getoffmyinternet

You can't shape a composite part, unless you mean you plan on a lot of sanding and filling. How much of a gap is there at the edges? If we're talking very slight misshape then it will probably flex enough to conform to the hatch when you install it, but too much flex could be a disaster. On the other hand if you install it and it's just floating there it will look plain silly. Be careful trying to force it though, the sheet metal in that area is pretty flimsy.

Why not just bolt it down and squeeze some black silicone in the crack if there is any? You're probably looking for sealant scrapers. Plastic spatulas with a knife edge generally used for removing silicone gaskets etc. without marring soft surfaces like aluminum.

Where is it headed? WHERE IS IT HEADED?? The answer better be something better than you're joining a mustang forum

Whatever happened to that wiki site that had a master list of all the differential specs for each model? I had it bookmarked but the link is broken, does this list still exist somewhere? It had everything from ring gear ratios to spline count, output type, lsd type, etc. for the z cars, silvias and so on. I found it quite handy when doing some parts shopping. PS if it refreshes anyone's memory I believe this was the link: http://zcarpartsindex.com/index.php?title=Differential_Listing

Perhaps a good embodiment of the saying "If it ain't broke, fix it till it is."

Sounds like its the "or any of the idle equipment hooked up" part.

It seems no two are created equal. I flipped the races on my CVs but still had trouble getting the right side in with the control arm free. I had to jack it up from the control arm itself and then was barely able to wiggle it in place. Doesn't seem to bind though as long as there's weight on the wheels, which sounds like the exact opposite of your problem.

So the grass IS always greener on the other side! We're sending you L6s and you're sending us RBs

You guys are confusing half [drive]shafts with the stub [axles]. I haven't heard the drive shafts called axles until now, or perhaps I haven't been paying attention? I believe 240z=260z. Also just to add to the confusion, from beta motorsports: If you don't want them to bottom out, get CVs or If this doesn't concern you, just get the following:

The SUs may have been instituted for economy and less desired for racing because their design lacks throttle response, but overall they're quite free flowing and perfectly capable of that kind of power in good hands. Tuning them shouldn't be too difficult, but they aren't quite like carbs you may be used to, all the information is out there. I have an old school book solely devoted to SU overhaul and tuning lying around somewhere. It's not like they have a thousand moving parts or anything. On the other hand, EFI is nice... Sorry I wasn't any help.

This thread? It's got all that.

Why does everyone pay for things in advance? Wouldn't sit right with me at all. I've bought several things from him and made a quick exchange but it was all COD. I don't think he does any of the welding himself, he just requisitions it. Perhaps he's in over his head.

I'm also worried about all those plastic gears, but is there a reasonable alternative? Everything is made of plastic these days. Has anyone bought the kit from MSA? Looks like it might be the same exact thing marked up. Also FWIW: "Shipping Weight: 10.00 pounds"

Look up any given width tire and it will show a recommended rim width. The aspect is irrelevant.

Yes.

There is really no correlation between sound and power, just go by the feel when you stomp on it, ie. where the dead spots are. Do you have the dyno printout? Live readings of fuel flow etc would be very useful. I don't know what typical timing is for those, but 10 strikes me as way too low. I'm thinking at least 15 to 20, but I'm not sure. Nothing wrong with downdraft webers. I don't have practical experience so perhaps someone will step in, but my impression is that they can be great for performance but are more finicky than others and need to be precisely tuned to live up to their potential. You get what you pay for type of thing, great if tuned right, otherwise a nightmare (in other words it doesn't "just work") The most negative things I've heard all have to do with altitude sensitivity. They also have to be tuned to each other. On my old SUs someone just flew by the seat of his pants and got the engine running seemingly normal by messing with everything independently, the result being that one carb was set way too rich and on the other you basically couldn't get it off choke. Miraculously the engine sounded fine, but as expected, no real power.

Don't think so. I'm under the impression he bought the only molds from the original maker. Any other flares wider than regular zg's seem to be exclusively the mold in type.

Especially since it's a non-smoker.

More like he's looking for the other man whose treasure that is.

Just put a tag at the top of everything on this forum saying "At Your Own Risk, Do Your Own Research"

I think he's asking way too much for the amount of work that has to go into them. You'd barely break even after parting out the first half and it would take three years to turn any kind of profit.

You know what else really grinds my gears? You America.

I'm all over the lighter colors (almost pastel type) like lime green and whatnot. Not real crazy about green green though, it almost looks like it should glow in the dark. If it actually does though, awesome.

Yeah it's too close. PVC will surely melt.