Lazeum

Some had luck with Integra Weatherstrip out of junkyards You should give a try!

If missfiring happens when trottle is opened, I would believe issue is not coming from carb sync (it does not mean sync is ok though) I would check timing as suggested by sorealsosurreal, distributor might have moved. I would also agree you might have an air leak somewhere. I believe you would also experience idle issue if leak is big enough to create missfire at high rpm. A fuel line sticked to your ear you help you to spot the leak. Have you checked fuel pressure, it could also be a bad fuel pump or a bad regulator if you have one. Do you notice any smell or smoke? Any detonation noise or loss of power?

It's funny, she was a French TV show yesterday... I'm not so impressed thou.... she fell twice. j/k

I did the same: I went to the junkyard, found a car in good shape (Renault Twingo fyi, I'm in France), picked up the weatherstrip I clamped instead of glueing. Work very well, doors are super easy to close now! I had MSA weatherstrip, it went to the garbage, way to thick for my application (72 240z)

I feel kind of odd, I'm the only one not too post a pic of my engine now

I do also have the problem I've got 4x4 toyota non vented disk brakes in the front, stock rebuild drums on the back, 280zx MC, SS brake lines and 280z booster. The feeling is not good but I've got the car like this when I bough it. I've always assumed it was the way an old Z should feel. I fixed the booster valve that was stuck; this improved the feeling a bit but it is still not good. It is mushy but I can lock the wheels if required. I'll start by checking if calipers are not reversed as discussed in this topic (I did not notice anything wrong when I checked them last time - but I was not looking for anything specific)

I would check on Classiczcars photos collection. There're tons of L engines pictures from many Z shows

You've got a point IMO maybe a AWD for all year around rather than a RWD for NJ.

You need to try some... They will all feel different in your list. I had an Evo 8 as a DD, it was a blast everyday. She was lightly modded (285whp: TBE, MBC, Fuel pump, BOV and a good custom tune). The best thing about this car was the way it handles, grip and steering feeling on curvy roads were a blast. Boost also become my addition 22psi everyday! There's also a very nice Evo community that makes the car even more enjoyable... and if you don't like the look with the wings, you can always remove it easily. I also had the opportunity to have a M3 e46 for few days. Car is great but handling is "softer" than the Evo. Steering feel was not as good. Probably better for a DD for most people but not for me. Same with 350z, car was nice but feels heavy and feelings were not so good. Sound and RWD make it fun though. If you're looking for nice handling cars, Rx7 and NSX seem to be nice but I've never tried those. You definitely need to try some to see what you'd like better I would personnaly go with an used Evo IX MR or a new Evo X GSR.

You can be sure about that

I understand your frustration. I'm still new to the game, I guess I'm still going to look for improvement. I've logged a "raced" prep engine and 2x 45DCOE (Alpine A110 1600s) around Xmas, the AFR was flat all over the power band. I have hope thou I can achieve the same results! Anyway, rich spot or not, it does not avoid me to move forward. I may have to leave with it, I'm fine with that; without the wideband, it is hardly noticeable )

Good to hear about you and your trials Weather is not so nice currently in France so the Z is hibernating for some weeks (not months as it was in Michigan!!) I have 165 air jet I can try but first thing will be timing. Since we have the same "problem" with completely different engine (cams, volume, head, etc.) I assume somethingis going on. I'm wondering if the fuel supply cannot be a reason as well. I have a mech fuel pump and a pressure regulator. I'm wondering if the overly rich condition cannot be from bad management of fuel pressure from the pump & regulator. I'll give a try with my other pump (elec) and see how it goes. So far, I just check weather forecast everyday I wish weather was better!

Timing could be a reason. My distributor once moved and make the car very unstable with explosion at the exhaust tip (HUGE bang!) so it could be. It is worth a try, rotate the dist by several degree clockwise and see what happen (as long as you stay at low rev it would be ok), you'll need to check timing with light afterwards if you want to avoid detonation. also, are you sure you've got sparks? Then, maybe a compression check could let you know if it could be the engine itself. I'm nowhere an expert but this is what I would do.

Sure you are right. Internet exagerate things, it is also difficult to express our feelings online; I'm no so worried neither , I'll just double check when the opportunity to check would come. The fact the cam's OP has been bad only on one lobe make me wondering like many if oil is the only culprit. Looking at the rocker surface on the picture, it looks like porosity that can affect a lot the microscopic hardness of the retainer. This could also lead to severe wear.

This post worries me (like many others, as I can see) I do have Scheinder cam in my L28. It needs an oil change I'm planning to do as soon as weather get warmer. What I don't understand is why this issue hasn't grown big until today. Mods on L engine are not new. It seems there's more knowledge on which turbo, cam or piston to use than oil. I find this awkward... To feel better, I'll check the cam in my engine during oil change and check for anything unexpected (better be safe than sorry )

Here is mine with old MI plate. 72 s30. I bough it in Michigan where I used to live, brought it back to France where I live now (4 km from Paris). L28, flat top, Weber, 5spd, lowered, rota wheels... Still some work to do (but shall I be ever done with the car???): R300 3.9, poly Bushings, rear sway bar, some wiring to clean up...

I had MSA weatherstripping when I purchased the car. I had to slam the doors to close them. I was always scared the windows would blow off. Then, I have been to the junkyard looking for some replacement from other cars. I found a car with thinner weatherstrip and no angle. I did not have to use glue neither since modern stuffs just need to be clamped. It looks much cleaner, doors are now really easy to open and to close. I would check sedans with "big" doors (=> Coupés): Cobalt, Neon, PT cruiser, Civic, etc. The one I picked up the rubber from is a French vehicle not sold in the US (like any other French cars): Renault Twingo FYI

If my battery is low, I can still make the starter works but the engine will not start. Have you tried to charge the battery? Another time, my distributor was not tight enough; with heat and other misc. stuffs, timing went out. The car would not start neither. I don't think it could affect the starting process but have you checked the spark plugs gap before to install new ones? Have you resetted the idle speed screw? The shop might have played with them...

I've found the answer to my question here (link posted in the past in this thread )

I had the opportunity to play with the car today I've done many AFR logs: - First with the 135 main I did not do last week - Then with some 140 main I've switched today Car feels best with 140. A lot of gizmos coming from the engine are gone. Not the kind of noise I was woring about but without them, car sounds definitely better. I've overlaid AFR curves for your convenience. you can see the impact of main jet change ONLY on AFR. Pulls are made in 2nd gear @ WOT. Test conditions: 130 Mains: 45ºF, rainy, only me in the car 135 Mains: 35ºF, sunny, only me in the car 140 Mains: 35°F, sunny, Me and my dad (+240lbs) I did not start the log as early with the 140's as I've done it with other jets regarding rpm. We can clearly see the difference between the 130 and the 135. Differences between 135 & 140 are more difficult to spot. The higher rpm at the beginning of the log does not help. Even if car is nice to drive, transition circuit has to be improved. I have to adapt my driving style (I do not floor it at low rpm); idle valve and pump jet are next on my list to do. Light accelerations (30/40% throttle) show lean conditions not shown on those curves. I don't have 145 to try out. So that would be enough regarding main so far. Air jet seem to be ok, I like the fact AFR goes rich at little at red line (should I??? ) I've also checked bowl fuel level. Since I've seen needle jet, I'm confused about how to check fuel level. Should I measure fuel level with ball spring all the way in or just flush regarding the 8.5mm measurement? So far it is at 8mm with floats flush to spring ball. Let me know your thoughts Next step will be timing & needle valve, maybe bowl fuel level. I'll report back when I've got more to show Tomorrow is supposed to be a sunny day (but cold)

Glad you figure it out. Mechanical pump is usually good enough for webers (I'm running L28, webers & mech pump ) Yours was probably defective, the membrane is most likely shot. If it is backfiring, it is most likely your ignition. The explosion in your cylinder does not occur as it should. Try to switch plugs and see if problem is following the plugs. if it is, you would have to buy new ones. If you fouled your plugs in the past, people usually suggest to replace them.

Actually no, it is the same setup. I did not really pay attention when I've done the curve, I've got couple of logs last time I've posted results. It might be a different one than the one I've posted weeks ago. The 2nd Curve looks better (richer at ~3000rpm), that's true. I did not change anything yet regarding needle valve or fuel level. A new air jet is also in my plan, I've got 165 to try vs. the current 180.

I don't think there is any logic behind it. You should change the choke. Especially 34 vs. 38. That's a big difference. All carbs should have the same jets/chokes/etc. For your info, cyl #1 is the one in front of the car. ===================================== For others webers addict, I've done some trials this past weekend. In France, we have ok weather and 65°F I'm also in vacations for 2 weeks. I'll have time after Xmas to play with the car I've first found a way to draw my power curve out of the rpm recorded during my AFR logs. Numbers aren't realistic but the shape is even more. I wish I had 250whp and 400Nm of max torque... Wrong timing, carbs not set up correctly, Torque calculations wrong, I don't know what is the reason yet. Torque drop like crazy after 4000rpm, there's room for improvement. From the shape of the curve I'm also questionning the software. Torque should only be a derivative curve from rpm + aero resistance. Nothing crazy as long as you keep no interest for numbers. Since I'm running on the lean side, I've decided to make the mixture richer prior to do any change on fuel bowl level or timing. Knowing also I'm going from lean to ~12.5, I'm going to make the combustion faster, Timing will have to be ajusted accordingly. If I try first to get optimal timing, richening the mixture might lead to knock since I might have to remove some degree to get timing back to optimal. Since I don't know how much degree I'm talking about. I'll fix roughly AFR first. Only change so far was the main jet, moving from 130 to 135. Car feels already better. I'll get some AFR logs with this setup prior to change anything else (one change at a time, always ) So more to come soon! => On a side note, since I share info with you all, I've learned a lot. I do start my car after a while easily now since I know that I need to fill first the carbs bowl, then spray some into the manifold prior to crank the engine to start. => Much less frustration than before

Search also on the forum, there're plenty of info regarding how to start your engine. Do the checks and report back for some more help. Please, use also punctuation, make some paragraphs. It is difficult to read you.

Hello, welcome on the board How were your plugs? fouled/all black? Did you clean them or change them with new ones? Check also your ignition, see if you have sparks. Then I would check your gas / gas lines / Gas tank & gas filter are OK. Do you have the right gas pressure? If it is in a 77 s30, you might have a electrical fuel pump; you might need a regulator to reduce the fuel pressure. It should be 3-3.5 psi. If you did not start the car for while, your carbs bowls are empty. You'll need to crank the engine couple of time to fill them up (obviously you've done this). Have you try to pump the throttle pedal to bring some fresh gas thru the accel. pump prior to start the engine? After those basic checks, I would review the ignition; the distributor might have slipped. Your timing might be off of the "ok" range. If you'd give more info about your car, it might help people to spot your issue. You did not give enough