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Skimping on brakes is like getting dressed up but not tying your shoe laces. That said,

We all know wood is the best structural repair for water damage areas... Owen is right, it just begs the question how much more of that am I going to find? I'm sure there's plenty more patchwork, rust is never localized. You'd have to strip the entire chassis to know what you're really dealing with

The moderator are pretty dang good at coming up with those member captions. Ali, do you happen to have the 350z differential on hand? Take a quick look at it, then crawl under the 240z and take an even quicker look at that one. Also, brake upgrades and drivetrain upgrades are two completely different things. You certainly can upgrade the brakes and use your stock diff. Just not with with 350z ones. Well saying you can't is perhaps a strong way of putting it, but like say, alchemy, it wouldn't be the greatest idea ever to try. Either way, for all intents and purposes your question has been answered.

If by no modification, you mean extensive modification, then yes.

You said it isn't backfiring at all? Backfiring goes hand in hand with an excessively rich mixture though doesn't it? Which also goes with the smell of unspent fuel. That is quite the paradox... Brand new or not, the plugs could have fouled right after the first run from bad gas etc. I think the key here is that it was running fine at the start. If the pump was crap or something like that, you wouldn't have had any good luck at all. You just have to figure out what was totally fine until a touch and go could have spoiled it. Bad timing will also result in a serious loss of power, which I'm still not sure you have ? Seems like vacuum leak and low fuel pressure are at the top of the list. In my experience injectors are pretty sensitive--if they are not spoon fed they can make the engine miserable. Whether they are really clogged or not, an irregular spray can even cause a rough run, I've had injectors come straight from overhaul that didn't spray consistently enough to make it purr. Also I don't think anyone has mentioned o2 sensors if you got em. Does it run worse cold or after it's thoroughly warmed up?

Also is there a serious loss of power? Perhaps it smells like unspent fuel not because it's running very rich but rather incomplete burn. The wrong type of plugs, or in your case fouled plugs, or clogged injectors will do that easily, but you'd probably notice a power loss besides just running rough. Clean the plugs and test the injectors in a cup if you can.

Anything fine enough to get through the filter wouldn't clog the injectors methinks. Unless the line itself had crud in it already past the filter. And if the injectors were clogged they probably wouldn't run rich unless they were just leaking. If you can't find anything wrong with the fuel then perhaps investigate the numerator. Induction leak? Anything that might throw off a maf reading if you have one.

Unfortunately not, which is why there is an entire wall of filters at the auto parts store. For example, two common pitches are 16 SAE and 1.5 Metric, which are close enough to each other that if the wrong one were tried, it could be screwed on with little effort but damage the threads by squeezing them together or pulling them apart slightly.

Verify the p/n on the new filters (not the boxes they came in)? Perhaps the old filter was slightly off and it forced the threads when it was first installed?

Whatever you do, do NOT set the meter to amperage in series, unless it's just a harbor freight meter; in that case by all means. I like the diode suggestion. My first thought is something to do with the alternator, because simple draw will not just kill a battery unless we're talking a massive short that would probably cause it to explode, batteries are supposed to be able to go dead and recharge right back up (unless it sat dead for a long period of time). I can't imagine it's hooked up backwards and the car is still starting either but I can't say I've ever tried that... If there's a short the battery will get really hot just sitting there and if the alternator is the assassin it will get really hot while the engine is running. Otherwise it's a combination of drawing till dead and sitting dead for too long. If you aren't driving it for a while disconnect it and even hook it up to a tender. A completely dead battery can reverse polarity and trigger a charger to say it's connected improperly, and if it's been dead long enough to corrode internally then it will just read open. It doesn't take much to discharge a battery over the course of weeks. Stereos, alarm systems, etc. draw small amounts 24/7.

Yes I'm sure it's a hat/camber plate combo installed on the threaded end of the strut. You can most likely strip it to the bare bones and make it work with regular hats and using the regular bearing.

Are your struts just threaded rods like the oem or are do the have a swivel ball at the end? If they're like the oem, then you shouldn't need a special hat, it's just a seat for the spring with a hole that the rod goes through. Again, basically the same as oem, just a different diameter for the new springs. You shouldn't have to custom make the hats, there are tons of them out there, with or without the oem isolator, it's a pretty generic part.

The stock hats will only work with springs of the oem diameter. Whether or not they need to be pillowball type hats depends on the strut

yup

I love how they always try to make it sound like the car is too old and that's why there's no title, like it came out before titles were invented. It could have just been abandoned, but I think the law is that you have to try and contact the owner and they have a certain period of time to claim it before it becomes yours. If he was in fact the rightful owner, why not just get a duplicate from the dmv?

OOH I see. I could be wrong but I didn't think that any Zs came with a non-E. If it's a later model however (ZX), it would be more valuable because of the flat top pistons as opposed to dished (unless you want the T). Either way fuel injection is almost always a plus unless you're one of those "purists."

These cars are by no means collectors so I doubt anyone would care for #s matching when you sell it. I don't think I've ever seen anyone mention whether or not it was when trying to sell one either.

I just assumed the answer to be "carefully"

Some strange form of interior decorating or is this a lighthearted suicide video?

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99159-restructuring-forum/

Wow. Very, 90s? G-nose headlight buckets could work, but I don't know I kinda like the dissonance in a strange way.

When you buy the s30, you don't do it for the convenience, the comfort, or the safety. You do it because you'll be the baddest dude in revere.

I don't remember the turbo models having that sort of shrubbery... but then again what fiend would put a turbo valve cover on an n/a? That's like getting a bottle that says NOS on... ok bad example.

I agree with the cat, he's onto something.