getoffmyinternet

No... pm me when it's out and I'll try to get down there and take a look

Nobody has the heater panel? What about the 1973 version with the illumination?

Rule violations! Watch out we're gonna have to confiscate something.

IMO if you want the 75 bucks, you remove the window. as for the panel I would have to cut it for a radio anyway so as long as it's tastefully done. Just the panel itself, send a pic to establish the quality.

Sounds like you should use this car as a donor for some other car.

Just bought a center console, thanks anyway guys I'm looking for the glass with horizontal lines, WORKING. I picked up one last week that does not work... The heater panel consists of the center piece between the console and the dash, has heater controls, map light, and hole for the stereo. I've had two people so far say they have one but never got back to me. What gives? Please snap a pic and pm it if you have one.

Isn't that always the plan?

Didn't realize there were so many out there! A&P as of January, still looking for a job :/

If you can hear the leak, or where specifically it's coming from. Besides there's always some leak, the point of the gauge is to see how significant/negligible. I would think smoke alone at a certain rpm range would not be a leak but an a/f ratio problem, but if there is a leak that bad you should also be burning a good amount of oil. That said, 90 is obviously bad, but it could just as well be the valves. Also try running the engine for half hour and doing the test on 5 again, and you could try tapping the valves a few times between tests to see if it changes. If the valve seats or sleeves leak that much it will probably be black under the cover with again increased oil consumption. There's probably a combination of discrepancies.

Bought the csm skins here and attached them to the old metal and riveted with new window felts

Still need a center console and heater panel, also interested in any interior trim panels

I was gonna say looks like if you didn't include the wheels it could get 10k

Don't listen to J he photoshopped those flares on. Just kidding J! But seriously, total barn find

Oh yeah I was just kidding, I'm the one that emailed you the green one Cheers!

1500, what??

Definitely wouldn't want to use mine unless you're desperate, it's only somewhat soft on the eyes

Thanks for the writeup dood. SO much better now.

I saw this threadon mounting the autometer gauges into the stock pods and was blown away by how easy it turned out to be so the next day I set out to do mine and I'm very pleased with the results. These gauges are a little different than the ones most of the people in that thread and ones linked from it, I don't know if it's a pro-comp thing or autometer changed the way they make them, but basically my gauges don't have a tin metal face but a plastic one, and the guts aren't even screwed down, the whole thing just snaps together! Needless to say I was overzealous when I first uncrimped and the metal bezel off the front of my tach so it pulled the inside trim with it and broke one of the feet off so I had to jb-weld it back on. Also, the needle pops right off with the face and it's impossible to tell how to put it back on because from what I could tell it's just a little hole in the rubbery plastic that grips the triangle peg and there aren't any marks. I had to take it back apart a few times and reset the needle, which was the only real annoyance here. If you can be careful enough to trim the lip off the housing without removing the needle it will surely save time. I assume it's on target because when the gauge first starts up it pegs at mid range and the needle is dead on 80, but I don't remember if it read exactly zero at a stop before or not. I want to say it was always a little off because the tach is exactly the same way at zero but is right on 1K at idle as it was before. I just used a box cutter and whittled away at it, the plastic is fairly soft. The interior trim is harder to cut down because it wants to move around on you and if it's any larger than the housing it will make installing the gauge a pain. Either way it stays in very tight and you don't even have to glue it or anything, so removing it in the future will be painless. I plan to do so to install led's for the turn signals on the tach and the hi-beam and park brake on the speedo, if not try to cut out the shapes for the stock gauge light bits without ruining the whole thing. The button on the speedo was a slight complication, I don't have any plexi drill bits, and the angle can make it want to slip and make a sexy scrape all over the glass. I assembled the pod and put it straight up to get the angle right, started with a tiny bit and got it lined up right, but again in my zeal I tried to final size it and it chipped a little. Not too bad though, the glass wasn't exactly perfect to begin with. In the future it's probably best to just ream it all the way out from the pilot with a file or, I suppose, a ream... For the button itself I drilled a tiny hole in the end and stuck a length of welding rod in it and jb-welded it on, then painted black. Yeah, I was in a bit of a hurry, but again it worked and blends in pretty well. After I put the whole thing together I just clipped it to length and put the rubber end on with a bit of Goop (that's literally what it's called). You can barely see the way the button tapers down inside the gauge from the angle the final shot was taken, but it occurs pretty much right where it comes through the face and the added rod is two inches or so. Aside from the aesthetics of using the stock pod as well as the gauges being more sunken in which is just plain cool, the added depth caused significantly less glare on my side window as seen bellow, or rather not seen, as opposed to the one not in a pod. In the first night pic you can see that the small tick marks don't show up all that well because the trim inside the pod has a little lip that hides the guts of the stock gauge, but that was easily remedied by taking a flap wheel to it and painting the whole thing flat black.

I saw this yesterday and was like "I'm doing this." Yeah thought it would be harder, but today I did the tach in like 2 hours and it looks really nice. When I first put them in I thought I might try to use the pods later on because I didn't care for the silver trim but then was like meh they look pretty good the way they are until I saw your pic. I now think it is a must for anyone with aftermarket gauges. Not to mention the fact that it makes securing them down easier, plus being sunk in more not only looks cooler but causes significantly less glare on my side window when the lights are on. I'm using cobalt gauges and they seem a newer or perhaps just different design than yours, I'll be posting a few pics in my own thread later this week.

Perhaps it's the "very aggressive" part? But seriously The r180 u-joint doesn't seem very beefy. When I did the r200 swap I was going to use the one that came with it and do a splice like yours but when I compared it to the end that comes out of the trans it felt like a major weak link so instead I had the ds shop use their own u-joint that just had a flange to fit the diff. I'm sure my car has more than its share of vibrations and whatnot (like a gearlash clunk every time I shift) but has lasted almost two years so far with no problems. It's only a 3.700 though if that makes a difference.

Seems like it would be better without any steel necessary (defeats the purpose imo) except for maybe subframe which is hard to get away from. I was dreaming of this for a long time, thinking of making sandwich doors for kicks as a start. Wouldn't wanna market those myself though (liability) What throws me is the bit about them being so customizable, how is that? Seems like the most expensive part is the tooling, if they make it to your spec for that price, then an off the shelf version would be pennies on the dollar by the time they made ten or so. Definitely see the point about the bolt ons, using steel doors etc would also defeat the purpose imo, the real weight savings comes when you go all out, the tub wouldn't be that much lighter (at least not enough to be worth it) alone, even if it was made of cf. They probably are fairly legit though if they have that much experience. I would go with nomex over foam any day though, it's a fraction of the weight. cf over foam wouldn't be ideal imo, it would probably weigh significantly less with even fg over hex. If you really want to save weight, the core is the first thing you upgrade (could even experiment with thicker core and less backing). With an entire body of cf and nomex you could probably just brake with the soles of your shoes Kevlar isn't really lighter than cf though (in fact lb for lb cf is heaviest of them all but in practice is lightest in tensile applications), and wouldn't make sense as the primary structure, it would be legit for the areas such as door skins that take impact however. An entire semimonocoque sandwich structure out of cf/nomex with kevlar skins. At least that's what I would do if I had infinite funds...

they're probably stronger than the stock seat mounts though right? They look a little obtrusive though, weird. Theoretically they would design that part of the car to be a rigid zone anyway so it's the last thing that would wanna crunch on you in an accident. Since the roll cage is all rigid it's gotta crunch somewhere, but it would take quite an impact. If it does get squeezed I suppose it would take the seat rails with it since they are integral. On the other hand, with the stock seat rails even if the rest of the structure stays rigid in that area the crunching roll cage is still gonna give you a bad time.

How stuck are we talking? destroy it beating it out stuck, or fused into a solid piece of steel stuck? Seems like you could start it by putting a nut on the end to protect the threads and going crazy on it with a hammer. A slide hammer might be better for pulling it out. obviously a press would be tops. If you can get a grip on the base with a good sized puller that should do it without damaging it though right?