getoffmyinternet

I'm not crazy about the ones with sharp corners, and the plastic ones are just too bulky looking.

Yeah I usually try to crash into the loser too. Looks like he even tried to do that "I don't know what's wrong with this thing" look over as he got up. Ha!

Nissan Academy??

Anyone who clicks "again?" should be autobanned from the internet as a whole.

gt4 had both those cars. Wish there was an engine swap option for them. PS I would probably destroy that seat with road rage.

Everyone and their mother lists something on ebay with a ridiculous reserve. Sometimes they put for sale locally in the ad. Sometimes they want people to push the limit or start a bidding war and just second chance the highest bidder at the end. Sometimes they have a friend bid and bump up the price. Sometimes they bid really high on their own item to make another one of theirs seem more valuable. I wouldn't worry about being unethical selling on ebay... but if you're at it you might as well set the reserve at a price you think is good, and if it actually sells then all the better. You can always set it a little high the first time, one relist is free. It seems to me that having a reserve though makes people less inclined to bid seriously because they don't take the seller seriously (as in they figure the reserve is too high to be worth the effort anyway); perhaps it's just me. Either way you still have to pay the listing fee so keep that in mind if you're just experimenting. That $30 primer job added hundreds to the value. Some upgrades are definitely worth it. I think donald trump always gives an analogy about buying a dirty car, giving it a $5 car wash, and reselling it for $100 more. Although at the opposite end of the spectrum, maintenance type items don't really add much of anything. Some people think they can resell their car for how much they paid for it plus all the money they put into fixing it up after it broke down (Yes, I actually know someone like that.). A brand new shiny name brand alternator with lightning bolts and chrome accents is about as valuable as a 40 year old fully functioning stock one. Even customizations are only a good selling point to that one guy that has the same tastes as you, in fact many customizations make a car worth less (just look at those tilt hood corvettes that people can't even seem to get rid of). I think that's why it seems so difficult to put a price tag on a car such as these. There's a guy at work that always kept asking if I would sell him my z and when he found out it had a jdm engine he said nevermind. Basically, while the value might very well have gone up, the target audience certainly narrowed. Once you get a fair price in mind, don't let lowballers discourage you, hold out as long as you can, and publicize it as much as possible so you're sure to find that one guy that loves rusty primered sunroofs, lest you submit to selling it short.

One more thing I need opinions on! Now I'm debating if I should just fill in the ash tray and fuse cover. Will most people want to get rid of it anyway, or keep the console more original? On one hand, deleting both holes would be easiest and they can always be cut out afterward if needed, but they won't look as nice without a flange. Perhaps most people like having an ash tray anyway to use as a coin box or something anyway. The fuse box could be moved however, and I noticed some people would be better off with that part flat anyway because they mount extra gauges/switches instead. What do you guys think? Option 1: Delete the ash tray and/or the fuse box door. Leave it up to the buyers to decide if they want to open it back up. Option 2: Keep just the ash tray hole, delete the fuse door. Option 3: Keep the fuse door hole, make an optional cover plate to delete it or allow for installation of accessories. We all want to keep the trays in the back of the console right? I know it's fairly popular to buy an msa style armrest/cupholder attachment and the trays are kind of nice for storage.

That sounds more like a one-off, I don't know if it's something very many people would be into, but I'll consider it. Today I'm filling screw holes (with dimples for location) and deleting the chrome trim in my old center console so it will be the final shape, getting it ready for primer to fill the leather pattern. Then plug the hollow parts and one last coat of paint before I mount it and pop a mold. It's gonna be a while though, the console is probably the trickiest mold to make (the final part being even more interesting to lay up). I put on what I think will be the last coat of frosting to my wheel cake as well as a fillet on the base. Then sand it smooth and paint it several coats. Should be an easy layup after that. Finally mounting the dome light trim to a board. I'll have to prep the foam and add fillets before popping a mold. It's not a very glamorous piece to be in cf, but probably the easiest of the interior panels to make so it's a good starter to making a full set.

If only we could see it in person to know whether it's just the lighting. But seeing as how the quote on the vanity plate cover is bleeped, as well as the registration year, there's not much hope. Our only clue is that it was registered in March, hmmmmmm...

I've always thought about turning my garage into dexter's table. How is it coming out? They say the gun is like 90% of it, and devilbiss is the tihs.

I was thinking wow that's pretentious that they're calling it "true" red, but then, well there you go. Why is it that red is the worst color in terms of endurance?

The haynes is very simplistic, more like a pictoral diagram than an actual one (and my wires are all different colors than what it says) but if you work through it enough it should get you to the same conclusion. The only thing that really bothered me was when a wire goes to a "combo unit" or something like that. Like on the speedo, the wires that go to it don't even look like they actually do anything according to that diagram. I haven't found anything better though. The wiring of the car is almost simple enough just to figure it out without a diagram, no? The hardest part is actually finding the wires. For aftermarket stuff like door locks, you'd need the installation manual for that unit anyway. Wish I could be more help.

My god, we've completely lost our sense of humor due to a personal vendetta against a perfect stranger over the internet.

Iphone has a couple apps like that too, can't remember the names. I downloaded one because it had a feature where it guessed your horsepower based on acceleration and did "1/4 mile times", not very accurate but fun to play with. The apps were free but you have to buy the special odb2 adapter specifically for their app to run diagnostics.

I baked a cake today! I know it's the least requested part right now, but it's the one that I actually need for my sound system to be complete again. I did look into the steering column cover a little more though. I don't think it will be that hard to make. It's an odd shape but at least it's small. And I sourced some cheap standoffs that I can bond to one side so that it can be screwed together just like the plastic one. They're not floating though, so it will have to be fairly precise.

I dunno, I think he's on to something. The piping after the cooler is significantly shorter, perhaps like a header type of setup so that it's as long as the other side? Extra 1.25yd of cooling! Leave it to a hybridz member to be thinking about power upgrades meanwhile the car doesn't even start Would a standalone really benefit the L6? I'm not sure what the limitations are, seems like they are so simplistic that most of it is le PS How about more pics of the car, namely the custom grille which I think I like but can't visualize. He doesn't need to start the car, just admire it! But where will the rats sleep?? A loose battery makes life interesting, live on the edge! Agreed, make it longer (what she said)! Everyone is ready for 12psi. Facetious = WIN

What's so special about a volvo? Seems like any car will take quite a beating if hit just right. They may not all blow up if rear-ended, but still... The only thing I'm worried about is being T-boned right in the door, not much room to give there. But this fear isn't limited to z cars, I've seen plenty of late model cars instantly become super-compacts. If airbags equate to safety then good luck with your classic car interest. Small cars might have less to work with though; I would feel less safe in a mini cooper, airbags or not. Obviously roll cages etc. help any car or people wouldn't be using them. The character in deathproof seemed to make out alright. Well, up until the baseball bat. I've heard, and am wondering how true this is, that unibodies are inherently safer than body on frame. My thought is that the entire care becomes part of the structural integrity and rigidity as opposed to most of the strength being in the frame under the car where it can't really help you any.

Yeah a-pillar pods are only ricer if they consist of nonfunctional boost gauges. I don't personally think they are very aesthetic but that's me. The only problem is that most of the interior parts seem to not be interchangeable. 240,260,280 all have slight variations. Some things like the dome light panel and tail panel look a little different but I think they can be swapped though. Do you guys know if the steering cover is or not? What's a half center hump cover? You mean a piece that replaces the center console and heater panel?

Project Mayhem! Before, so good so far. After, not so much. I was trying to wax in the spare tire well and glass a subwoofer box that had just enough room for carpet and fit snug, but, well, I think the draft angle is too high for the sheet wax to work. At least sealing it didn't work out all that well to say the least. Perhaps a high quality spray sealer would work but I just don't want to deal with all that again. It was either do it like this or cut the metal in half and make it a two piece mold, or fill the whole thing with plaster and make one really heavy male mold instead (but I'd still have the hurdle of part thickness). I even thought I could just build up the inside of the well with some heavy cloth and not even separate it, just use it to set the proper thickness (or if I can separate it add even more cloth to the backside and have a nice glass tool, but it would need A LOT of glass and resin). Besides a male mold is just so much better all around, and it doesn't really matter what the surface looks like considering it's going in a hole. I think I spent way too much time being a perfectionist and worrying about making the part too big so it wouldn't fit or would be too tight (or wouldn't be able to carpet it and it would rattle). It really doesn't make much sense to spend all that time making it the perfect size when I could just build a buck out of foam to roughly the right size less 1/4" or so and lay up on top of it. That way it can be carpeted and will still have a little fudge factor room all the way around. Who cares if it's a perfect fit, right? I'll still put a flange on it so that it can be screwed down to the deck. There would be plenty of space inside regardless. My sub only asks for a little over a foot, and this is probably at least 2.5. Mounting depth would be an issue for any large sub for a box that fits in that hole though. If someone needed an extra inch to fit the sub of their dreams, a custom top could be designed to bubble up a little and maybe even angle the sub forward. I really like the pioneer shallow mount though, and it really kicks. If you wanted to get weird with it 2 of their 10" subs would fit perfectly and the box could be ported or bandpass with the perfect volume and be quite deafening. Both the 10" and 12" are 1500W, but the 12" has a little more range, and the 8" is just too small for this much space, although three of those would be quite hilarious. Oh, so many projects, so frustrating. I keep bouncing back and forth between them not really seeing any results yet.

Man I wish I had roads like that. P.S. The black box is actually the only box that isn't black.

My apologies, I meant that the break in period is 500 hours, but mineral oil is used for up to the first 50 depending on the engine and oil consumption. Going straight to AD would greatly increase the break in time though, which is by far the most unsafe time to be flying. And yes, I assure you that straight mineral oil will not carry away the particulates nor will it break up deposits, that's why we have so many additives in our high performance oils, if the crude stuff did the job so well, we would just use that all the time! And you better believe that mineral oil will oxidize and sludge readily. Ashless Dispersant is so named for a reason. It's not the same as a detergent oil which can form deposits, and it does keep sludge from forming, but it is specifically designed to carry any deposits back to the filter! Turbines are a completely different animal altogether because of the extreme demands of the oil including temperature and pressure. All turbine oils are very low viscosity synthetics. I'm not familiar with preheaters or 'slow-rolls' on turbines however. If you live in the arctic and you don't park your car inside your igloo, get an oil dilution system. If not, you shouldn't have a problem so long as you use the proper oil grade.

I bet the only reason they do it is because of the tolerances. If you don't have to, why bother? Unless it's a cold weather situation. It's like you said, you want it to wear at first, I don't know if there's really a wrong way to do it. In an airplane you would purposely use straight mineral oil for the first 500 hours because you want particulates to be held in suspension and grind away at the cylinders/rings, then you switch to the good stuff. They also have oil heaters, I don't know if a block heater would be ideal. It seems like if you had the engine at running temp with cold oil you could be shock cooling and possibly damage the engine like if you were to pour cold water into your radiator after it overheated. I haven't experienced it first hand though.

I've heard of a lot of people doing that. Also running the coolant through an ice chest...

Awesome. Yeah I saw a lot of panteras and such on there. A lot of hummer/land rovers too. And would a sports car with a minivan door ever take I wonder. I still see a million concepts like the boga and esr, they're just dying to make those cars! I think my favorite name is "Super Heavy Dumptruck." I like the figaro, although that car actually came to fruition. But not to the US It's a viper! It's a camaro! It's a... miata? Oh how the world would have been different if this had gone to production. It's probably still FWD These aren't the droids we're looking for.