getoffmyinternet

You sounded like you read up on the obx issues so I assumed you knew what an obx was to begin with. It's the china brand helical diffy center. IIRC a compatible center is very easy to find, because they are interchangeable with silvia r200s which are also 29 spline. It's probably harder to find a gear set that fits by itself. Easier to buy a whole diff and leech it, not many people are taking these out and even less are selling new ones that are compatible. That site is nice but it still doesn't tell you the spline counts. I'm pissed that the old wiki on the subject is no more and I didn't print it out or anything because it had every possible rear end and the spline counts for each. Sad day for me, but again if you're just swapping the gears it doesn't matter what the spline count on the victim is.

You're supposed to say "Challenge accepted"

It sounds like you need to learn a little more about how differentials work and those questions will answer themselves. The final ratio has nothing to do with the differential center, or the stub axles. If you buy an aftermarket center, it probably isn't going to come any ratio at all, you can either reuse your old gears or buy a set in any flavor you want. Whether the diff is compatible with your stubs or vice versa depends on which stubs you have, ie. how many teeth.

It CAN'T be done! Don't try.

The 240z tach isn't wired to the distributor directly, it's more like a gmr pickup where the wire passes through it and the field created by the pulses is measured. Electronically speaking, it shouldn't be any less accurate, nor should it lag. The lag/accuracy would have to be in the mechanical construction of the tach, and it seems that the 280z version hadn't changed much. People switch to the more conventional 280z tach because the old version is more finicky. I tried to get mine to work with my swap but couldn't for the life of me get it to pick up anything other than the original wiring. I ended up getting a universal tach and a gmr pickup, the headache just wasn't worth it. Either way, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I don't think the 260z tach is the same as the 240z even if the setup is the same. They did away with the funky signal input after the 240z.

I believe he's saying that the vinyl doesn't allow for much stretch during installation. The vinyl they use for seats etc. doesn't go around complex contours very well. That video was cool, at first I thought they were just making dash caps out of abs. I wish I had a thermo table that large.

How much are you planning on selling those for? I was thinking about doing it at one time (along with a whole list of other things I've yet to make time for) but then I saw that someone already does it and that was kind of a turn off. Although theirs aren't exactly cheap... If I were to do it though my intent would be to make it like factory, this guy doesn't offer a glove box version etc. http://www.pdkfabrication.com/Dash.htm

If you glass the whole top it doesn't hardly matter what's underneath, the glass isn't going to crack.

Glassing the whole thing has been documented plenty. Why fill it with bondo and not foam? Heavier, more expensive, more time consuming...

Ditto. I reread all my research 100 times before settling on a plan. Good luck.

That must be a mistake. I have 245 on a 9.5 and it looks more like his front tire.

I like them. They aren't amazing quality but zforce has stepped up his game since the initial complaints and the ones I got were pretty decent. I don't know if the regular flares have this problem, but when you mount them you kinda have to eyeball the crap out of them because they aren't quite symmetrical. Once they're on you can't really tell though. I get a lot of compliments and the rear looks pretty mean, not a sleeper anymore! That said, 295 might actually seem small inside a bamf, you'd have to use 1" spacers at least. I don't know if you could go much larger than 245 in the front either. If you're looking for a matched set then the bamf probably aren't for you because the rears are significantly wider than the front and no size will look good under both. The zg seem to be close to the same width front and rear however, so you could run the same size all the way around. Some have gotten away with 255 in the front with zg but they have to do a little trimming and run pretty tight suspension if I remember correctly. I'd play it safe with 245s all around on a 9.5" rim. I suppose you could get an offset ideal for the front and put a half inch spacer or whatever in the rear so that you can rotate the tires without dismounting. My biggest oversight is that I got a staggered package with directional tires so I have to get them dismounted no matter what. Plus the wider tires revealed that I have an alignment issue on one side so my front right wears super unevenly. :/

295 might be the limit. I know when I was looking for myself someone already had a thread about the widest tires they could fit under flares, it's gotta be here somewhere. I can only speculate because my 315s fit easily under the bamf which are supposedly 1-3/8" wider. Also, I have the stock suspension and no spacers needed. If you've got coilovers you should be able to tuck them in more.

I was trolling. There's basically an entire section here devoted to it...

Mine are 17x9.5 and the tires seem to fit quite nicely on the rim. 17x9 should be fine though. The rim width won't make much difference though (assuming you have the appropriate offset) because the overall width of the tire is essentially the same either way. If you don't want the tire to be taller, just get a lower aspect. 295/35 should be about the same diameter as 255/40 for example. I think 295 would fit much better on a 10" rim as well.

Nope, you'd be the first.

Yes.

Okay here's my version of a modified differential mount. It's been a long time coming because under hard acceleration the nose of the diff hops up enough for the driveshaft to graze the tunnel and kept getting worse and worse as the rubber in the diff mount started to shear. Only time will tell how well this works, but so far I'm happy with it. Basically I didn't want a solid mount because I've heard it would be unbearably noisy, and I didn't care for some of the other ideas out there in terms of how much they cost/how much effort goes into them. My design (I don't know if it's been done before or not but I haven't seen it) is pretty simple -- just bolt the diff directly to the crossmember, but isolate it with rubber spacers. The only complication is that the bolts don't line up with the center of the crossmember, so this has to be modified a little (easy enough to just hack away at it). I cut out parts of the crossmember that would interfere with where the bolts go through (very quick and dirty) and welded on some angle iron to make a wider mounting surface that the nose of the diff can actually sit on. Using the old rubber mount for reference, I drilled a locating hole in the angle iron and then measured out for the mounting holes and drilled those before welding it together. The entire process only took a few hours and I finished it all in one day. However, today I took it back off to cut off the excess of the angle iron that was hanging over because it's really close to the driveshaft (initially I just left it because I thought there would be plenty of clearance), so the end result isn't exactly like the picture, but you get the idea. Also, the bolts I ordered were a bit too long so I had to use some extra washers to keep the nuts on the threaded portion, but I've ordered shorter ones and intend to replace them next time around, as well has another set of the rubber spacers that are a little harder in case these don't last. I can hear a little more noise than before but it's completely bearable even with no music playing. All I'm really hearing is a little clunk when I shift (there's quite a bit of gear lash in this old diff) as well as the throwout bearing which I knew has been slowly going bad over the last year (I could head it before but now for whatever reason the noise is transmitting into the cabin a little more). The important thing is that now I can put the pedal to the metal no problem, and the whole thing only cost about $20 in hardware. If my design proves itself any anyone else is interested, I have extra hardware and could make more to sell at a reasonable rate (likely an improved design on this working prototype), I'd just have to get my hands on some crossmembers.

Wow, what kind of machine shop media blasts a bearing surface??

10" is too wide for a 245. That said, I have 245 fronts with no clearance issues on stock suspension, but I have the wider flares. They look like they fit just right to me, so I think the regular flares might then be too narrow.

A madman would.

You know it's getting close when the headlights are in.

Since weight and surface area are at odds, in theory the net force for four wheels is the same as one. You're distributing the load over a larger area, the net friction force is the same. Your formula doesn't seem correct though, how did you come up with 1.0 (looks like 1.0 lbs/in which I can only correlate to a spring rate). I'm not an expert on the subject but it looks like you're interchanging the coefficient of rolling friction as a simple constant with the rolling resistance as a distance. I don't think the force needed depends at on the radius of the tires. Unless I'm misunderstanding the variables you're using... Are you looking for F as in Force or are you looking for rolling resistance? If you're looking for rolling resistance I don't think it depends on the weight either. That said, I'm not sure how the rolling resistance helps get you to the force needed to overcome it (I'm not sure what the rolling resistance would be good for, it's probably over my head.). It seems to me that all you need to figure out how much force is used up by the tires is the coefficient of friction (which can be estimated) multiplied by the weight of the car. Again, the surface area or size of the tires doesn't make much difference.

The Sonic gets 40mpg and is cooler looking. Not a lot of power, but it's like 200lbs lighter than the Veloster and has a slightly better 0-60 time.

Civic - overpriced Corolla - grandmas car Focus - never been a fan Sonic - good first impression Veloster - I'll bite 3 - never been a fan Rio - ugly, unreliable Dart - sellout Fiesta - good first impression GTi - way overrated I kinda like the Sonic for practicality. The Fiesta is a bit more stylish but seems more cramped. The Veloster seems a bit over the top. The one good thing about the Veloster is that it has a better warranty, but it is significantly more expensive than the others (unless you get all the upgrades, the base Veloster does seem to come with more features). The base Sonic doesn't have many bells and whistles but it's comparably priced and the sky is the limit. The top trim is actually slightly more than the Veloster with about the same features, but for me a tie goes to Chevy over Hyundai even if the warranty is lower. All that said, I've yet to test drive either of the three, and wow factor is pretty critical.