HowlerMonkey

True....the replacement parts are expensive. That might be why there are at least 6 locally in u-pull yards in west palm. My car requries a front sump engine....Hmmm..... Great work and I'm really surprised at the bore centers being where they are.

I ran a 1982 280zx ecu and airflow meter on my L24e when I turbocharged it. It ran fine with the stock boost and I drove the car 50,000 miles that way as a daily driver.

This also begs the question of putting the entire mercedes engine into a nissan though that brings up other powertrain fitment issues.

The zx turbo ecu doesn't use the full throttle switch part.......only the idle switch. If the distance between the bolt holes is 49mm, then it's off of a VG30 up to around 1989 though the late california Z31s had position sensor harness and switch like the later VG30s and stanza throttle body that used the jecs sensor.. If the distance is around 65mm, then it fits a 280zx turbo and possibly the 280zx n/a.

OK....I finally looked at the ebay ad. It is for a TB45.....also fits TB42. It's a custom manifold.

The reason for changing to the distributor was for nissan's heading toward the sequential injection direction with little baby steps. The distributor in the 280zx proved the technology, the Z31 took it a step further by using a wider slot in the 120 degree wheel to tell the ecu which was cylinder 1, and eventually the 1990 M30 took the system to sequential for nissan single cam six cylinder engines though it's possible another single cam six got sequential before the M30 did outside of the united states. The furthest the engine management for nissan single cam engines has been taken is in the pathfinders/frontiers/quest ecus that add a true crank angle sensor that counts the 120 flywheel teeth but this signal is only for diagnostics and misfire data and not the general running of the car. There is no doubt the 1981 crank angle sensor is more exact but you won't be able to run a Z31 or later system that expects cylinder 1 to have a longer pulse. The sensor is actually 3 sensors in the same package. One has a discrete 120 degree signal and the other two sensors are on the same signal line but the pickup poles are mechanically spaced 1/2 a tooth off from each other which nets you 180 pulses per crankshaft revolution from a 90 tooth pulley. Knowing this, you could conceivably build a 1981 style CAS with three discreet sensors on a single bracket if you get the spacing correct. Part number on mine is 23731-V0801 Engine fits in a F31 chassis fine and the engine bay looks identical to R31 except for it being left hand drive.

Cam timing should not throw off his timing light findings on the front pulley. I would use a straw or wooden chopstick stuck into the spark plug hole in #1 and determine tdc that way...then look at the pulley and see if the marks are close.

It actually uses a RE4R01 tranny but I swapped the vg30 for a L28et with built 3n71b. 3n71b came with mazda RX-2 through RX-7 and then 4n71b took over. I'm looking to build a bulletproof 4n71b from a RX-7, 300zx turbo or Starion (whichever has the 4 planet gearsets and more frictions) so I can run 4.10 and still get good mileage in overdrive with lockup.

"aftermarket".....meaning "non-oem". Since I have a bunch of 3n and 4n71b shifters and have used them on a variety of nissan cars, what I have found is that you will probably have to have a few different levers (tranny end) since every one of my shifters has a different lever length (from pivot point down to hole). Some tranny end levers also have a different offset cut into them which changes the orientation. On my M30 with 3n71b, I went through a bunch of levers from various jatco transmissions to match the throw on my stock M30 shifter and it's still off slightly. I my case, I either have to extend the tranny side lever or drill a hole further up my shifter end lever.

As mentioned above. There is gunk betweent the throttle plate and the body causing it to stick. The side benefit to cleaning the throttle body is your idle air control system doesn't have to add as much air.

Oil from the pump supplies the filter from the hole in front of the center hole. You can see the bump in the block from the galley that goes from front cover that goes straight toward the hole.........if you have the adapter off. This is why the bypass valve sits in the outer periphery.

Are you able to run the engine down to 750rpms to check timing and also have the throttle switch on the tps in the on position? If you're higher than that or the switch is off, you won't be able to set base timing. Now I'm pretty sure the pcm only advances timing if the switch is off or the rpms are too high so, if you cannot get 15 degrees with the screws in the middle (or close) then you are one tooth off. Are you sure the balancer rubber hasn't slipped causing the timing mark to show tdc when it is not actually there?

3n71b is normal forward valve body....unless you buy a performance valve body from a performance tranny supplier. Most aftermarket shifters are cable operated.

AVgas is also formulated for a low piston speed. May people only look at the octane number which is only a very small part of the equation. If you want good high octane gas that will give best power, try VP racing fuel's SR1. It makes more power on cars with below 10 to 1 compression ratio N/A than most any other fuel that tests as legal........at least at this time.....might change soon.

Most of the crazy octane requirements in normally aspirated aero engines are there because the engines run lower rpm ranges which makes them more susceptible to knock. Also.....the mixture is in the hands of the pilot and a higher octane will resist detonation better than a lower octane fuel when someone manages the mixture badly and runs it too lean with high map at low rpms. That is why you commonly see avgas with ratings such as 100/130 in that the first number is the octane when run very lean and the second is the octane when run rich. AVgas is also more consistent in it's vapor pressure with regard to density altitude changes. All of this goes toward ensuring engines are harder to blow up which keeps airplanes from dropping out of the sky.

When I worked at Z shop of miami, I didn't have a lift....I had jackstands.

I made the mistake of taking out the plastic boxes and paving the top with wood that and fitted 6x9s. Even stuffed, that area had a horrible mid bass hype that sounded just plain bad.

The S130 slicktops have an amazing amount of headroom but the one thing that worried me as a 6'5" guy was my shin (4 inches below knee) being against the stereo console while driving. I was always worried I would hit something hard enough for my shin to break the plastic and run into the knifelike metal behind it. Really my only real complaint with the S130 was that they gave you a taste of how awesome speakers reflecting off of the windshield sound but then compromised it by putting the "left" speaker to the right of the driver. (passengers got the good sound) Anybody who's driven a GM car with a nice set of front speakers knows the awesome stereo separation and "in your face" sound this setup gives you.

I am using a 280zx turbo (1981) resistor pack and it's only 6 ohms which has me wondering if my 2.6 ohm injectors and the resistors combined will eventually kill the injector drivers from overcurrent but.......so far I've had no troubles. I know the ecu expects to see 12 to 14 ohms and am also wondering if adding a bit of resistence to make my setup ohm out at that range would end up changing the opening speed of the injectors and affect my mixtures. I would do more searches on other makes as well as nissan concerning dropping resistors (yes you will need them in your case) and find out if possibly a higher resistence than the honda pack delivers would be better.

Funny you mention the timeline. I've noticed that both of my L engine (both injected though) have started experiencing vapor lock issues after a hot soak of about 10 minutes. This started in both cars at the same time and I can estimate it started about 11 months ago. I'm wondering if the gasoline blends were changed at that time. I'm in florida.

That might be a manifold for a SD33t.

The thing that affects high speed scariness the most on both the S30 and S130 is your toe settings.....at speed. I had a friend who took a pic of my s130 going past at 125mph which allowed me to study the attitude of the car at that speed. Then I went to the alignment rack and duplicated the attitude with strapping and jacking and performed an alignment. Though the car then made lots more noise in underground parking garages and turn in was a lot less crisp (from excessive toe in at low speed), it felt perfectly fine right up to the limiter on a 3.54 geared 280zx turbo with 215/60 tires (proabably over 135) even though I lacked a front spoiler........for that matter....the front valance. If you want good alignment at both high speeds and for ultimate turning, you really need to stiffen up the car to reduce attitude and ride height changes to minimize toe and camber changes through a wide range of conditions.

Probably means to differentiate his N47 from the early to mid 80s L24e N47 head that many here call "mn47".

Sweet...that monteverdi has A/C.

Hmmmmm.....does this also mean that the distributor shafts out of those engines will allow usage of the 1982/83 distributor on a L28?