Lazeum

I did not think a track hoe was that strong. I would expect the bridge to be in better shape... Good pics, btw

When I wanted to check mine, I came to the same conclusion... 2500 rpm at 60 mph in 4th gear (1.00 ratio), I found 2,90 too. I think we made a mistake to our calculation somewhere...

I had a source for cheap seals to adapt but I went with another route. I went to a junkyard, picked up some rubber seals from a Renault Twingo (not common in the states, I know . For those who don't know the car, it is a small sedan with a lot of round shapes, the weatherstrip does not have any corner. It makes it aesy to install. A Renault Twingo, there's over 1,000,000 of those here in France.... Moreover, it is thicker uncompressed and thinner when compressed => it should seal the door very well There's no need for glue neither, there is a metal rail with need to be clamped instead. I'm sure there're other car in the US that might fit... Dodge Neon or Minivan maybe. Pictures Left MSA Weatherstrip kit - Right the Twingo Weatherstrip Lenght is important too! The one I've got was longer than required, you just have to cut them to adjust. It cost me 20€ it fits perfect, it looks even better than the kit I had before. Oh and btw, I don't have to feeling the doors will fall apart each time I close them anymore.

I've got some news regarding the car. I've done some logs with a wideband this past weekend and I've got first answers to my questions - My AFR are rich everywhere, I'm always between 10.5 and 12.5 with very rick peak when I hit the gas pedal. - Idle is at 12.0/12.5 - Ticking noise: knowing that my engine is running very rich, it would make detonation out of the picture - Spark plugs were black last time I've checked but they were brown before. I might have removed some leaks between carbs and manifold; ticking noise decreased a lot since I've played with mounting bolts. AF mix might have been leaner before. So next step for me: - Idle adjustment - Cam lash adjustment - Carb tuning. should I start with main jets to lean everything or with idle jet? I post a screen shot of a log. I'm learning how to use WB so no WOT logs yet...

This weekend I went back to 50F9, the car idles ok (that was expected from the discussion we had last week) It is rough, I suspect the idle mixture screws to be NOK. I'll see that later. I made sure as well the carbs were not overtorqued on the intake manifold. I've tightened all the bolts ok, then remove 1 turn out on each bolt. After a trial, the ticking noise is much less present than before but it still barely exists. I've just checked advance at idle (900rpm), I am around 9-10º of advance. It is not optimized but it is good enough to beleive timing does not create any problem. (no check at 3000rpm as I should have => no tack and by myself to do it) I have to take care of legal issue with the car right now (she's not street legal anymore at the end of the week because of turning light colors and hand brake). I'll let you know how everything is doing... Next step will be with a wideband. I should be able to see more precisely what is going on, especially at acceleration. People say we are learning from our mistakes, I'm definitely learning. Thanks guys for your help

I'm a product engineer for Delphi. I'm based in Paris, France. Job is good, people to work with absolutely nice I've also got amazing twisty roads all around my home to play with the Z...

zredbaron, I've spend the rest of my Sunday reading Weber books. I do understand what you meant regarding how the idle circuit works. I thought fuel would go through the idle jet with no interference, this is not true. I have seen as well how the rubber joint are supposed to do (decoupling). However, I'm still wondering if there were some leaks in the system. To go back to the previous setup will confirm or not if there were any. The first thing I've done on the Z afterwards was to check where I was as far a mixture screw setup. I found that some screws are 1 1/2 turn from being close, some others are 2 1/2 turns. None of them is set up the same way. The weber are quite old but they have been rebuilt by a professional 2 years ago. Transistion port are seals with caps which is a shame, it makes the throttle plate adjustment difficult to check but the rebuild job has been done properly, I would assume everything should be fine. I would have also to double check the venturis size as well. I believe they are 36mm but I might have said something wrong. It is hard to read. I do also have spares with 30mm ID. Regarding your offer for jets, that's super nice from you but I'm far away from you now. I went back to Europe (France). I have a wideband available, I believe it would be a helpful tool in my process. We always say we are learning by our mistakes. I can garantee you that I'm learning a lot. Hopefully in less than 10 yrs I'll be wise enough to understand the webers (then I shall be able to turbocharge the car with those ) Josh, I've seen your build (very nice). I would stick with Webers, your engine would not have the same soul without those. Of course, there is money involved, it's your choice but you should think twice

you're right, this looks like rich condition but should I see the rev going higher as soon as I open the choke? I would think the car should "suffocate" and run slower. I'm wondering if it could also be because of the "cold" start. I pressed 2-3 times on the throttle pedal prior to start the car. I'll back off to the previous settings and see how it goes.

I'm not following you regarding the chokes. I can rev the engine quite ok with the choke fully on. According to what I've understood, the throttle are not open because of the choke. The choke seems to only inject gas to richen the mixture when the engine is cold (i.e. to compensate air/fuel condensation) To fully open the choke would tell me that the air/fuel mix is way too lean with my condition. Regarding the idle mixture screw, I believe it is the only one with a spring (very close to the intake manifold) Idle speed screw, it seems to be the same bolt as the one we use to synchronize carbs. Anyway, I haven't messed up with those yet.Until I'm not confident about what to do, I don't do

First of all thanks for the time both of you, you took to answer I've got 2 books that I've read twice. Obviously I'm going to read them again for sure (even without your comments ). I've got "Weber Carburators" from HPBooks as well as the Weber Tuning Manual. For the knock, I've tried to retard the timing and see if it was making a difference. It made a small difference but it did not help as much as expected. I went to a point where retarding the timing again was making the engine running very bad. Your comments regarding how the bolt should be tighten is interesting. I did not overtighten them but for sure I compressed completely the spring washers. I do not understand though how I can have fuel leak if I overtighten the nuts. I have many different idle jets available. 45, 50, 55 F9. I will backup to the 50F9 if you, guys, say 55 is too big. At least to go back to where it was before, when the engine was running ok. How can the idle drop that much between before and after knowing that I've just changed the idle jets and tightened the nuts? I don't think the idle jet should create such a difference, especially since those are supposed to help fuel flow through the transistion holes (=no effect at idle?). Regarding how the nuts are tightened, if there were no leak before, since I've clamped the carbs "better", we should see no difference. I take good notes of your comment regarding venturi but I will focus first on having the car running smoothly prior to mess up with HP. The problem is still maybe besides the engine. I've tried to spot exhaust leak with no luck (with a fuel hose "plugged" in my ear to spot air flow around connections) One more point, I've changed the air filters. I went from a ITG foam box to 3 K&N but this should not change anything. It would be better then to say that "there is a rattling noise under the hood." The head has been reworked a little as well but I don't know exactly what (polished, valve job?) Last point, regarding gas, I'm using 93 octane fuel

Hello guys My car was ticking for a while now (but I don't drive it often and strong because of that) when I was accelerating from 2k rpm. After some attempt to fix that I've tried to check any reason why it is happening (exhaust leak, air horns vibrating, etc.) I ended up this weekend playing with the idle jets. Until I noticed the carbs were not tight at all on the intake manifold. I was able to turn every bolt by 5 turns before to tighten them. In the process I've changed the idle jet since I did believe my problem was coming from the transition circuit (running lean). I went from 50F9 to 55F9. btw the setup of the car is as followed: 240z with L28 F54 block, N42 head, flat pistons, mild Scheider cam from MSA, 3 40DCOE, 3-2-1 turbo headers. Regarding the DCOE's, I have Mains 130 Air correction 180 Emulsion tube F11 Idle jet 50F9 before, now 55F9 Venturi 36mm I haven't check yet accelerator pump jet and secondary venturi. Besides the transition, the car runs strong after 3000-3500 rpm as long as you are gentle with the trottle before. The car is shaking like crazy after 6000 rpm, I don't know why yet (so I don't go that far). The problem as of today is that the idle is very chaotic now. it runs at 300-400 rpm; the car stinks, shakes. I need to have the choke fully open to let the car idle at 1000 rpm. Could this be because of the change of the idle jets???? I assume no, I believe it is because of the air leaks that might exist with the carbs not tighten. Since the car was running approximately ok before, I assume the previous owner tuned the car accordingly. I think the synchro between carbs are all messed up as well since they were synch with erratic leaks. Please advice I am currently reading a lot of stuffs about Webers, I will try next weekend to resync the carbs and to adjust the idle from scratch. I'm also afraid I will have to review the rest of the setup afterwards, I might be running very rich since there is no more extra supply of air with air leaks removed.

I keep it simple: Rota RB 15x7 ET04 with 225/50-15 Before I had Icon 17x7 ET42 with spacers and 215/45-17. The car ride is so much smoother now

For your info, in France the deal for the weatherstrip is to buy some straight joint which doesn't need glue anymore. You just clamp them around the door opening. This is not a kit dedicated for the Z, just some rubber joint at the correct spec. See the link below. It's in French but you can get the idea. http://www.comptoir-carrosserie.fr/profil-de-porte-a-armature-metallique-723/product_info.php/products_id/834 It cost 5,60€ per meter. you need 8m to do the 2 doors apparently. Clean, cheap and it seems to work quite well

I've just installed MSA (thezstore) seat belts on my 72 240z with no problem. If you are not racing your car, the retractable ones are probably the best choice. I like 4/5 point harnesses but not to be able to move in your daily (or weekend) car is a pain. I still need some "confort", but you're right, safety first.

The colision shop is late my car won't be ready before Wednesday. They have a very hard time to reassemble everything, "It's a 35yrs old car, it's not that easy"... If they don't fix it for Wednesday, I'm going to miss the boat to Europe which is next week. The car would have to spend one full month outside on a parking lot to wait for the next carrier one month later... This car has not seen rain for 15 years, it really s*cks... So many problem because of a douchbag... Thanks again guys for your support PS: I've just received new wheels (rota RB 15x7), I can't even see if they fit well.

I'm in the process of changing my 17"x7 wheels with 15"x7 on my 240z. I'm still debating for tire size. Everybody on the board advices to use 225/50-15 which is smaller than stock wheel diameter (195/70-14). Why don't people choose 225/55-15 instead which would match stock diameter? Can you help me? Is it because of look? Performance (less side wall)? Because actually 225/50-15 is stock diameter? (I've seen 240z with 175/70-14 which is the same diameter as 225/50-15)

Too bad but thanks for the potential help

Could you use some AMSoil for instance in a T-5? In my Mitsu Evo, I'm using AMSoil 75w-90 GL-4. It's working pretty well, I've got no complain about it so far. The GL-4 or GL-5 classification is important since one can be bad for your bearing or other seals. Still in my Evo, both fluids are 75w-90 but: Trans => GL-4 Transfer Case => GL-5

Regarding my paint, I think it looks very nice but it was not done the way it should have on my car anyway. The prep work was not done right, the paint is peeling near the hinges on doors. Fortunately for me, it's inside so nobody can see it. When I tightened some bolts for the front strut, the paint has cracked. As a result, there's no more paint along the strut bolts. The paint looks pretty thick and very brittle. I was going to redo the paint within 3-4 years...

Thanks for your comments, this is good info I've checked the quote, they are going to remove all the parts and trims from the damaged panels. I guess they are doing it the right way then. I do trust this shop which was recommended by a friend who used to work for collision shop. Time will tell if hewas right I guess the good point is this is giving work to do to people in Detroit

There's nothing I can do besides fixing it. The insurance is very cool, the collision shop is supposed to be one of the best in the Detroit area. For your info, I was at a restaurant having diner, the car was 20 yds away in the downtown (with people walking everywhere). Like you all, I wish I could have seen the ****** who did that. I would have been in trouble by now for what I would have been able to do to him. The smart thing would have been to follow the guy, call the police, track him down and let the police do its job. What pisses me off today is that this guy is still walking around with the feeling that he messed up without being punished. He will do it AGAIN on other cars and probably laugh

This is my first classic car. In Michigan they are hard to find in this shape. I was looking for the one for 3.5 years before to purchase it. I own it for 8 months now, I haven't found yet a weak spot with rust. So I'm exactly in the same situation than you with your Mustang. The tokens regarding the shape of the car have to be for the previous owner but I'm still working on fixing little stuffs we don't see (but that we can feel like brakes, shifter, tach or smell like the gas hoses). I'm also going to make sure it remains that good It's definitely some haters who wanted to destroy something nice. Regarding my wheels, I was going to get rid of them but nobody wants them so I'll keep them (I'm going to get a smaller set of rims => 15") http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131092 If you're interested => MP and make an offer

I've made 40,000 miles with the stock one (which is good). The T-case has failed after 30,000 miles which was bad

I come back from the collision shop. They need 2 weeks to fix it. It's going to cost $1400 to the insurance. Since the paint is gone, wet sand and clear coat are not enough. Some paint is required. The next 2 weeks will be long The good: I met my first s30 this year, a 240 with a driver who waved at me and give me a thumb up (He could not see the scrach from that far )

Thanks again guys I'm going to see the cops right now. There are cameras everywhere where this happened. Maybe the idiot has been caught on tape. I'll let you know The insurance is covering the damage, deductibles are $100, I guess it's not that bad