Lazeum

It is actually bouncy during start or very light trottle/very low speed (springs on friction disk too soft?) but it is holding up fine in 5th gear at WOT on highways. Quite frankly, I expect the clutch to be the next thing to fail on my setup (I better start saving $$$ !) I'll probably go for Fidanza flywheel + ACT clutch. I had good luck with such combo on my Evo in the past.

So far so good I've only done around 1000mi since rebuild.

Very nice job!

It's funny because this is exactly what I think also now while I drive the car: "hopefully the 225mm clutch will hold up" It was in good shape (= almost new) so I kept it but not sure how long it will last...

Actually, it is not really an o'ring. I'm talking about the seal behind the clutch to avoid transmission fluid to leak towards clutch mechanism.

I was living in Birmingham, MI. It took me 4 years to find a good one locally. If I would have to do it again, I would look for as rust free as possible example in CA or AZ and get a shipping company bring it to MI for me. I'm sure if you ask nicely enough, some members could help you to inspect some cars for you if they don't belong already to somebody you could trust on the board. FYI, the car came back with me to France when I decided to move back to Europe, cost for transportation from Detroit to Baltimore was around $500.

My build was not so smooth but the outcome is great. I cannot be happier so far My machinist screwed up stuffs but every dimension they machined is spot on. At the end, engine is perfect. Regarding head, you should have some clearance below the head. Some valve will extend below head surface. 2 pieces of wood should do the trick to lift the head up on your work bench. You need roughly need 1in, so some 4"x4" should be good. As long as material you choose is less hard than head material, you're good. Regarding oil pan, make sure bolt holes are not curved. Gasket surface on mine was not flat at all (bolts have been overtightened), so it is the right time to make it flat again. I'm lacking technical vocabulary here but I've reproduced what body shops do to remove dings with one steel piece on the back of the pan & one hammer to flatten things out. Priming is important but flushing the system after the first start was an absolute need on my side. I've been using paper towels to clean the engine each time it was necessary (as many books are telling it). When I disassembled oil pan to control everything, oil pick up was partially clogged with very little pieces of paper tower (invisible while being oil wet against block during assembly), despite being super careful, there was a lot of metal chips also on the bottom of the pan. After first oil change (oil was used only to run the engine until it became hot - after 5-10 minutes run), I've checked oil pan, no more debris has been found - so it was only because of rebuild. Last lesson learned from my build, I did not check transmission o'ring while engine was away and it leaked after reinstallation such a pain to do now while it should have been a piece of cake...

Remember me the time I did mine it took me around 60-80hrs to make the engine right (including removing pistons from fully assembled engine because pistons to head clearance was not good to me). Regarding priming, I just filled the pump with oil prior to install it. Lube every contact during assembly. Before firing up the engine for the first time, I've run it without spark plugs until I see oil coming out of cam lobes by looking from oil cap hole. By doing so, engine is running at 60 rpm (slowly) for 10-15s, I don't think it should hurt anything (despites debate we've got on the board ).

For proper timing, you need something you can tune, you need something to control engine knock and you need something to measure torque/power output (dyno is best, of course). Stock dizzy can be recurved but you need to know proper values, not so easy. Aftermarket dizzy can be a solution (such as Mallory Unilite) but it is not easy to tune. Then come full electronic timing control, Megasquirt does it well (+ fuel management) or Megajolt can do it also. Regarding your budget, you really need to make a list & don't forget anything. Cost goes up quite fast. For instance, my Megajolt install was supposed to be cheap ($171 ECU, $100 edis, some sensors, brackets and wires). I ended up with a $900 project total...

Like everyone else, I think L28 is the best choice for you. Regarding carbs, you will need to understand them & be able to tune them. I've got DCOE, once tuned, you do not have to touch them. You need however to start with perfect condition parts. Worn out carbs with gasket on the way will give you a lot of troubles. Mine are old carbs but they went thru full restoration process (Pierce Manifold did it for $600 - not cheap) Triple carbs are good for performance but they also sound amazing, it makes your car feels faster. Every tunnel is an invitation to push the throttle to make noise Power with an engine means good head with proper flow, combustion chamber & cam with supporting valvetrain parts. It also means good ignition with proper timing. Difference between "just ok" timing and spot on timing is night & day difference.

You should contact MSA to get their feedback first. They would tell you if it is normal or not. They are usually very easy to deal with (at least with me, being on the other side of the ocean )

I found some watertight fuse holders for trucks that would hold 30 Amp and more fuse that should do the trick. So I would look for trucks hardware for the fusible link alternative.

Here's a picture of the first DAT (way before DAT-sun brand came up) in 1914, the GO

You need to set your goals. It means first that you need to know what the L engine could achieve. You need to think about how much power you would need and how it should be delivered. A good NA Setup at reasonable cost should give you 170/200whp

For bolts, you need to know their size. They are all metric bolts. Engine bolts have regular pitch whereas most suspension bolts have fine thread pitch. I've replaced every bolt I could on my car. I've started a thread with bolts for suspension. For engine bolts, a caliper will help you a lot. Since bolts are regular size & don't required high grade (grade 8 is way enough), they're easy to source. N42 or F54 are both 2,8L block. Both should be fine. Some say N42 is stronger for stroker, F54 has better cooling efficiency for turbo. I believe both should be ok. Regarding head, look for info on the forum, it has been discussed a million times. Head with N47 pn# could have 2 designs: open chamber or closed chamber (we call it MN47). As far as I'm concerned, I'd choose P90/P79 head to build a L28 because of quench efficiency to could get with those. MN47 is also having quench but comp ratio is high with this head. There's a software called "lengine.exe" that could help you with engine build. To make power with NA setup, you need a good head with appropriate work done to it ($$$) with matching cam specs. If you keep the stock injection system, it will also limit you in power since you won't be able to adjust air/fuel accordingly.

Somebody told me to lean my body on the side of the car in case of front collision to let the engine going between me and the passenger The Z isn't very stiff either if it rolls. A roll bar could be a nice addition to protect people inside. It happenned to someone in France: First 10 mi with the car after full restoration, some oil in a curve on pavement, the car ended up on the roof. Roll bar saved the people inside. If you think about daily driving the car & safety, my advice is you might try to get a more modern car.

Renault/Nissan has just released the news about the Datsun brand revival with the GO. Car is made for Indian market mainly, maybe Russia later. Car is made to be cheap (around $5000-$6000). the GO is based on Nissan Micra platform front wheel drive 1.2L 4 cylinders gasoline engine 5 spd manual gearbox

That's a safe decision. Having experienced engine failure on the road, you're also buying some peace of mind while you would be driving your car in the future. It does make a difference. good luck!

I once found salaries from every employees in the company + rewards letters. It got me upset: rewards for managers that did nothing but being on top of somebody who did the job (without any reward on his side), super high salary on people who were clueless, etc. I just realized I was far away from being paid as I should compared to some other people. It's probably better to ignore those kind of info... I was also part of union to represent people in front of management. I had access to payroll of the entire company (without knowing who earn what, it was only sorted per level). When my boss told me I was well paid, it was easy to tell him to stop telling **** in front of me since I knew what was behind...

Rockers are soft metal. You can grind them with a small cylindrical stone on Dremel type tool. If you can reproduce or use the method you've used with your machinist to check them, you'll be fine. If you're not perfectly even, it should be ok. They will wear out and become even over time. With mine, I can see the wear making the rocker tip to match lash pad area. Drawback is you have to carefully track valve clearance since it could change a lot in a very short time. I've done it every 100mi. for the first 500mi. Now it does not change, I can drive without any second thought! Mine are now very shinny, almost polished with lash pad contact pattern perfectly centered.

I would be tempted to grind the side of the rockers to bring the contact pad in the center. However, I'm not an expert, I would get comments from others prior to do anything. Maybe contact patch is uneven for another reason, you need to understand what could have happened. Some reasons could be: - Valves not perpendicular to rockers/cam (how? valve seats damaged? but I believe head is freshly rebuilt - Valve seat not straight? could machining, if any, have been done wrong) - Rockers already reground with cam pad not parallel to rocker tip area? - Cam lobes not straight? (could that be possible??!?) - lash pads not flat? Besides rockers being reground I don't believe other reasons could be realistic but who knows...

With my cam reground, primitive cam diameter is smaller than stock. I just have to get lifters as low as possible to provide enough clearance to remove first lash pad with a magnet pen & then rockers. You need to make sure of course rockers are having clearance against cam (=valve close) If you do not have enough clearance a big screw driver to make a lever between valve and cam shaft could help. I believe I've seen some drawings about it in service manual...

For your information, everything still goes well on my side. I've made around 600mi - no problem to report. First check after roughtly 100mi: I had to adjust valce clearance. It had move a little bit (0.015mm at lash pad) . Very consistent wear accross every rocker. Since rocker surface had to be broken in again, it was expected. Last check to control lash pad clearance showed no change or wear. I did not have to adjust anything.

Don't look for Datsun bearing but for part numbers. I bought some for like $20 each instead of usual $80 Refs are RW116 & RW117 (sometimes GRW116 & GRW117, see Blue Z pages) In my 5 seconds search I end with the following links RW116 on Amazon RW116 on Amazon #2 RW117 on Amazon RW117 on Amazon #2 Very few suppliers are still making those. As a result, you might not get what you expect from a brand perspective. I wanted Timken bearings, I ended with NTN & SKF bearings in Timken boxes. Good luck!

It would definitely help me! Thanks for the time & file you share