HowlerMonkey

Get that ecu, airflow meter, and EFI harness as well. Don't sweat the harness for the rest of the car but they do interact........but only ignition switch, a relay, fuel pump, and tach connection. I had only 15 minutes to remove a harness from a car and had to cut it off in a couple of places and was able to make it into a standalone harness that I still keep around today. Also.....get the coil and the other things bolted to the coil bracket.

I drove my turbocharged L24E for 50,000 miles and it did the same thing. Does your car have the N47 head? Does your setup use the trigger straight from the pickup coil or does it pick up the signal from the ignition module or are you using something other than the distributor for crank reference?

If you're running over 10psi with a stock L24E you might be running out of octane if you run 93.

The Z31 runs 3.9 with the 5 speed from the factory and I never noticed too high a rpm on highway but it does have 215/60 tires which does change things a bit. Many S130s ran 3.54 and I believe a few even ran the 3.36 but I could be mistaken.

Isn't the RB20 tranny a FS5W71 tranny? If so, you have dozens of choices for mechanical speedo drive and only a few if you want to use a sensor. If the car you are putting it into originally had a nissan digital dash, you might need a short speedo cable that goes to a pulse unit that mounts in the engine compartment and sends the signal to the digital speedo head. If your car has a nissan analog speedo of a certain year that uses a sensor, then you might need a sensor that screws to the speedo drive from a 1987-1989 300zx (analog dash car). If your car uses the later style of sensor on the tranny, you have many choices of sensor and gear sizes from the 240sx and possibly the nissan trucks and pathfinders that came with a FS5W71 family tranny.

Don't they already make a 16g or 20g with a t3 hot side which would bolt straight on?

I don't mess with that until I actually drive the car. You're also swapping that drivetrain over to a car that probably has different tire diameter than the car it came from. I would drive the car, see how far it is off, and then start with the speedo drive swaps.

Interesting..........might be a great deal. Looks like the owner has other things going on that don't allow him to finish it. Wheels put on quickly (directional tire wrong direction). Regardless of quality of craftsmanship, someone put a lot of care and cash into that car.

Those RX-4s have really small front brakes. From the fact that he's waiting 2 seconds between shifts for the revs to come down enough to shift tells me that the car had not too much preparation and possibly stock tiny brakes. RX-2 might have made that corner.

What you don't see is that the car has two points that push up into two rubber grommets at the bottom portion of the airflow meter bracket. This is the approximate configuration as installed in a the car.

Moved the engine back 10mm so I could replace the dangerous 1970 240z metal fan with a fan clutch out of a 240sx connected to a 280zx plastic fan blades. I first tried the clutch that I had out of a truck which is the same dimensions as the 240sx clutch but, as we all know, truck clutches transmit a lot more power to the fan which you reap as NOISE. I had to place the fan blades on the "engine side" of the fan clutch and use two washers per bolt to space it such that the fan was flush with the radiator side of the clutch. Centering was done by applying twisting pressure between the fan and the clutch to push the bolts against the holes.......which causes it to center itself. Drive the car every day and it drives like it was built by nissan.......and it's unbelievably quiet which attracts zero cop attention.

Then that is perfect. The 3.0 liter 300zx turbo or 1988 and 1989 use a T25 from the factory. With a t-28, you could probably bring it up close to 10 which is what I would limit myself to on the flattops.

I use this. Another benefit to this is when you stayed late at the dealership to work on your own car and forgot to get whatever fluids you needed before the parts department closed. It will pull a quart of atf out of a deep tank in 10 minutes.

Damn!! That car earns "best skyline in america" by a longshot.

This pic describes what I did once I found that both the warmup regulator and the idle air control valve were passing tons of air at all times. The hose that goes front to back does nothing but make both iac and warmup regulator do absolutely nothing since those leaking bastards have no place from which to draw but each other.....and they are subject to the exact same intake vacuum.....so no flow occurs. Sure plugs on the warmup regulator and iac valve would do the same thing but I had none at the time for this temporary solution. The other hose does flow and it functions exactly like the stock one. The reason for that cross shaped multi-nipple metal thingy is to give a filtered air source from which the devices will draw air.....nothing more.

I'm sure you could buy a cat from a Z31 or 280zx turbo from a person parting the car out. Most will still work if they aren't either burnt through or plugged. They are a lot more robust than the current cats made by manufacturers....but then again, they aren't as effective. Also.....if you take the car to a different inspector and whatever cat you have looks factory, who's to know that it isn't.

Sounds to me like either his idle air control actuator is stuck or is auxiliary air regulator are stuck. Another possibility is that strange sprung valve that goes between the intake manifold and the J tube. In checking these things, you will also probably find that the rubber hoses on that "metal spider" multi-hosebarb are cracked and leaking. I just pulled mine off and ran a hose (front back) between the auxiliary air regulator and the idle air control actutator as well as a hose from the intake valve mentioned above and the J tube. Problems solved....but I have no idle control............don't really need it even with an automatic tranny. I found both allowing air to pass. Oh.....that idle screw mentioned above..........good luck with that. I remove mine and replace them with one that is longer that has a hex head so I can have enough room to loosen the jamnut....and still adjust the idle stop screw. Most likely, you won't be able to move that screw and I've gotten around that in the past by opening the throttle all the way and bending the tang that the srew rides against. Care must be taken, though and it only takes a slight bit of bend to make a huge difference. If you do adjust idle throttle opening, you should check if the idle switch on the tps is adjusted properly.

Did the inspector's proceedure include revving it to 2000rpms for around 15 seconds before starting the test? 280zx turbos don't have a 02 sensor heater and extended idling can cause the cat and 02 sensor to cool off to the point that they don't do thier job. I'm a virginia emissions inspector and have seen inspectors fail people because of bad proceedure or purposely tipping in and letting off while keeping the mph within the window.

How long did the inspector have the car idling while waiting........or did he let it cool off for an appreciable amount of time?

Congratulations, you have an exception in which your pickup ports for the valving is not at the extreme lower end of the shock. Not every single shock made has it's ports in the same place relative to the fluid level. In addition to the nissan factory service manual I pictured earler, here is subaru's version of purging a strut. found in a subaru factory service manual....... http://techinfo.subaru.com/downloads/STRUT_MOUNT.pdf?pdf=STRUT_MOUNT.pdf I've read these exact same instructions contained within the boxes of factory shocks as well as popular aftermarket shocks and struts that I stocked in the mid-80s as well as in Nissan, Toyota, and Lexus factory service manuals. I have no problem with your disagreeing with me but I'm having trouble believing that the factory service manuals for multiple car marques are incorrect.

Someone showed his version at the supra forums but his actuator bracket seems to be too short for my liking and could transfer a bit too much heat to it.

The damper is filled with oil and left with an air (or gas) void. The valving intakes oil from the bottom of the shock. If the shock is cycled upside down, the air void can be pumped into the valving and net you a shock that does not damp properly....until purged. I purged the entire stock of koni, bilstein, boge, and controlle shocks we had in our warehouse at electrodyne in the mid 80s and have cut open enough "non serivicable, sealed" shocks as well as rebuilt OEM datsun shocks to know I am correct. I also used the shock dyno as well as cut open a strut insert at VOB nissan to win this argument in 1994 and am 12 wins vs 0 losses in this argument since 1985.

Compressing a shock upside down is fine. Extending it upside down is not. No strut/shock ever made is fully liquid filled. There has to be an air (or gas filled) void within the shock to deal with expansion of the oil as it goes from 50 degree temps in the fall to near 200 on a bumpy section of road. If there were no air void, then shocks would be blowing up from the thousands of PSI that a non-compressible liquid would exert as it's volume grew when temps came up. Turn a brand new shock over, pump it upside down, and you will hear this "air" gurgling through the valving along with the effect of losing damping. Now as far as 8641 series KONI shocks, they are low pressure gas meaning you should experience at least a weak amount of self extension after being compressed but it's nothing like a high pressure gas shock. If you don't have oil leaking, gas pressure loss should have minimal effect on damping since the pressurized gas exerts very upward pressure and SRGUNZ has already stated they do self extend after being compressed. What I've found with the 8641 series is that most owners use the adjustment knob to tighten them up the day they get them rather than use it to compensate for wear or adjust damping to balance a car since turning it fully tight nets you way too much damping. This overzealousness by the original installer will wear a shock out pretty quickly so.....if you've determined that the adjustment of all shocks are even, then you should have damping close to the same.

From my experiences, 300 degrees pan temperature is where you should expect things to start going south.