Naptown Dave

Matt I thought you found Jesus and gave up on cars!

Just the flash and bang when you strike the arc. I did the same with mine with a thick rubber isolator but I was more concerned with the pump noise than vibration causing the pump to fail. I would imagine if your inlet and outlet lines aren't in a bind with the pump it should be no different than mounting anywhere else. I can hear it run at idle and cruise but it's not a big deal. I've ran the tank down far enough to hear the pump cavitate while pulling away at an incline so it's kind of a fuel dummy light.

Looks like a pretty clean car to start with. The valve that controls the heater core is a usual suspect for an in car coolant leak, I used one from an older bronco and just control it manually. The costs for an LS swap do add up but it is a monster even in stock form.

Looks like a pretty clean car to start with. The valve that controls the heater core is a usual suspect for an in car coolant leak, I used one from an older bronco and just control it manually. The costs for an LS swap do add up but it is a monster even in stock form.

While most doomsday prepers are hoarding food and guns Keith is focusing on rear ends!

I have a B&M shifter and I need to put it, a stout vice, a torch and bfh together to get it back a little. I just got a rubber inner boot from Summit but I need to find a leather one to dress it up and fit the console still.

You might want to post that question in the Gen III/IV section, most of us tend to hang out there. My guess is there may be issues with the DBW setup due to the lack of traction control sensors but I'm sure someone has figured that out somewhere. It may just be cost vs benefits too?

RebekahZ gave me the tip for the added O2 bungs, gotta give the credit. I think the local muffler place charged me like 4$ for two bungs and I got plugs at autozone.

Double check this but I think the only difference on the O2 is the cable length. You might want to add additional O2 bungs for tuning also.

I'm sure there is some kind of mathematical constant that explains the space to crap ratio. SqFt x .5 x junk = shop space So you alway have half the space for the stuff you have!

You may want to look into the torque capacity of the T5 also. Personally I'd hate to put the effort ($) into the conversion parts just to lose 3rd gear in six months. Maybe figure out the costs of the adaptors and see if a T56 doesn't make more sense?

Right NZ! I mostly wanted to get a rough comparison on hp/tq on similar builds, the real answer will come when I get a proper tune. Hopefully I will have to be a bit careful on the throttle to keep it hooked up. Putting the correct MAF and IAT feel like a step in the right direction.

I guess in my push to get done I ignored the fact that I have a 85mm truck MAF and the ECU is still on factory tune. I did a little digging in the LS site and it seems an uncalibrated MAF and IAT will cause the ECU to add fuel and pull timing to safeguard the engine. On my way home from work I picked up a new stock MAF and IAT and it made a considerable difference, much chrisper and it comes on at 3500 instead of falling off. I also had a box sitting on my front porch from TSP so I'm pretty excited about getting that cam in and my tune on. We'll see if that tests those 275s a little more.

Add a two post lift and that picture may bring a tear to my eye!

That's what I was looking for Phantom, I guess we'll see what the cam and dyno tune bring. Mine won't break loose with a quick but smooth hit on the throttle from a rolling idle in first.

The louvered one for sure

I may get sent to the Tool Shed for this one but here goes. I just crossed the magical 500 mile mark on my new clutch so I've been driving a little more aggressively on my new build. Without abusing the left pedal my car just digs and launches, I expected a little more tire smoke to be generated. I'm running an LS6, T56 with 3.54 HLSD rear and BFG SportComp 2s 17R 275s the engine is as of yet untuned. Granted there are so many variables even with similar builds I don't expect a definitive answer but just a reality check, is my motor down on power or is the rubber that sticky? I have a TSP 228R on order and dyno tune scheduled for the end of the month and I imagine that and some test and tune nights at the strip will answer my question but I want your guys 2 cents.

I've found that rockauto is hard to beat for small parts (sensors, plugs, etc) but shipping eats up the savings on bigger/heavier stuff. I think I have about $750 in my Autometer gauges but a good chunk of that was the GPS speedo. I didn't have a really good handle on how to interface/calibrate the speedo to the trans and wanted a plug n play for once! The Speedhuts look really nice though

Ha it's getting down to the 'death by a thousand cuts'! That's a good sign!

10 it is! I built my secondary fuse/relay panel from a Bussman micro panel, I don't even want to know what your setup cost because I probably saved like $10 doing it myself lol!

There should be a red wire from pin 15 on the red ECM connector, that is the alternator exciter. The white wire at pin 10 on the red connector is the engine speed output. I used it for the signal to my Autometer tach. It bounces a little at idle but smooths out quickly. I think some guys have used a resistor to dampen the signal to stop the bounce but it's not enough for me to worry about. Do you have a relay setup for the fan and fuel pump? I wired in an OBD port today so I had my pinout paperwork out for easy reference:)

Man I wish I could have come out!

I would suggest urethane bushings, new ball joints, make sure your brakes are in good repair and get a decent set of tires. Finish your swap, drive it easy and upgrade as you can afford. Is that T-5 going to bolt up to your engine?

I considered rewiring my car but the harness wasn't in bad shape so I just replaced the fuse box with a Bussman blade type. I would say if you have the patience to do it right it can't hurt to replace the harnesses. Make sure you understand what is needed and not needed and the circuits that feed multiple items.

Are there no women in Finland? Do you guys not work?! Or are you just stuck in the shop half the year? Seriously I've seen some great builds come out of the Nordic regions and this is yet another. Great work, a real inspiration.