to fix it. What would need to be done? Can a body shop fix the damaged areas or will they have to repaint half of the car to make this **** disappears? I need some input, please help I can just let you know that my car or not, the next one I see damaging a car will not be safe with me around!!! Here is the mess

If you get the code, who can cut the key to specs? Can a regular shop do it or should I go to Nissan dealer? I have a non-working "new" key (which looks thicker than the working key) and a blank key which need some work done.

Here is a link with a lot of vintage wheels for those who are looking for some wheel name http://www.ratdat.com/?page_id=101

I'd love to know more also about those wheels. They look like Konig B.Bomb which is another knockoff.

I've tried 3 different blow off/dump valves with my daily driver (Mitsu Lancer Evolution) I've got the stock plastic one. Good drivability, no noise, hold boost up to 19 psi, no adjustments, very few part throttle fluttering, 100% recirc. Good piece but as soon as you mod your car, it leaks => loss of power. Then the Forge RS, huge piston (50mm), hold boost up to +25psi (I've never been higher but can do way more, up to 35psi for some people), some noise but nothing crazy, poor drivability (the car was not smooth), a lot of fluttering at part throttle whatever was the adjustment, 100% recirc. It gives very good results for people who race their car Mine was anodized black with FORGE lettering in raw aluminum color http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0006&product=FMDVRSR I have now an APS 2/3 recirc, 1/3 VTA. Hold boost very well (25psi easy), adjustable (you can play with the ratio recirc./VTA), can be loud at +15psi with a Psiiiiit (with snow on the hood grid, I see the snow jumping on my windshield when the bov evacuates air), drivability is awesome (better than the stock plastic unit). People were scared to use it to substitute the stock 100% recirc with the APS unit because of rich mixture during gear change but it shows that it does not. http://www.airpowersystems.com/us_spec/evo/bov/blow.htm Best Bov for Evos are APS, Forge (racing only), stock Evo MR metal Bov ($80 at Mitsu dealer) and Tial. Now for L28et and other turbo engine, I don't know how to compare if there's less boost, it might be different.

You might find some info on the following thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130189

Your car looks really nice Are those bumpers the european version? or did you shaved the US version? Do you intent to do a grid as well in between the front bumper and the air dam?

There's a lot of info for sure Which is awesome. However, I find that weird that it's difficult to get good connectors. None of the local auto parts stores has some decent connectors... Most of the people at auto stores I discussed with just told me to use butt splices with works but are far from being the best solution according to this thread

To search, I'm using Google as well. To make a search about valve cover for instance, I put the following code into Google. http://www.evolutionm.net is using the same forum engine. We do have the 15 seconds feature as well.

I think they lost the soul of the original show. The voice of KITT is lame, it's not the voice itself but more what Kitt is saying. I'm not sure the Mustang fits as a Super Car. Being european, I do not see the Pontiac as a regular car I could see 10 times a day. They're only Ford products on the road. It looks like a giant 2 hours Ford commercial with Ford commercials breaks. It's full of clichés: bad guy who likes to make people suffer, just by looking at faces, you know if characters are good guys or bad guys. The morphing (technically ok) is stupid. The airflow around the car when it's going at >200mph is ridiculous and the story about the gas consumption made me laugh (which is already good ). The original show was like this also and I liked it. Maybe I'm just getting old ( ) but the show is not for me anymore.

I've heard that a mix of wheel washer solution mixed my water (30% / 70%) works very well with a brush. I do it to clean the tip of my exhaust and the bumper around on my DD, it works very well. I've also heard you should clean your engine while it is running (no need for it to be hot)

Thank all for your advices. I'm going to order some connectors, I would like to be able to disconnect anything if needed. The friction tape is a good tip I did not know about it. I'm going to clean the mess under my hood soon

Awesome, thanks a lot I've seen this link http://www.weatherpack.com/weatherpackfaqs.html Napa might carry them, I'll give a shot tonight

It's good to know that wires should be soldered. I'm pretty sure I've read different stories somewhere on the net. I'm going to look for them. Regarding the connectors (Weathertight), I'm also going to look for them. I had no luck with Google (in 5 minutes) to find any info yet. Then the Marette, That's an ugly solution I need to fix for sure... I don't like it neither (it bought the car with it) Thanks guys for your inputs

The way wires are connected under the hood in my 240z needs to be improved. So far, there's some plastic caps with internal thread which clamp wires togother. It works but for how long? It looks awkward + I am sure there're better solutions. I need your ideas This is how my setup looks currently it's messy and not very organised. What do you suggest? - I can solder them (I've heard that wires should never be soldered in car) - Buy some regular clamps for 2 wires but I can attach 2 wires at the same clamp. - Other solution? If you have some pictures, please show me

I haven't heard very good comments about them neither. They are saling turbo parts on the net with wrong pictures which lead people to purchase product they did not expect (it was an O2 housing for Mitsu Evo Turbo)

I think your car looks fantastic I love the combo Grey paint, Sportmax in black.

They all love the Z in Michigan. I've got thumbs up too. The gas tank was leaking really bad 10 minutes after i bought it (I lost 5 gallons of gas at the gas station ) , a lot of people stopped to help me, we were like 6 or 7 around my car to find out what was going on, it was 11pm. I'm part of the Mitsu Evo community also, everybody asks me to come to meets with the Z instead of the Evo to stare at the car I've got a lot of "It was my dream car years ago" from my bosses, my friend's parents. From some friends, the comments are "Please find one for me!" Girls and guys coming to my house have the same reactions when they look at the car: SWEEEEET!!!!! The Evo is a girls repelant, the Z attracts them I'm looking forward for summer!

I'm using a link which I like a lot. It helps to understand wheel/rim package and make sure everything fits http://www.rims-n-tires.com/info_specs.jsp

I have an Evo with bolt ons and a 240z and I agree with you, the datsun is going up but the Evo still has his value. I consider the Evo like my Daily driver (who says Beater?? ) since I've got the Z. If the new Evo X is not far better compared to the current one, Evo 8/9 value will stay high. However, it will probably never be a classic like the Z is or is going to be. For the OP autor, the Evo probably had a big laggy turbo. An Evo should make you hit the seat easy at each accelation

On Classic Z board I've found some info about the MSD tach adapter which seems to be very similar to the mallory unit. I guess I was right about how to plug it http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13085 another question: I cannot find the tach wire According to service manual, it should be a black/white wire. I highly doubt the previous owner who installed the system cut or removed the wire. I've check everything with no luck, I did not find the tach wire . The obvious solution (but not the easiest) would be to check the wire right behind the tach, cut it (since I don't know where it goes) and replace it with a new one. According to what I've seen my tach is the 4 wires version, where should i then plug the 4th wire since the mallory Hyfire unit has only one wire for the tach? I put picture of the system, please I need help This is on the left fender (You can see the carb on the lower left corner) Pic of the bottom of the tach. I do not see neither the white/black wire the service manual is talking about...

There are many questions and threads about tach adapter but none of the threads shows how to tap the adapter. Of course the tach doesn't work (I wouldn't ask the question otherwise ) My setup first: 72 240z with L28, Mallory Unilite ignition, Mallory Hyfire VI-Al. I found the manual not clear, I'm confused and I would like to check is everything is understood before doing mistakes with the car There's also a diode provided with the adapter, do I need to install it? I haven't read anything about it. I've made a pic with how I think I should tap everything from the Hyfire unit manual as well as from the adapter one. Am I correct Please advice Can't we also plug the tach as it was before the ignition, with a wire going from the (-) side of the coil to the tach? Will I fry the tach by doing it??? Thanks guys in advance