sileightygx

i dont know everything about webers, but ive been researching as well since ive gotten the same carbs. if they are used i recommend you replace all the gaskets and seals off the bat. its better to do it now while its off the car, and at least when you have them installed and tuned you wont have to fiddle with them for a long while. just my .02 cents! congrats on the purchase!

i second too that you should take a look at the AFM for starters. nothing changed recently right before it started surging?

in dec '09 i finally found (had money to spend and space) my '71 240z. since then i have grinded away rust on the floors, applied some por15, started welding up replacement pieces for the holes in the floor, and managed to find time to install weber dcoe 40s, msd 6al, and 280zx n/a dizzy. my friend took a short vid of the webers today with his phone. i'll post more pics of the project, but for now i have the youtube vid he posted. stay tuned haha

thats a perfect answer for you! haha update your location too as its helpful for answering some questions and for sale posts

makes perfect sense! im just gathering parts at the moment since im going to replace pretty much everything. i'll report back if there is any trouble, but i highly doubt there will be.

thanks, but i already knew what part numbers are for what year. i was asking about changing over to the newer style slave/fork to get rid of the annoying adjustment on the stock slave cylinder. just wondering if anyone has done this, and had an easier time just adjusting the master cyl like any newer manual car. i show the part number for the master cylinder being the same for like 70-83 Zs, so im assuming if i change to the 73+ slave + fork there will still be enough adjustability by only adjusting the master cylinder.

can they be interchanged? i tried searching since i thought this would have been something asked before..but i couldn't find any info. i have a 71 with the original adj pushrod slave cylinder, if i switch out to a 73+ slave cylinder, will the master cylinder still have enough adjustment for proper pedal height/play? i believe if i switch to the newer slave then i would need to switch out the clutch fork for a newer one as well..

thank you very much kiwi! i'll pull my manifold off and compare with his, have to change gasket anyways so would be interesting to compare the two.

oh i had meant about intake manifolds being interchangeable between L20/24/26/28?

no cool answer for me tony if the intake manifolds are similar?

in order to run the 370Z brake setup, you would need a 19inch wheel to clear the diameter of the rotors/calipers if im not mistaken. not to mention custom brackets for the calipers, probably better off with the suggestions listed above.

i love that part! you can also put the car in neutral and use a socket wrench to turn the crank and see if it turns over freely with the plugs out.

japanese S30s had an L20(a?) that was a straight six, my friend has an L20 triple manifold laying around and i wasn't sure if it would fit on a L24

Hey guys, Just wondering if a weber triple carb manifold will fit on all of the L series engines? Or is L20(L6) versus 24/26/28 that much different? Ive searched around and seen info regarding the engines we have here in the states, but not the L20. Thanks!

Just to shed a little light on registering a salvage vehicle in CA...I know you are in OR, but CA is pretty strict. I recently did so last year on a lexus as the car was in an accident, but I got it so cheap that it was worth to fix it. After the body work was done, i started the DMV paperwork in CA. They had me do three things... 1) VIN verification by DMV/CHP 2)Inspection by licensed inspection shop (ie: took it to local 76 gas station) 3)pay fees and done The inspection that was done was only to check for obvious frame damage, headlight/running lights/brake lights, and brake pads. Pretty sad inspection..and VERY easy to pass. Of course the car must be running to have the inspection done. I did not have to show any kind of paperwork on body work/repairs done, as it was mostly done by my friend and myself..

VERY nice setup! Please keep us updated as you do the tune on the "mule" haha, interested to see how long she lasts at 400rwhp.

it is even mentioned that they should not be constructed out of ERW for satefy reasons. why gamble with your life? if you are gonna get a cage, get one that will stand up to the worst case scenario you could possibly have. its just money anyways, your life is worth it. just my two cents..

have you tried just removing the door liner on the inside and moving the door latch hinge by itself?

i was ready to look at a picture with something seriously mangled. that is definitely fixable! if you dont have the tools or experience, a body shop can repair that for not too much.

my friend you are doing a good job removing that horrible kit!! you will definitely learn a lot repairing the car, and probably some good father/son time haha. congrats on the purchase! an awesome first car, just be sure you get a tetanus shot! lol

LOL yeah man you have to get it on some jack stands or a lift to check it out. no way of telling without pictures of the underside and exterior. what was it sitting there for 8 years for? were they in the middle of fiddling with the suspension and then stopped?

congrats on the Z and welcome to the forum. should be a fun project! planning on swapping the 4spd for a 5 or just going to leave it?

http://www.aspecproducts.com/ a-spec is also in southern California. my friend has wholesale account with them, so i know the prices are pretty competitive. good luck!

any pics of the repair job you did around the battery tray? curious to see how you did it fromt he explanation given. in all VERY awesome setup, and i wish i had some sexy triples as well!

if you are looking for things to buy you can browse through the "Parts for sale" section,or can post a WTB in the "Parts wanted" section of the forum. if new shocks there are so many places to look, MSA, Blackdragon, ebay, etc etc.