Lazeum

Good luck with the tune, bring us back some feedback Since my last post, I haven't done too much to my car (home improvement project on going taking precedence ) I've just spotted a Weber carbs retailler with jets available 3 miles away from home I have to visit them! Otherwise, I've ordered a new head to Braap (P79) with port/polish/unshrouding work + a new rebello cam. I might be soon the time to maximize ventiru/choke size and especially to get timing the way it should! I'm wondering also if the lean spot at 4.5k rpm is not the results of acoustic resonance into our intake (Helmholtz principle?) To check that we might have to decrease or increase length on the runners, not sure I want to proceed in this direction...

I'm using my wideband sensor box for this. I have an Innovate Motorsports LM2. It's a great tool.... expensive thou if you expect to use it only for OBD capabilities

As long as those breather can take out any oil excess, you're fine IMO. I don't recall having seen any interference with anything nearby the breather once installed. Regarding yokes, I was told only 280z yokes works from the swap (except the one from 75) And no you cannot keep R180 yoke since they don't have the same number of teeth on the splines connection (24 vs. 29 if I'm not mistaken). Regarding covers, There're 2 different kind of covers: the bald ones and the ones with splines to help cooling. As long as your 2 covers have the same bolt pattern for mustache bar at the same location, it should be ok. For oil, I would go with Redline 75w90 GL5, you can also check Royal Purple or Amsoil oil with same grade 75w90 GL5. I've done it with mine, moved from R180 3.36 to R200 3.9 I was a very nice improvement

Based on what we can all see with your car and your posts on the board, you seriously deserve such a job! Congratulations!

I do currently have F54, Flat top and N42 (same as N47 regarding Compression chamber), with stock cams and stock ignition settings you will detonate. the way to avoid that is to lower timing (with MSA stage II, I've got total timing setup at 28-29°). Doable for a short period of time under certain circumstances (can the stock distributor handle decent timing at idle and total timing at the same time...?) Obviously premium gas would also be mandatory.

:lol: your comments crack me up! I like salt as well. I like also chocolate, coke, candies, coffee, beers... Unfortunately I'm not bored enough to sue everydoby. I wish I was dreaming about aspargus or cabbage when I'm hungry... I could sue them also anyway, they are using too much pesticide which turns me out of vegetables... I eat chocolate instead and become big

I did not say it was not some BS stuff. I'm well aware about that and I believe it is stupid to sue Denny' for that. What I say is it is not the first time salt is an issue. What they say is some product have more salt than required to create some new needs.

There're some studies made about salt a little bit everywhere. Companies are suspected to add salt/sodium to their food to oblige people to drink on the side. In other word, big companies might destroy health of people in order to make more profit with other side products (who is thinking about Coca Cola???) So this law suit does not surprise me.

I'm into reviewing the decoration of the flat I've purchased lately. I thought it would be piece of cake to do... after many days with 4 of my friends, we are still not done clearning up walls, ceiling,... It takes so much time (and dust) to make it nice. I have to redo the whole bathroom... I can't imagine how much time it would take. Of coure, it takes precedance over the Z, so no Z fun for me this summer

Money won't come back... Jobs neither. My dad lost his job in the story ... and his boss. 150, 30, 10 years won't really change anything. He's going to remain in prison for life anyway... What about the money? are we sure it is all gone? that's my concern!

I'm wondering if there isn't any galvanization between alu and steel overtime as well...

That's good news!!!! Can't wait to have mine now!

One other tip if you did not do it. Don't be shy with grease! When I did mine, grease was everywhere, I've used nitrile gloves (5 pairs maybe for the 2 halfshafts)

You just need to try harder/longer. There's no other tip so far, you'll need patience, try to push quickly to slide everything in. As soon as the washer in under the groove, you just have to snap the o-ring back in.

When I've done mine, I put a lot of grease to hold balls in the grooves. The trick for me was to use the flat washer to push on the 4 rows of balls at the same time when pressing the shaft back into the housing. With gentle up and down motion, I've been able to slide everything back in. Hope that helps Oooh and you'll need some patience too!!!

Have you checked other items such as timing or heat range of the plugs? I had some detonation issues I get rid of them by reducing the advance. I've always thought I was running lean with my carbs but that was not true. I'm running 28-29° TOTAL advance. Which is not that much compare to similar setups I could campare mine with (usually people are at 34-36° total adv.). My setup is L28, flat top, N42, 3 x Weber, 274° cam, MSD ignition To go back to your original question, E85 should help but that would not solve the issue in my opinion. You should be able to run with 93 if your CR is around 10-11 (higher would be another story....) I've always heard E85 is kind of corrosive for aluminum. However, most of current cars have aluminum parts (intake, Throttle Body, etc...) You should also check the fuel pump and the fuel lines to see if this would not be something to check also.

Other ones were not as stupid... usual trial and error process with no consequences! I'm by no mean perfect, just veeeery slow It takes time to think! (sometimes I should not....)

Thanks for your comments It is really the first real "mistake" I've done to my car. However, I don't take any critics bad. I'm here to share. If this thread can avoid people to repeat this mistake, it is all good! Are you refering to your toe??? (hope you're doing well about it...)

My concern was that 95% of the tank is still protected with good resin... Regarding my stupid solution, Alfa Romeo club was sharing this "tip". "If some has some success with this cheap solution why not giving it a try", this was my thought at that time...

I did follow this thread to help closing the doors nicely. It helps a bit but my definitive fix was to replace the weatherstripping with some modern ones I pulled from a donor car from a junkyard. I looked for something either straight or with one 90° bend. They usually are bigger unloaded and smaller when clamped due to their hollow profile. Left one is stock, right one is modern stuff (moreover it clamps instead of being glued) It works now like a charm

I'm kind of bias on this debate: easy or not. I've done it couple months ago now. Whereas there are a lot of topics on the net, it was still something not obvious at first... After having it done once, I think it is easy but this was not my thought when I was still in process. Streeteg, you should start dissassembling your car if you can afford to have it sit for some days, you'll figure by yourself. Something which is not on the list is 2 nuts that bolt up to the diff studs (the 2 that go thru the mustache bar). Regarding the shortening of the half shaft, I would disagree. It is not so easy. shaft is hard as hell with intermitent shape that breaks apart carbide cutting tools. I'm working for the car industry with nice machine shops but not all of them have the tools to do it right or the time to take care of individuals (I'm not in the US, transmission/machine shop are difficult to find also) How I've done it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145643 Easiest solution in my book as long as you have a minimum of tool and skills: http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/construction%20page-23.html When I did mine, I figured out my yoke (that connect the propeller shaft to the diff) was not right. Check and double check, take your time to do it right once.

With some feedback, for sure it was a stupid move I'll make sure I'll do a clean job next time to do it right the first... i mean second time

As dumb as it could sound this was something peeple have done in the past on several cars... FOR SURE, I will not advice this method anymore, what a mess!!! I guess we learn from our mistake... lesson learned then! I will follow your advice regarding cleaniness of the tank Thanks for the advice.

The story: I had some issue with the gas tank. It has been restored by a radiator shop 4 years ago. The interior has been derusted, coated with resin. From the day I've owned the car, return and fuel supply lines were worn and were leaking (nozzles were rotating around). I've soldered the nozzles with silver, it is holding up fine now. However resin inside the tank has burnt out leaving metal out of rust protection. So Ive decided to be cheap (I know I should not) and seal the tank with garage floor paint supposed to be gas resistant. Paint is actually chipping inside the tank now. Result is that I clog the fuel filter I've installed (in addition to the one under the hood + the ones inside my carbs) each time I drive the car. I've tried to drain the tank to get rid of all the crap inside the tank; it did not change anything... Every time the car moves gas is moving inside the tank and tears down any paint remaining. Can I apply a new layer of resin (such as the one POR15 supplies) on top of the old one without removing the first layer? I'm going to try to remove the remaining paint inside the tank but this is not an easy task since it is difficult to access it. Should I try to put a chain inside the tank and shake it to try to remove whatever I could? What would you recommend?