getoffmyinternet

That doesn't sound anything like my perception of what a man would do.

I think we should remove God from our money and pledge of allegiance, it's downright blasphemy. In money we trust, regardless of how often it lets us down.

Oh if only the old testament covenant was still in effect.

If there's room in the your wheel wells they will.

So that subwoofer in pimp my ride wasn't the biggest? That jerk lied to us! Sounds pretty cool, wish you were able to sneak in a camera.

Yeah no popularity contests here, well except for the "reputation" feature... Voting on an individual post might muddy the forums, but voting on a thread as a whole for its value might be useful in bringing relevant knowledge to the top of searches etc., although in that case new content would have to struggle to compete with old stickies. The mods are pretty good about sending the bs to the tool shed though, so I say it's fine as is. That said, I still wish we could create threads directly in the tool shed and save the mods some trouble, also being able to post derogatory satire on threads already sent to the tool shed would be nice, some of them are just hilarious.

I'm sure it fits unless it's listed wrong. They make a hub specific to the car and interchangeable to several different wheels. Grant has maybe three different style hubs to go with all their wheels for example, you just have to match them when you order. But yeah that wheel does seem small. My wheel is 14.5" and it seems just right to me, the gauges fit pretty snug in that window and much bigger would restrict leg movement (although it isn't very offset.) I don't know much about brand names but is that a knockoff or the original? I know grant wheels are made to look somewhat like others, but the good thing is with any basic shape there are many subtle variants to choose from. http://www.grantproducts.com/products/view/18/

Being able to "vote up" ain't cutting it for ya?

I'm not saying Datsun put in SU carbs specifically to make the z an economy car. I'm sure there were a variety of reasons, some of which you probably already answered ("how simple the design is and how well they work"). But it is that simplicity that makes them fairly economical. If they were inefficient I doubt they would be around at all, that is to say I'm sure those engineers didn't decide to go with SU's because they thought it was the most powerful option...

No point in arguing that one, you completely contradicted yourself there... Besides you guys are misguidedly exchanging VE with power. I never said a single holley would be more efficient than two SU's, in fact I basically said the opposite ("used for fuel economy"). However, it's fairly common knowledge that the achilles' heel of SU carbs is throttle response. Are you saying that the SAE rating is altogether incorrect or that the 170 is a gross rating as opposed to net? I'm not even sure what's on topic anymore. I thought the question was about simple numbers... "any idea how much better it should perform from a stock engine. When people ask me how much power it has I usually say 'I'm probably lucky if I have 120hp.'" But if you don't care about numbers then all that's left is to drive the thing and feel how much power it has.

Get these, then sell them to me for half whatever you paid. 2 X MSD DIS 4 6 X MSD Blaster SS Coil

In stock new form they were 170hp or so, and I can only speculate that a holley 390 would be a significant improvement on the SU's because they were mostly used for fuel economy. That said, if it's seriously worn out or running like crap then who knows. Sheer numbers aren't important anyway and can be very misleading. If you're really pressed for a number but don't want to spend the money on a dyno run you can always do a 1/4 mile and put the time into an hp calculator to get an idea (purely theoretical).

Seriously, and it's common knowledge that you get more money selling one by one, why all or nothing?? They look like they've already been parted out mostly too, so why quit now? That said, I don't think they would be worth $1000 dollars each even if sold separately considering they're mostly stripped. Someone should call and go see what all the fuss is about. Also is it just me or is that photo fake as hell?

To the source!

Rust.

The first 1/3 of the show is the introduction, just saying.

I wonder if you could get it rebalanced if that is the only issue and cause for upgrading.

Yeah it would definitely make for a cleaner engine bay and less resistance than stacking two separate units.

I don't know about alternative, but perhaps supplement? Fuel conducts heat pretty well after all.

I'd sell you mine for cheap but I tried to lathe off the a/c pulley. It didn't work out. You might want to just break off that piece that's already cracked most of the way through before it goes flying off into something important.

To paraphrase the way many have put it, a proper cooling system is a whole package, not just a really efficient radiator. And yes, a high tech system could be very expensive and only worth doing if you're actually having heat problems already. I guess you could just run 11 different radiators throughout the vehicle like the geniuses at volkswagen... If the second pass being too cool to give off much heat is the problem then I'd say we're in pretty great shape. I've never really considered the restrictions to be a possible issue though. It seems that a clean radiator of that size would be pretty free flowing. Do any manufacturers offer a core to outlet size ratio? I wouldn't be surprised if sum of the area of all the vanes is actually greater than the inlet itself even on a multipass. A combination of two heat exchangers in one?? The core has to be twice as thick just to be as efficient as the alternative (which it looks like it is). But how well does it cool the water if the hotter oil is going through the same core? It seems that relatively the oil would run cooler at the expense of the coolant running hotter, not that it's a bad trade. Has no one mentioned a fuel/oil exchanger yet?

I'd probably have to beef up the chassis a little bit first. " The Wartsila-Sulzer RTA96-C turbocharged two-stroke diesel engine is the most powerful and most efficient prime-mover in the world today. The Aioi Works of Japan 's Diesel United, Ltd built the first engines and is where some of these pictures were taken. It is available in 6 through 14 cylinder versions, all are inline engines. These engines were designed primarily for very large container ships. Ship owners like a single engine/single propeller design and the new generation of larger container ships needed a bigger engine to propel them. The cylinder bore is just under 38" and the stroke is just over 98". Each cylinder displaces 111,143 cubic inches (1820 liters) and produces 7780 horsepower. Total displacement comes out to 1,556,002 cubic inches (25,480 liters) for the fourteen cylinder version. Some more facts on the 14 cylinder version: Total engine weight: 2300 tons (The crankshaft alone weighs 300 tons). Length: 89 feet Height: 44 feet Maximum power: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm Fuel consumption at maximum power is 0.278 lbs per hp per hour (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption). Fuel consumption at maximum economy is 0.260 lbs/hp/hour. At maximum economy the engine exceeds 50% thermal efficiency. That is, more than 50% of the energy in the fuel in converted to motion. For comparison, most automotive and small aircraft engines have BSFC figures in the 0.40-0.60 lbs/hp/hr range and 25-30% thermal efficiency range. Even at its most efficient power setting, the big 14 consumes 1,660 gallons of heavy fuel oil per hour. A cross section of the RTA96C: The internals of this engine are a bit different than most automotive engines. The top of the connecting rod is not attached directly to the piston. The top of the connecting rod attaches to a "crosshead" which rides in guide channels. A long piston rod then connects the crosshead to the piston. I assume this is done so the sideways forces produced by the connecting rod are absorbed by the crosshead and not by the piston. Those sideways forces are what makes the cylinders in an auto engine get oval-shaped over time. These guys are installing the "thin-shell" bearings. Crank and rod journals are 38" in diameter and 16" wide. The crankshaft sitting in the block (also known as a "gondola-style" bedplate). This is a 10 cylinder version. Note the steps by each crank throw that lead down into the crankcase. A piston and piston rod assembly. The piston is at the top. The large square plate at the bottom is where the whole assembly attaches to the crosshead. Some pistons and piston rods: The "spikes" on the piston rods are hollow tubes that go into the holes you can see on the bottom of the pistons (top picture) and inject oil into the inside of the piston which keeps the top of the piston from overheating. Some high-performance auto engines have a similar feature where an oil squirter nozzle squirts oil onto the bottom of the piston. The cylinder deck (10 cylinder version). Cylinder liners are die-cast ductile cast iron. Look at the size of those head studs! The first completed 12 cylinder engine: "

Boom roasted.

I like the chassis mods. Simple, effective. Although strange that so much material was taken out of the tranny post for the speed sensor, I just beat the corner in a little with a small hammer. Those front addons probably cost as much as my whole engine, will sure look sexy though.

That seems like a pretty good price on such a light fly! How does the rb20 work with the rb25? I'm wondering why it is lighter than the one they sell specifically for the rb25. I'll also be curious how the 6-puck clutch drives, I currently have a milder act clutch (300zx).